Large Survival Knife Steel Choice? Most important characteristic?

Which steel would you rather see a large wilderness survival knife made from?

  • A8 Mod

    Votes: 8 8.9%

  • S7

    Votes: 3 3.3%

  • 3V

    Votes: 42 46.7%

  • 80crv2

    Votes: 11 12.2%

  • 15N20

    Votes: 6 6.7%

  • 8670

    Votes: 4 4.4%

  • 5160

    Votes: 16 17.8%
  • Total voters
    90
This Barowie chopper I am getting ready to send out tomorrow is .187” AEBL, around 59 RC and .016” behind the edge.

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This is my personal Barax in .125” 15N20, 61 RC and down to .012” behind the edge after a bit of use and refinement.

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They are not for chopping cinder blocks. They are for demolishing North American hardwood. And they will do that without fatigue.
 
scdub said:
I voted S7. Of the listed steels it has the lowest carbon content (0.5%) and is therefore the least likely to break/chip, all other things being equal. Using the toughest possible steel allows me to use thinner stock (less weight, better geometry) in a designated survival knife with relative confidence. I plan to chop dry wood with my survival knife, and I may not always have the best technique if I’m freezing, so toughness is a high priority.
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The problem with very much most of sawback knives is that it is exactly there where they will fail under stress. I see the slightest of radius at the bottom of of those particular saw teeth (or perhaps they are more intended as a rasp - like on the later Glock field knife), but generally they are a very bad idea. (Like any structural engineer might tell you that windows in a building are designed failure points...true, but practibility has also be considered...)
 
I’ve never been a fan of saw teeth myself, however that knife is a Mountainmandu which was originally offered without them. I’ve owned two of those versions and liked them a lot. I just prefer my Dogfather.

I think Busse says they’re actually for notching and not intended to replace a saw. Which is more ammunition against them IMO. Their presence verily likely increases the risk of a failure with a stress riser.
 
I say 80Crv2 is the best choice, because you will need a way to make a spark for fire………and it is easy to sharpen.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
I can't do this.


I dare you to go out back or anywhere else that has a tree. Using those teeth to cut a 1" or bigger tree branch.

Going up to 4 inches. The big logs in the fire.
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Luckily you don’t have to…

However I have, and while it’s certainly no match for my Silky saws in efficiency, due to the full-flat grind, pull-action, and relatively thin stock, it actually saws wood pretty well. I wouldn’t use it for fire making, but it would certainly come in handy for shelter building…

I know that the vast majority of saw backs are basically worthless as saws, but this is the exception that proves the rule…

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Grasshopperglock said:
That's Rambo movie inspired.
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Quite possibly - but that’s ok with me. 😁
 
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TC said:
The problem with very much most of sawback knives is that it is exactly there where they will fail under stress. I see the slightest of radius at the bottom of of those particular saw teeth (or perhaps they are more intended as a rasp - like on the later Glock field knife), but generally they are a very bad idea. (Like any structural engineer might tell you that windows in a building are designed failure points...true, but practibility has also be considered...)
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I probably wouldn’t have considered it but for the fact that the steel is S7 (mod). ;)
 
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scdub said:
Luckily you don’t have to…

However I have, and while it’s certainly no match for my Silky saws in efficiency, due to the full-flat grind, pull-action, and relatively thin stock, it actually saws wood pretty well. I wouldn’t use it for fire making, but it would certainly come in handy for shelter building…

I know that the vast majority of saw backs are basically worthless, but this is the exception that proves the rule…

View attachment 2479857



Quite possibly - but that’s ok with me. 😁
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No rules against fashion. I like that and would own it.
 
W.E.S.T said:
I think Busse says they’re actually for notching and not intended to replace a saw. Which is more ammunition against them IMO. Their presence verily likely increases the risk of a failure with a stress riser.
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Actually Busse put out a video demonstrating that unlike most saw-back knives (even the other models they make) this one was actually designed to SAW WOOD.

Yes re:stress risers, but this is for wilderness survival rather than urban survival/war. I won’t be chopping/prying cinder blocks, so (with S7) I’m pretty confident. ✌️
 
I like 3V because it's tough, strong and has good edge retention. And it doesn't rust very much. If your knife goes dull from microchipping, blunting, rolling or rusting, you're going to spend a lot of energy with a rock.

Sawbacks are mostly for fun, but they make awesome notches fast and with almost no energy. If you have some paracord, notches are your friend. Although they are stress risers, they are usually on such thick blades that breaking won't be much of a threat.

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scdub said:
Actually Busse put out a video demonstrating that unlike most saw-back knives (even the other models they make) this one was actually designed to SAW WOOD.

Yes re:stress risers, but this is for wilderness survival rather than urban survival/war. I won’t be chopping/prying cinder blocks, so (with S7) I’m pretty confident. ✌️
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Fair enough, I somehow missed that video from them. SR-77 has always treated me well.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
If you're ever in the situation. You're going to treat your knife like your life depended on it.

It'll be used but extra care, it will be taken care of. It has to last you and do it's job. But only if you take care of it.

Otherwise, it's a ridiculous JoeX.
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This seems logical , but is highly misleading . Contrary to many real life events .

My knowledge of true "survival " emergency scenarios , includes the very real potential of serious physical traumatic injuries , dehydration , starvation , hypothermia , heat stroke , insect stings &/or plant toxins ,snake bite , sun burn , food poisoning , etc .

And simple , good old fashioned panic, and general disorientation, from mortal fear .

You may , or may not, be in any kind of normal state of mental or physical control , capable of careful / skillful use of your equipment .
 
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