I recently acquired a Kizer KIV4423A2 Sovereign Linerlock Folding Knife 3.5" Blade 4.5" Closed Black/Blue G10 scales. It is the one with the reverse tanto blade, and the scalloped scales, which give the very nice looking blue and black pattern on the scales. And the scales have a nice 3D texture that makes for a nice grip. The blade came with the usual mediocre edge, but the relatively soft, second rate VG-10 steel is fairly easy to sharpen to a very good edge. That's the good.
The bad. The edges of the G10 scales on the finger grooved side had REALLY sharp edges. I mean REALLY SHARP EDGES. I nearly got a blister while sharpening the knife, before I realized just how poorly finished that edge, on both scales, was. Fortunately. the sharp edged scales are made of G10. You know: plastic. I used a fine half round diamond file to smooth down the sharp edges. It didn't take very long, and now it's very comfortable. But it never should have left the factory like this. It's like somebody skipped a step in the manufacturing process of those really nice looking blue and black scales.
The ugly. The flipping action. There isn't any. The blade has SO MUCH DRAG, the ONLY WAY to get it open is with a hugely over exaggerated 'flip' using not just your wrist, but your forearm too. There is almost no detent at all when you close the blade. BECAUSE OF THIS, you can't build up ANY pressure on the flipper tab. Push on the flipper tab and the blade just starts to open immediately. THEN you have use the LARGE, OVER EXAGGERATED wrist AND arm snap, to get that REALLY stubborn blade to lock open.
I tried loosening the tension on the pivot pin, not a lot, but enough, which IN THEORY, SHOULD allow the blade to move with less friction. BUT NOOOOO! It DOESN'T. Well, it DOES if there is a millimeter of open space on each side of the blade. You STILL have to use a LOT of wrist flip to get the blade to make an appearance. I haven't taken the scales off and the pivot out, to see if perhaps whatever bearing surface this knife is SUPPOSED TO HAVE might have been left out of the knife. But then, I don't KNOW what it's supposed to look like in there. Hardened bronze bearing? Spring loaded split washers? Who knows.
What I DO KNOW, is that calling this knife a 'flipper' is a travesty. If I'm sitting in the driver's seat of my car, the ONLY WAY to open this knife with one hand is to use the space in front of my passenger, to get a HARD and LONG enough manual 'flip' on this knife, to coax the blade out of hiding.
Because of this, as nice as the knife LOOKS, it's damn near worthless to me as a working knife.
Just another example of why it is SUCH A BAD IDEA TO BUY 'PRECISION' THINGS MADE IN CHINA. I think the guy who does QC has a half blind seeing eye dog. And that is being WAY more polite than the extremely poor quality, fit, and finish of this knife calls for. It's TYPICAL CHINESE JUNK, plain and simple. I rolled the Kizer dice, and I LOST. I got a knife that NEVER should have left the factory.
THIS is EXACTLY why I prefer to buy American made products.
I won't be buying any more Kizer knives. My friends will NEVER buy a Kizer knife. Strangers I meet at the bus stop will never buy a Kizer knife.
And YES, I lubricated the pivot area. It didn't make a rat's hind end worth of difference. OF COURSE.