Making a pouch sheath - Apprentice Thread.

[Omega Leather Works]

Very good, thanks. I still have one stop at Hobby Lobby to grab a set of overstitch wheels, but the sheath is getting closer.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Finally finished my first sheath. Huge thanks to Tal for taking the time to post all of this. Without this thread and videos I would have had a hellava hard time getting it all together. I learned a lot(!), and can't wait to get to the rest. I plan on trying a few things differently as I go, but this sheath seems serviceable.

Pics suck. I took them a few minutes ago here in the break room at work.

This is for my Kephart.

I decided to take the pics in bright sunlight which shows every mistake glaringly, but honestly. It looks better in regular light!

I dislike the welt edge. There are a couple of small gaps, and the only thing I can think of is that the welt must not have been skived evenly. I did sand it after skiving, but apparently I didn't make it perfectly flat?

Sky, if you're reading this, I decided to burnish the edge using beeswax. Is it possible to fill those gaps somehow? I was thinking about melting a little bit of the wax into the gaps.

I also still need to finish wet forming and sealing. I haven't settled on a sealer, but will probably use what I have which is Tandy Super Sheen. The dangler is sealed using the stuff, and while it looks super shiny in the pics, it doesn't look that shiny IRL, especially under normal lighting conditions.

My favorite part of all of this is that I can finally start carrying and using my Fiddleback!

Any criticisms or suggestions are welcome. Any tips on wet forming or filling the welt gaps are welcome too.

 

[Rick Lowe]

Well done! Don't beat yourself up 'cause that's a nice job. It's the same with knives, the maker always sees little things that anyone else might never notice. I'm a big fan of that green dye job, too!

 

[orangehero]

Haven't tried it myself, but I've read you can mix up leather dust with some contact cement, fill in gouges with it and sand everything flush. It should be a dry mix, more leather dust than glue, so it can take dye and finish.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Well done! Don't beat yourself up 'cause that's a nice job. It's the same with knives, the maker always sees little things that anyone else might never notice. I'm a big fan of that green dye job, too!

Big praise coming from you my man. Thanks for the kind words about the dye. I wasn't positive that I liked it at first, but I wanted something different and I guess that qualifies. And I agree about knife making. On my first I could see a dozen things wrong with it, but others seem to like it. Our own worst critic and all that. :thumbup:

Haven't tried it myself, but I've read you can mix up leather dust with some contact cement, fill in gouges with it and sand everything flush. It should be a dry mix, more leather dust than glue, so it can take dye and finish.

Ha! I didn't ever think of that. I've done it with wood, but never leather. Just goes to show, a lot of technique can be applied to more than one hand crafting medium.

 

[Skystorm]

I dislike the welt edge. There are a couple of small gaps, and the only thing I can think of is that the welt must not have been skived evenly. I did sand it after skiving, but apparently I didn't make it perfectly flat?

Sky, if you're reading this, I decided to burnish the edge using beeswax. Is it possible to fill those gaps somehow? I was thinking about melting a little bit of the wax into the gaps.

That's great job for the first one, Alot of people would love to see colors like that on a sheath! To fix the edge you don't really want to try and fill it with something, rather just sand it down some more until you have it flat, same way you would work out a chip in a knife edge. Once you've done that rub the edge with tandys super snot and wait for it to dry then burnish it with beeswax. I don't really recommend super sheen or atom wax because they tend to leave spots when you get them wet. Either Obenaufs or grab a jar of sno-seal for a couple bucks.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

That's great job for the first one, Alot of people would love to see colors like that on a sheath! To fix the edge you don't really want to try and fill it with something, rather just sand it down some more until you have it flat, same way you would work out a chip in a knife edge. Once you've done that rub the edge with tandys super snot and wait for it to dry then burnish it with beeswax. I don't really recommend super sheen or atom wax because they tend to leave spots when you get them wet. Either Obenaufs or grab a jar of sno-seal for a couple bucks.

Thanks bud.

I think that, instead of grabbing an off the shelf item, I'll try my hand at making my own conditioning/protectant. I've got plenty of beeswax and also a lot of coconut oil (we use it for a lot of baby products we make) and I think those two will emulsify fine since no water is involved.

Edit- okay, I made some conditioner going by a recipe online. I applied it to the sheath and really like the results. Much less shiny than the Super Sheen. I haven't tested water resistance, but will eventually.

Here's a final wet formed and "sealed" pic. Notice how shiny the dangler is compared to the sheath. Too bad I didn't know to do this before doing the dangler, but it's all about the learning on this one. Again, many thanks!

 

[Omega Leather Works]

After reading this thread for a while, I had to make a go at this. I went a different direction from the pouch sheath. I took one of Tal's designs for a nessmuk I liked and and tried to copy it. I had only seen the first video by the time I made the sheath, so I will have to watch the rest of the videos and see what I missed out on. I think I can agree with many of the posts here - it was very much a learning process and I would not do some of the same things again. I made a bunch of mistakes that are very obvious to me, but for a first learning attempt I think it came out OK. I pressed too hard when wet forming. I need a depth stop on the drill press when the needle punched through, because it touched the leather several times. It took me a while to figure out to drill a hole in piece of wood just larger than the needle and use it as backing to give the sheath enough support so that the needle would make a clean straight punch. There has got to be an easier way to connect the dots on the back than the adjustable v-gouge. I over ran the groove in a couple of places doing this. The list goes on and on. I certainly have a huge appreciation for the sheathmaker's work I see here. This was definitely a fun project and I will try to make some of my own sheaths in future. I figure I need about 3 more before I break even on all the stuff I bought to make them... and sorry for the crappy pics, but here it is:

M4 I really really like the two you've made. Imo they are definitely some of the best ones in this thread. I'm starting on a sheath for my standard Karda, and I'd like to do one similar to the first one you did.

My questions are simple, and Tal (or anyone else), you're welcome to give input as the design was influenced by your work. My question regards the welt and depth that the knife sits at. On a sheath like this, is there one layer thickness of welt? Is it skived (tapered) toward the bottom, or left full thickness? On a ratio, how much of the handle sticks up out of the sheath? On my pouch I have about 1/3rd of the handle outside of the sheath.

My goal on this one is to keep the wet molding for retention to a minimum. I also plan to basket weave tool the front but I may chicken out.

Thanks for any advice,

Anthony

 

[McVeyMac]

Thanks bud.

I think that, instead of grabbing an off the shelf item, I'll try my hand at making my own conditioning/protectant. I've got plenty of beeswax and also a lot of coconut oil (we use it for a lot of baby products we make) and I think those two will emulsify fine since no water is involved.

Edit- okay, I made some conditioner going by a recipe online. I applied it to the sheath and really like the results. Much less shiny than the Super Sheen. I haven't tested water resistance, but will eventually.

Here's a final wet formed and "sealed" pic. Notice how shiny the dangler is compared to the sheath. Too bad I didn't know to do this before doing the dangler, but it's all about the learning on this one. Again, many thanks!

Anthony, that sheath color would go very well with my SP handle color.




Not very good pictures of my SP, but this was the first thing that I thought of when I saw your sheath. Great job, and that is completely a serviceable sheath.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Anthony, that sheath color would go very well with my SP handle color.




Not very good pictures of my SP, but this was the first thing that I thought of when I saw your sheath. Great job, and that is completely a serviceable sheath.

Heck yeah it would. That sp is awesome! The Sneaky Pete is at the top of my list on knives I want next for sure.

I originally bought the green to go with my first knife.

Problem is that I used yellow burlap with the green epoxy pigment, and also made white liners. Won't go well with green/black so I've gotta figure something else out.

I know they make leather paints that I could use to more closely match the knife, but that would probably turn out ugly as sin. I may end up having to just do the whole thing in black. I wanted something more unique.

We'll see.

Thanks for the nice comments.

 

[Skystorm]

M4 I really really like the two you've made. Imo they are definitely some of the best ones in this thread. I'm starting on a sheath for my standard Karda, and I'd like to do one similar to the first one you did.

My questions are simple, and Tal (or anyone else), you're welcome to give input as the design was influenced by your work. My question regards the welt and depth that the knife sits at. On a sheath like this, is there one layer thickness of welt? Is it skived (tapered) toward the bottom, or left full thickness? On a ratio, how much of the handle sticks up out of the sheath? On my pouch I have about 1/3rd of the handle outside of the sheath.

My goal on this one is to keep the wet molding for retention to a minimum. I also plan to basket weave tool the front but I may chicken out.

Thanks for any advice,

Anthony

On that style I use 1 welt plus a skived wedge welt about 1/3 the length on the top, makes it so you can get the handle in easier. How much handle sticking out is just personal preference.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

On that style I use 1 welt plus a skived wedge welt about 1/3 the length on the top, makes it so you can get the handle in easier. How much handle sticking out is just personal preference.

I'm not sure why but I'm finding sheath design to be really difficult. Not the actual making once the pattern is made, but the pattern making. Knives are super easy by comparison. I've looked at dozens of pages of custom sheaths via Google, but can't seem to find inspiration. Part of it is the fact that it must be super functional. What I mean is that I had finally decided on the above pattern, but then, as I was sitting in my truck this morning, realized that a normal height belt sheath will not work well. A dangler is a great solution for sure. My first one is lightweight and moves well as it bumps against things. It's also easy to draw from, yet retention is enough that I can't really shake it loose upside down unless I snap it.

Legality is another big issue. Can't be concealed in any way. Lastly, the Karda is hard because it's too small (imo) for a dangler sheath, but (mine is) way too heavy for wearing around the neck. I'm not sure if wearing in a sheath that goes in the pocket is legal or not, and Leo don't know until it's too late.

I guess what I'm asking is, where do you guys find inspiration? I think that kydex can be more straight forward in that regard. Maybe kydex with a Karda sporting g10 wouldn't be so bad. I guess.

Sorry for going on, I'm just stuck.

 

[Skystorm]

I just draw. Alot. Imagination is pretty much unlimited.

Cali is a pain. My solution to their millions of ignorant laws is easy, I just don't bother following their laws when I'm there.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I just draw. Alot. Imagination is pretty much unlimited.

Cali is a pain. My solution to their millions of ignorant laws is easy, I just don't bother following their laws when I'm there.

The knife laws are pretty good in almost every part of Cali. The only laws regulating fixed blades are a double edge dagger rule. Outside of that you're good to go. It could be a Karda, or a Katana. As long as it's not hidden, no worries. SF and one other place (can't remember) have some additional rules, but I don't live in one of those two places.

Folders are even less regulated. No length restrictions to speak of here. Auto's and balis are banned, but that's pretty common nation wide. You can still own them, but cannot carry them.

California laws on firearms blow, but knives are pretty fair.

Drawing. I've been doing a lot of that lately. I need a French curve, but aside from wonky lines I have some designs I like, just nothing for the little Karda. Poor thing. I'm gonna build another sheath now and think on the little Fiddleback more.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Well done! Don't beat yourself up 'cause that's a nice job. It's the same with knives, the maker always sees little things that anyone else might never notice. I'm a big fan of that green dye job, too!

This is the truth. I think that is a hell of a sheath. For the tools you used, the leather you had, and it being a first sheath - it is a HELL of a sheath.

Only can get better from here. Your days of buying them are over.

TF

 

[Diomedes Industries]

M4 I really really like the two you've made. Imo they are definitely some of the best ones in this thread. I'm starting on a sheath for my standard Karda, and I'd like to do one similar to the first one you did.

My questions are simple, and Tal (or anyone else), you're welcome to give input as the design was influenced by your work. My question regards the welt and depth that the knife sits at. On a sheath like this, is there one layer thickness of welt? Is it skived (tapered) toward the bottom, or left full thickness? On a ratio, how much of the handle sticks up out of the sheath? On my pouch I have about 1/3rd of the handle outside of the sheath.

My goal on this one is to keep the wet molding for retention to a minimum. I also plan to basket weave tool the front but I may chicken out.

Thanks for any advice,

Anthony

Anthony.

Skive the welt toward the tip. On the one you saw me make I used a two part welt and left a weep hole at the bottom. I skived from full thickness to about 1/32nd at the tip. I start skiving at the blade.

In terms of retention - that is up to you. I usually leave JUST enough to grab with two fingers as I do DEEP pouch sheaths. This is simply a matter of preference and how much retention you want.

TF

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Your days of buying them are over.

TF

Eh... They never began! That was part of the problem. I've never owned a leather sheath. Never seen one up close. That's why this thread was absolutely critical for me. I really did need everything you put in the thread, and especially what you put into the videos. For that, I again, thank you and the others.

Thanks for the additional comments as well. A friend is helping me with some design ideas and I think I may have a handle on trying a small of the back sheath.

Good times.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Strig.

Do you want my designs? What knife are you working on? Tell me what you want to do and I can try to sketch something up.

You know? That is really what is missing from my thread - a design video. Should we do one?

TF

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Strig.

Do you want my designs? What knife are you working on? Tell me what you want to do and I can try to sketch something up.

You know? That is really what is missing from my thread - a design video. Should we do one?

TF

Well, unfortunately, the only other FF I have is the standard Karda. The other knife that I need to make a sheath for is the little wharncliffe that I made (pictured above). I'm less stumped by the wharnie, but the blade shape doesn't lend itself to a "normal" sheath. The profile is basically a backward traditional shape, so a fitted sheath might look wrong to the eye. Like you're wearing it on the wrong side. Not sure if that makes sense.

A design video would be amazing! Include thoughts on pattern and welt making (although you did already cover welt design nicely) would really round out the thread.

It's not really my place to advise on the forum itself, but I still wonder why this hasn't been made a sticky. I am subscribed so I get a mobile notification when someone posts, but I'd hate to see it lost in the shuffle. I've referred a few people that have asked about sheath making in other threads and it's always very well received. Plus it brings more people to this forum, one of my favorites by far.

 

[write2dgray]

A design video would be terrific .

I'd like to share my latest sheath (#2) that I've been carrying a couple of weeks. My 10 yr. old daughter and I put it together over a weekend using the same tools and Tandy side as before, this time using medium brown dye and an "antiqued" finish.

It's a departure from the sheaths featured here, but is designed to accommodate a compact EDC set-up that I stow in the right fifth pocket of my Carhartt jeans.

All feedback welcome and thanks again for everyone's help!

Cheers,
David