How do you sharpen your knife in survival situation?

Boys
cardboards aren't available in the jungle, or desert, or Ocean ...
You are mentally in Urban Jungle :^D
Question was and still is
what to use when you GOT NOTHING !?

I got one very old idea left,
use OTHER knife :^))
Patience and handjob may save the day :^)))
My original statement of "siliceous sand on a piece of perforated wood" stands. You'll fundamentally need either something that functions as an abrasive (a stone, loose grit of suitable hardness, or so on) or a sharp edge of a sufficient hardness to plough material from the bevel. If you can't find either o' those in your environment, first off I'm not sure what that environment is, but second of all you're straight up out of luck. If you can only find materials that are unsuitably soft you might have to improvise a different cutting tool made from a material you CAN work to a suitable geometry.
 
In Maine, I've seen large rocks with garnets. That's my first choice for reprofiling. Granite is the best I know of in most of the Northeast. I'd prefer sharpening stones for the final edge. I'd get 2 silicon carbide deburring stones of the same shape and different coarseness.
 
In Maine, I've seen large rocks with garnets. That's my first choice for reprofiling. Granite is the best I know of in most of the Northeast. I'd prefer sharpening stones for the final edge. I'd get 2 silicon carbide deburring stones of the same shape and different coarseness.
Granite and other igneous stones are generally not good sharpening stones, and sedimentary is preferred. Granite itself, especially the stuff we have here in Maine, is far too coarse in its "natural grain" to cut well when used in its native texture, but becomes too glassy when ground/polished, and you'd end up producing such an effect if grinding two granite stones against one another. The only way I can think of making a usable sharpening stone from granite would be by lapping it with loose SiC or diamond grit to create a "blasted" texture that would work somewhat like sandpaper or a file, but once the surface blunted you'd need to recondition it again. And it's very irregular in its mineral distribution and size. Altogether not a strong contender. Works great as a lapping plate if you get a tile of the stuff, though!

Granite may not work well, but we do have lots of siltstone and schists, and the siltstones have a lot of quartz while the schists have garnet in them. Both will more readily break down to expose fresh grit in use and tend to be more uniform in their grain size/distribution.
 
Granite and other igneous stones are generally not good sharpening stones, and sedimentary is preferred. Granite itself, especially the stuff we have here in Maine, is far too coarse in its "natural grain" to cut well when used in its native texture, but becomes too glassy when ground/polished, and you'd end up producing such an effect if grinding two granite stones against one another. The only way I can think of making a usable sharpening stone from granite would be by lapping it with loose SiC or diamond grit to create a "blasted" texture that would work somewhat like sandpaper or a file, but once the surface blunted you'd need to recondition it again. And it's very irregular in its mineral distribution and size. Altogether not a strong contender. Works great as a lapping plate if you get a tile of the stuff, though!

Granite may not work well, but we do have lots of siltstone and schists, and the siltstones have a lot of quartz while the schists have garnet in them. Both will more readily break down to expose fresh grit in use and tend to be more uniform in their grain size/distribution.
That's what I notice as well, with the vast majority of stones I find & experiment with. Even a lot of sandstone I find, which is initially too coarse for any sort of edge refinement, gets very glassy when I rub it against other stones. At that point, I then notice it usually won't cut the steel well, if at all, producing no visible swarf when grinding a blade against it. A lot of these stones rubbed smooth in this fashion might be decent burnishing stones and could be used to realign a very burred or rolled edge. But if any metal removal is necessary, they just won't work well. I notice this on the very coarse sandstone I find too, before rubbing it smooth - it won't cut the steel much, if at all, and the coarse grain instead just inflicts a lot of blunt force trauma against a blade's edge. It does more harm than good with most steels I've tried, leaving edges beat up and dull.

After seeing so much of that in random stones just found on the ground, one begins to appreciate more the unique attributes of truly good natural stones (like Arkansas stones) that can actually cut some steels fairly well and then refine the edge nicely. But even then, even the best Arkansas stones still have obvious limitations with more wear-resistant steels. And that, in turn, makes me appreciate what modern technology has provided for us in synthetic abrasives. All of this is what I consider most valuable in experimenting with these things - it clarifies an awful lot of things about sharpening steel, and what's necessary to make it work really well.
 
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