I'm Curious about something...

pinnah said:
A good number of requests for technical features are to satisfy deep emotional responses and have little or nothing to do with actual performance. Often this is related to simple aesthetics (i.e. it looks cool, or as we say here, wicked pissah) but generally aesthetics are related to deep emotional responses.

An example from cycling is the fact that MTB bikes sold for kids universally have knobby tires on them despite the fact that semi-slick tires (like Paselas) will give kids better traction in any situation they're likely to ride in, including dirt roads. Still, parents don't understand this and emotionally equate the knobby tires with better traction and safety for their kids so MTBs with less safe tires will simply sell better.

Buck includes a lot technical elements on their most popular knives that have more to do with aesthetics than function: swedges, fancy grind lines, blood grooves, overly thick blades (Spitfire, I'm talking to you), recurved blades... I'm not busting on any of these features mind you. Just noting that for most of the buying public, they have nothing to do with technical performance and everything to do with an aesthetic response that is strong enough to drive a sale.

I see the interest screwed pivots in a similar light. I suppose one can make a case for it allowing for easier self repair [1] but I suspect that for most people, this is an emotionally driven aesthetic and not an actual need.

[1] - I should note that I have a drop point 110 from Copper and Clad on my dresser upstairs that I got for Christmas that came with a massive amount of lateral blade play out of the box. I've been too busy to send it in but a screwed together construction would allow me to fix it myself instead of the hassle of sending it in. That said, I prefer my lock backs to just work without me needing to adjust anything, so I'm no advocating for screws. Just nothing the kernel of truth behind the aesthetic.
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If you had sent the 110 back a few weeks ago, you'd have it by now...

I'm trying to figure out, what exactly do you use a knife for? From everything I've read from your posts is your more interested in cosmetics/appearances than your functionality or even practicality... JMHO....
 
I don't care for the adjustable. If I was out in the jungles of California and was being stalked by a tiger or something or something larger, I don't think I would have the time to see if my knife was adjusted properly to save my life, if needed. Just a thought....:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:p:cool:
 
sassafrassdogs3 said:
I don't care for the adjustable. If I was out in the jungles of California and was being stalked by a tiger or something or something larger, I don't think I would have the time to see if my knife was adjusted properly to save my life, if needed. Just a thought....:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:p:cool:
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But what about when you're sitting around the camp fire, eating said tiger, or sasquatch (I assume that's the thing bigger than the tiger you were running from)?
 
bikerector said:
But what about when you're sitting around the camp fire, eating said tiger, or sasquatch (I assume that's the thing bigger than the tiger you were running from)?
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I saw Bigfoots house and when I got back to camp and changing my drawers, I wished for a bigger gun and what Buck calls the Talon....Either of which if I was sitting at the campfire eating all I need is a 119 and a sharp stick to hang the meat over the fire...:D:D:eek::eek::eek::p:cool:

P.S. Never run, walk quickly and watch your back...
 
I think the best answer is:
It depends on the lock back....

Okay, I'll elaborate...
Are we talking about a one hand opening knife like the Spitfire? I think it makes more sense for that knife so users can tune it to their own liking since everyone's thumb strength and dexterity is different.

For a 110 though, which is "a folder with the strength of a fixed blade"; not so much.
If the strength of the knife can be compromised with the turn of a screw, it ceases being as strong as a fixed blade.

IMHO, I would rather have something that was done right the first time than something I might have to tinker with (as far as lock backs go, of course)

Fixing a loose pivot? Yep, a screw will do that. But why is it loose? Did it come that way from the factory, or did you do something other than cut with it?

A 110 "Folding Hunter" is for cutting meat, right? Cutting meat... that's what hunters do, yes? You wouldn't spread gravel with a lawn mower then be surprised because your mower's wrecked would you?

Maintenance? Nothing like being able to take apart a knife to clean it inside and out! Is it only a rumor that the 186 went away because too many people couldn't get it back together after taking it apart, or they lost too many little screws?

Pin it and forget it.
 
sassafrassdogs3 said:
If you had sent the 110 back a few weeks ago, you'd have it by now...

I'm trying to figure out, what exactly do you use a knife for? From everything I've read from your posts is your more interested in cosmetics/appearances than your functionality or even practicality... JMHO....
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/^From:.*sassafrassdogs3\.all/h:j
 
MT_Pokt said:
For a 110 though, which is "a folder with the strength of a fixed blade"; not so much.
If the strength of the knife can be compromised with the turn of a screw, it ceases being as strong as a fixed blade.

IMHO, I would rather have something that was done right the first time than something I might have to tinker with (as far as lock backs go, of course)

Fixing a loose pivot? Yep, a screw will do that. But why is it loose? Did it come that way from the factory, or did you do something other than cut with it?

A 110 "Folding Hunter" is for cutting meat, right? Cutting meat... that's what hunters do, yes? You wouldn't spread gravel with a lawn mower then be surprised because your mower's wrecked would you?
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My most commonly carried EDC knife is my aluminum framed 110 from Copper and Clad. It's a wonderful knife.

My second most commonly carried EDC knife is a modified Opinel #9.

I've been carrying and using 110s since the 70s and have been carrying and using Opinels for 10 years or and have concluded the same thing as you.... The 110 is a hunting knife first and foremost and using it in a way that puts a lot of lateral stress on the blade is a sure fire recipe for lateral play.

The Opinel on the other won't develop lateral play no matter how hard you abuse it. You'll work harden and snap the blade or simply rip the pivot out of the wood handle before you'll get it to develop blade play. But then, the pivot pin is fully peened over and won't slide through the bolster like a traditionally constructed knife like the 110 will. Just a different construction.

The Opinel is a horrible hunting knife but it's a good farm/hard use folder. Horses for courses, as the saying goes.

The counter-argument here would be that the 110 really opened up the door for hard use folders and a screwed together construction would allow the knife to be used as hard as consumers expect to use knives today. While screws may need to be adjusted, they aren't prone to pulling through the bolster like a flush peened pivot is.

If we're just talking about the 110 here, I wouldn't want to see the traditional 110 get a screwed pivot. I don't mind if there is a 110 variant, perhaps the new slim 110s or perhaps others, that get it. Both would be a nice option.
 
7C10B6FB-B2F9-4C8A-83E7-88689A3896EA.jpeg The pinned 110’s have a bushing that is slightly wider than the blade, and the pin holds the bolsters against the bushing. When the blade swings, the bushing does not.
I have put screws in many 110 pivots, but the adjustment is wrapped up in the width of the bushing relative to the blade. If when you squeeze the bolsters together, and the bushing is too short, the blade will not move. If when you squeeze the bolsters together, and the bushing is too long, there will be blade play.
So the only reason to have a screwed pivot in a lock back with a blade bushing, is the ability to clean the parts and/or change blades. Try to keep the bushing and the blade it came with together (for best action). It matters little which handle the combination is mounted in.
Now we come to the 30yr BCCI 110 knife. The T-nut in the pivot replaces the bushing and does not hold the bolsters apart. Therefore over tightening the pivot screw will stop the blade from moving. A little blue Loctite is necessary to maintain the pivot adjustment, but this set up will accommodate blades of different widths. Now you can clean, adjust, and swap to your heart’s content.
You can see the bushing and screw (on the right) as used on the 186 Titan. Compare that to the to the new T-nut set on the 30yr BCCI 110.
 
43BBCC70-E5F6-4E1B-B498-79BDE374A4C7.jpeg 48F2C030-C5A6-4790-8F33-C897FB60F48D.jpeg The problems associated with reassembling the 186 Titan had to do with the shrouding of the rocker pivot screw by the belt clip and the inability to “cock” the rocker spring. Here is an easy way to assemble the Titan.
 
when tightening the pivot isnt there a small window of adjustment of too tight and too loose?
 
If you’re talking about the BCCI knife, the arc through which the screw driver is twisted (for adjustment) depends on the coarseness of the thread. The pivot set on the BCCI is #6X40TPI. So a 1/4 turn would move the screw about .006”. A fine adjustment would be around .001” - .002” or 15-30 degrees. This is well within the normal range for rocket surgery.
 
tiguy7 said:
If you’re talking about the BCCI knife, the arc through which the screw driver is twisted (for adjustment) depends on the coarseness of the thread. The pivot set on the BCCI is #6X40TPI. So a 1/4 turn would move the screw about .006”. A fine adjustment would be around .001” - .002” or 15-30 degrees. This is well within the normal range for rocket surgery.
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This was worth waking for today. So thanks
 
st8yd said:
I am rather sure it would be fine to wait till you got home to adjust it.
I mostly prefer not having to regularly adjust something. I kinda like to set it and for get it.
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Exactly...Factory set that is...No adjustment....
 
sassafrassdogs3 said:
Just think of doing that out camping somewhere... Making an adjustment to your knife...
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I have done this many times on the railing of a porch using a single Allen key. A hot rock would work just as well. If you’re not going to be switching parts, you can Loctite everything together. These are not adjustments. Usually cleaning or switching blades.
 
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