If You Could Own Only One 40 Caliber Out of These Brands..........

[narruc1]

Easy! I own one... Glock #23, w/internal laser, and 3lb trig pull.

------------------

BC... For those who fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know... Semper Fi

[This message has been edited by narruc1 (edited 03-16-2001).]

 

[RGRAY]

I'm not a fan of the 40, but GLOCK anything.

I have a Glock 19 with night sites and a 17 round mag.

IMHO, it's perfect.

------------------
Rick Gray - Left Handers Unite

 

[X-Head]

CPR, thanks for the clarification. I'm not questioning you when you say that yours just wasn't reliable, I was just saying that I thought your experience with the 229 was an unusual one, and not the norm. I hope I didn't offend, as I certainly did not mean to. Your credibility was never in question.

FWIW, my 229 feeds and cycles flawlessly 100% of the time when I am operating it properly (i.e., not limpwristing). I think that any autoloader will fail to fully cycle if you limpwrist loosely enough. If your USP will cycle during limpwristing better than my 229, I think that just means that the spring in my 229 is stronger / stiffer than the spring in your USP, which, during limpwristing, prevents the slide on my 229 from reaching the end of its travel in order to feed the next round. I can put lighter springs in and presto, I have a handgun that will cycle during limpwristing. This is not to knock the USP in any way; I know they're very good, and I'm actually in the market for one myself (I already own a SIG 229 & a Glock 23), so it would be hypocritical of me to put it down.

Does anyone have any experience with the SIG Pro in .40? How different is it from the 229 in function and design?

 

[CPR]

X-Head,

No offense taken

I do need to eat some crow, as I shot Senator's new stainless P229 (40) last weekend after the Charlotte gun/knife/jerky show. It shot flawlessly and accuratley. That thing is a tack driver! I guess Sig definitely cleared up any issues with their .40 pistols.

On a side note, I bought a Kel-tec P32 at the show and was pleasantly surprised with it's reliability/accuracy. I was expecting a jam-a-matic and found a great mousegun instead

Later,
Chris

 

[X-Head]

Chris, I appreciate that info on the Kel-Tec P-32, because I've had my eye on one for a while...I just picked up a Kel-Tec P40 recently but haven't had a chance to take it out yet, so can't say anything about it one way or another yet. I've heard mixed reviews on the P-40, as I'm sure you have also. Reviews on the P-11 seem much more consistently positive. But the size of that P-32 is amazing--I mean, I've seen .22 derringers that were bigger (and heavier)!

Regards,
X-Head (the other Chris)

 

[Guntaholic]

First Time visting this section of Blade Forums.... Don't know how I misssed it all this time!!!! I have carried a Glock 27 for 3 years now. I stopped counting after 5,000 rounds about a year ago, and have never ever had a problem. I take very good care of my firearms so I can't tell you on of those hell and back abuse stories. However the gun is everything I could ask for...

 

[rdangerer]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Spark:
Just watch out for Glocks in .40

Spark
</font>

Spark may have been jesting with this comment... but there are some true caveats with Glocks in .40 and Glocks in general.

I'm not an expert on this at all, but read enough to know there was lots of smoke and probably a fire here. If you are interested, hit some Glock forums and do the research yourself. Two key points, from memory but I think correct in principle:

1. If you choose to reload for .40S&W in a Glock, you must be an expert reloader and understand EXACTLY what you are doing, or you risk overpressure conditions more so than with many other rounds or pistols, as the case head isn't fully supported in the Glock in the interest of a feed ramp biased towards feed reliability (and all 4 Glock's I have owned, still have 2, were super reliable feeders).

2. You MUST not shoot lead bullets in the polygonal rifled Glocks! Period. There are serious injuries reported from leaded-up polygonal barrels producing overpressure conditions and case ruptures much sooner/fewer rounds than even knowledgeable reloaders expected.

If you must shoot wad- or semi-wadcuters, shoot the jacketed or partially jacketed versions. If you must shoot lead (say, lead wadcutters for practice or target shooting) in a Glock, strongly recommend a conventionally-rifled after- market drop in barrel. You give up a bit of maximum/peak pressure and velocity but not much.

Word....to ya mutha.... to duh wise.

 

[samhell]

I own a Sig 229 in 40 S&W and a Glock 23. Although I've never had a problem with either one, the glock is easier to shoot well and not as thick when carrying concealed.

 

[Spark]

There's no just, just ask NYPD about the amount of kB's (kaBOOMs, castistrophic failures of casings, effectively your firearm blows up in your hand) they've had in their Glocks. The .40 cartridge generates an enormous amount of chamber pressure, which increases exponentially if the bullet is seated too deep in the cartridge.

Now, this isn't to say that there haven't been kB's in all of the above models mentioned. It's just that the Glocks don't have fully supported chambers, and the rest do (IIRC), leading to less case stress, and less chance of a kB happening.

A kB is not a pretty thing. I like my hands, which is why I don't shoot reloads in my .40's. If I want to shoot reloads, I'll do it in my .45's or .22s, thank you very much.

Spark

 

[Guntaholic]

I couldn't agree more, stick to factory loads that are lead free when shooting your glock 40's and lead free loads in any caliber glock period and you will have very very few problems.

 

[Cut-Up]

I prefer the Glock. Sigs are nice also if you like the initial double action pull. Consider the new Kahr P40. It is a polymer framed, light weight gun. They're pretty nice. I have the Kahr MK9 Elite 98 and it's reliability is flawless.