HOG B8 custom Handle update!

I don't wanna sway you, but be Very careful with the brass.
It conducts heat like a mofo. Which if it gets too hot will ruin your epoxy.

Don't ask me how I know. I've had to remake a few handles.
Dip in water on every pass, if you are using a grinder.I
Filing is easier causing less heat, but it's slower.
Good Luck! :D
Thanks for the heads-up. I didn't think about the heat messing with the epoxy.
I haven't glued anything yet but I discovered how hot the brass gets just roughing it in. I'm planning on getting the handle really close to size and shape before I glue everything together.
 
Thanks for the heads-up. I didn't think about the heat messing with the epoxy.
I haven't glued anything yet but I discovered how hot the brass gets just roughing it in. I'm planning on getting the handle really close to size and shape before I glue everything together.

It's not just the profile to worry about.

All the heat from shaping your scales will get drawn into the brass which gets put into the glue
 
This is what all the parts look like, I have a frame that fits tight to the tang. I then have brass plates on each side (the holes are to allow room for the epoxy on the final assembly.
I then have several small stainless pins the go through the frame and brass and about 1/8" into the outside scales. I will epoxy each layer together and hand finish the final fit (Thanks to information from Crag The Brewer).
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Thank you for all the support. I'm going into this with the idea of learning and probably redoing it a few times but I have to say it's working out very well so far. My next challenge is getting the handle shaped for my hand. I love the older thicker Becker handle and the ASHBM. I hope to incorporate some of the coke bottle contours of these into my new handle. I obviously have allot of thickness to work with.

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Thank you for all the support. I'm going into this with the idea of learning and probably redoing it a few times but I have to say it's working out very well so far. My next challenge is getting the handle shaped for my hand. I love the older thicker Becker handle and the ASHBM. I hope to incorporate some of the coke bottle contours of these into my new handle. I obviously have allot of thickness to work with.

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Was the purpose of the metal liners to create a full tang under the micarta?
 
My idea was to reinforce the Micarta frame, it's really thin on the top side I'd you keep the handle at the top of the blade . I have not made any modifications to the original steel. I could have thinned out the top of the tang and made it easier but I wanted to work with everything as it t was originally made.
 
My idea was to reinforce the Micarta frame, it's really thin on the top side I'd you keep the handle at the top of the blade . I have not made any modifications to the original steel. I could have thinned out the top of the tang and made it easier but I wanted to work with everything as it t was originally made.

I don't think the brass will add any strength.
Do it for weight balance, if needed.
Do it for looks
Do it cause you like brass

Don't, do it for strength.
 
My idea was to reinforce the Micarta frame, it's really thin on the top side I'd you keep the handle at the top of the blade . I have not made any modifications to the original steel. I could have thinned out the top of the tang and made it easier but I wanted to work with everything as it t was originally made.

I think you have the right idea, in the way you reinforced it. Also, the extra weight you added to the rear brought the balance to a more neutral point. The HOG B8's are pretty forward weighted. Also, you created a pattern of production that makes it easier. You could almost make kits out of this and sell them, lol.
 
Thank you for all the support. I'm going into this with the idea of learning and probably redoing it a few times but I have to say it's working out very well so far. My next challenge is getting the handle shaped for my hand. I love the older thicker Becker handle and the ASHBM. I hope to incorporate some of the coke bottle contours of these into my new handle. I obviously have allot of thickness to work with.

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View attachment 2879539

View attachment 2879540
Didn't see it mentioned, but IIRC many makers will shape the bevels at the front of the bolsters before gluing the handle onto the tang. They do it by using the pins for alignment and clamping the scales together, then grinding that front area off-knife (then being careful to not alter it thereafter) because shaping the bolster fronts on-knife carries a threat of scratching up the ricasso area. Also, with the scales clamped face-to-face so to speak, it's apparently also easier to achieve symmetrical bevel angles/grinds.
Many thanks for the WIP pics & explanations of your process. Much appreciated!! Best of luck finishing up that bad boy.
 
Didn't see it mentioned, but IIRC many makers will shape the bevels at the front of the bolsters before gluing the handle onto the tang. They do it by using the pins for alignment and clamping the scales together, then grinding that front area off-knife (then being careful to not alter it thereafter) because shaping the bolster fronts on-knife carries a threat of scratching up the ricasso area. Also, with the scales clamped face-to-face so to speak, it's apparently also easier to achieve symmetrical bevel angles/grinds.
Many thanks for the WIP pics & explanations of your process. Much appreciated!! Best of luck finishing up that bad boy.
Exactly right. Shape the front of the handles before they get glued on. You can’t get to em after.

Also, I wouldn’t worry too much about the brass pins. They’ve been used a loooong time with no problems and I’ve used em myself.

Just glue up using good long cure epoxy (not the quick cure stuff) and sand to shape. Motorized or otherwise. It’ll be fine.

Looking great so far. Post lots more pics along the way! I’ve considered doing this same type of thing to my basic 9.
 
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