His description of doing the hollow grind is very similar to my (one) experience grinding a ura on my yanagiba. It actually was surprisingly easy to control.I received the felt from McMaster today but was not feeling well so it will have to wait, hopefully not too long. Since the S-grind was mentioned in this thread, I thought I'd post the video below by @Salem Straub. He has been posting a lot of great videos lately. In the one below, he shows how to do an S-grind and makes it look real easy.
Uh. Wow. To do that would take lots of time, patience, and repeated measurements. Incredible... but I fear, only doable for a truly custom situation.A pretty extreme S grind was posted over in customs. One of the pics shows it very well.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...-albino-carabao-horn-sculpted-handle.1777478/
May I ask, with the convex grinds and "S" grinds that some of you are using, what geometry are you using for the actual edge/apex itself? Does your convexity go all the way to a "zero" edge, or are you putting a more traditional "V" shaped edge/microbevel? I ask because not many of my customers sharpen their own knives, much less know how to maintain a convex edge. So for that reason, I stick with full flat grinds that are just slightly convex and a traditional "V" shaped edge. I've been watching some of "Virtuovice" vids on YT and he really likes Bark River and their convex grinds, and I have been meaning to try convex geometry myself, not necessarily with kitchen knives quite yet. He maintains those convex grinds, which go to "zero", on flat waterstones, with a rocking motion. I find that interesting.
May I ask, with the convex grinds and "S" grinds that some of you are using, what geometry are you using for the actual edge/apex itself? Does your convexity go all the way to a "zero" edge, or are you putting a more traditional "V" shaped edge/microbevel? I ask because not many of my customers sharpen their own knives, much less know how to maintain a convex edge. So for that reason, I stick with full flat grinds that are just slightly convex and a traditional "V" shaped edge. I've been watching some of "Virtuovice" vids on YT and he really likes Bark River and their convex grinds, and I have been meaning to try convex geometry myself, not necessarily with kitchen knives quite yet. He maintains those convex grinds, which go to "zero", on flat waterstones, with a rocking motion. I find that interesting.
I have been sharpening them like a full flat grind with a "V" shaped edge and plan to do the same for the new one. I use a stone, guess at the angle and go, nothing fancy. I'll probably start with a 400 grit stone and then go to a 1000 grit stone and then strop. On the petty knife I ground today, the convexity is not really visible until you put a straight edge on the bevel. It is much less pronounced than on an Opinel, for instance. The edge is also much thinner and I can see a dimple when I run it over my fingernail with just slight pressure. While the angle has to be steeper at the edge than a full flat grind, I am not sure if I will notice a big difference in maintenance and it will likely take many years before I have to thin the edge. I've read some people use sandpaper on mouse pads for sharpening convex grinds, similar to the felt on the platen I guess. I am very interested to hear what methods people use, this is all pretty new to me and I'm just experimenting with it.May I ask, with the convex grinds and "S" grinds that some of you are using, what geometry are you using for the actual edge/apex itself? Does your convexity go all the way to a "zero" edge, or are you putting a more traditional "V" shaped edge/microbevel? I ask because not many of my customers sharpen their own knives, much less know how to maintain a convex edge. So for that reason, I stick with full flat grinds that are just slightly convex and a traditional "V" shaped edge. I've been watching some of "Virtuovice" vids on YT and he really likes Bark River and their convex grinds, and I have been meaning to try convex geometry myself, not necessarily with kitchen knives quite yet. He maintains those convex grinds, which go to "zero", on flat waterstones, with a rocking motion. I find that interesting.
This is a little bit off-topic - but here goes. I am really skeptical of convex grinds, and have no plans to put any on my knives. They sounds nice out of the gate, but from a maintenance perspective .... sharpen the blade a couple (or more) times, and the TBE increases quickly, giving you more of a hatchet feel than a nice slicing feel. I have a knife (santoku) I have had for ages that has a Granton edge that has been sharpened and sharpened, but still has a good food release behavior (like with Potatoes!), but also still has a nice slicing feel.
Another option would be a Urasuki (though I am only just now starting to experiment with them, and it would require a single-sided bevel)
Just IMHO.....
Hmmm ... so you are basically thinning by hand with that 600 grit?I've been using comvexgrind knoves for 20 years or so.
They are easy to maintain.
I can do full regrinds if needed, but have not really had to.
I maintain them with ceramic Spyderco sticks and a loaded strop.
Typically every so often I will sharpen/remove a bit behind the edge bevel lightly, then strop that area too.
Convex grinds are dead simple to maintain. I have a rubber strike pad and lay a sheet of 600 grit wet dry on it and poof.... blended convex and wicked sharp edge.
Just a bit of elbow grease is all it takes.