Lowering Forced Air Forge Temp via Burner Design?

Velocity isn't an issue. The 1/4" pipe provides enough. That is why I suggested removing the bell reducer and keeping 1/4" all the way to the T.

A MIG tip would restrict flow on a blown burner. The only reason it is there on a venturi burner is to create the Venturi low pressure zone to draw in the air. On a blown burner, you are forcing the air in, so there is no need of a high velocity flow.

All that is why a venturi burner runs on 5 to 30 PSI and a blown burner runs on 1 to 5 PSI. Same volume of gas, just different ways to mix it with the air. Obviously, the blown burner is more efficient, because you can independently adjust the air and gas to get any desired mix.

If you want to have the 1/4" pipe stick out inside the manifold, as JT mentioned, drill a plug that fits the Tee so it makes a snug fit for a 1/4" stainless steel pipe nipple. Cut off the threads on one end and file smooth inside and out. Tap the pipe through the plug and after checking the amount of extension needed to be roughly in the center of the manifold, put some thin CA glue on the pipe to seal it in place. Put a bead of JB weld around the pipe to make it secure and hook up the rest of the gas line as normal. (If you weld, just weld the pipe in place).
 
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10-4, thanks for the help guys. I have the parts ordered. Will update with the final product and performance! :thumbsup::D
 
I added some more to my previous post.

Velocity isn't an issue. The 1/4" pipe provides enough. That is why I suggested removing the bell reducer and keeping 1/4" all the way to the T.

A MIG tip would restrict flow on a blown burner. The only reason it is there on a venturi burner is to create the Venturi low pressure zone to draw in the air. On a blown burner, you are forcing the air in, so there is no need of a high velocity flow.

All that is why a venturi burner runs on 5 to 30 PSI and a blown burner runs on 1 to 5 PSI. Same volume of gas, just different ways to mix it with the air. Obviously, the blown burner is more efficient, because you can independently adjust the air and gas to get any desired mix.

If you want to have the 1/4" pipe stick out inside the manifold, as JT mentioned, drill a plug that fits the Tee so it makes a snug fit for a 1/4" stainless steel pipe nipple. Cut off the threads on one end and file smooth inside and out. Tap the pipe through the plug and after checking the amount of extension needed to be roughly in the center of the manifold, put some thin CA glue on the pipe to seal it in place. Put a bead of JB weld around the pipe to make it secure and hook up the rest of the gas line as normal. (If you weld, just weld the pipe in place).
 
Hey guys, so this is how it turned out! Thanks for the help! I was able to get lower temps, which was the goal. In general it seems to run a lot smoother than my original blown burner.

I tried to use as many parts that I already had, so some of the piping may not be 100% optimal (ie the 1-1/4'' to 1'' reducer...). I'll note there are more cost effective (less brass) ways of assembling this guy, but this is just how my mind worked it out with yall's help!


Design:





Parts:

If anyone is building a forge burner I'd highly recommend supplyhouse.com for the brass and iron fittings... They were cheaper than my local Lowes or HomeDepot and they had more options.

Brass Fittings - https://www.supplyhouse.com/Brass-Fittings-164000

Black Iron Pipe - https://www.supplyhouse.com/Black-Fittings-Imported-12033000

15 PSI Gauge - https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=GEP2-15-DS

Needle Valve and Gate - https://hightemptools.com/valves.html

ESD Solenoid - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010LT30HE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My blower was purchased in 2007 and I'm pretty sure they don't make them anymore. (Hyesung)

Photos:





Performance:




Video of Operation:



Thanks again for all the help! This burner is way more controllable!

Cheers,
JK
 
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