KME Advice

1. Is tape over the blade necessary to prevent scratches? 2. Is the 100-grit stone necessary?

  • Q1: Yes. Q2: Yes

  • Q1:Yes. Q2: No.

  • Q1:No. Q2: Yes.

  • Q1:No. Q2: No.


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The concept of not apexing with the 100 grit is new to me. If you don't apex with it (no burr), how do you know when you're close if reprofiling?

In my opinion, just sharpen as normal. Unless you're really chasing some kind of refinement, just sharpen your knife. I'm a big fan of Dean O's videos and always recommend him but I never concerned myself with this and have never felt like I missed out or messed up.

I'm always learning though, so maybe as I'm growing more discerning I'll find something here that changes my view but I wouldn't stress it.
 
The concept of not apexing with the 100 grit is new to me. If you don't apex with it (no burr), how do you know when you're close if reprofiling?
I use a sharpie and a jeweler's loup to see where I'm at.
Also I always remove the bad material from the apex by running the apex along a stone. So it's completely blunt. Removing the bad material and stressed edge from the wear you put it through from cutting already. This will improve the end result. This gives you time to not apex right away too and allows you to start a fresh. Also helps get past that burnt factory edge faster,or so that's the theory.

Ideally just avoid the 100 and 50. As mentioned it's very coarse and hard to blend those deep scratches out. If you do apex with them you will more than likely have issues.
 
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