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- Mar 29, 2007
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- 5,846
Figure, since I've now got 4 that are either designed at the request of, or are traditionally military, or that I've designed that way- ... um, what was I saying?
Oh yeah, militray knife thread.
Going to start off with a recap:
It took me a while to get around to this- about 1.5 years, in fact.
I wanted the trail knife to have two versions, the second version being a micarta, shadetree, or G10 handle material with an exposed tang at the rear and some sort of blade coating.
Here, at last, is the first one. I used Brownell's Oxpho-Blue for it, it's pretty hard wearing, easy to use, and easy to touch up:
Anyway, knife specs.
OAL: 13" Blade 7 3/8" Length of scales approx 4 3/4 inches
Steel: 5160, quenched with the spine against the tank rim (this slows things down on the spine end of cooling and reportedly gives me a low, 50 Rc on the spine), tempered 3 times with a downward ramping temperature. Differentially tempered along the upper spine for a bit more beatability.
Thickness of steel is .23 inches through the tang, maintained through the first 2/3 of blade length.
Grind: Full convex. Distal taper predominantly near the front third of the blade.
Weight: 17 ounces.
Scales: shadetree phenolic burlap base, in black. Brass pins lightly washed with bluing.
photos:
The idea behind the trail knife was to have a blade that would work for cutting, chopping, game finishing and rough and ready self defense. Though not necessarily intended to be the finest slicer, it will shave curls, as well as chop. Penetration is extreme, the fluid geometry just sucks right into a cut or puncture.
For the Field Dirk version I wanted a blade coating, durable handle material, and I decided to leave the tang exposed at the rear for hammering.
Dirk in this case references the Spanish/Mediterranean dirk, which is classically single edged for defensive use with the blade spine along the forearm (in an icepick grip). As a fighting knife, the style has a long and successful history, and as a practical knife, the shape evolved into the modern chef's knife, among other things.
Oh yeah, militray knife thread.
Going to start off with a recap:
It took me a while to get around to this- about 1.5 years, in fact.
I wanted the trail knife to have two versions, the second version being a micarta, shadetree, or G10 handle material with an exposed tang at the rear and some sort of blade coating.
Here, at last, is the first one. I used Brownell's Oxpho-Blue for it, it's pretty hard wearing, easy to use, and easy to touch up:
Anyway, knife specs.
OAL: 13" Blade 7 3/8" Length of scales approx 4 3/4 inches
Steel: 5160, quenched with the spine against the tank rim (this slows things down on the spine end of cooling and reportedly gives me a low, 50 Rc on the spine), tempered 3 times with a downward ramping temperature. Differentially tempered along the upper spine for a bit more beatability.
Thickness of steel is .23 inches through the tang, maintained through the first 2/3 of blade length.
Grind: Full convex. Distal taper predominantly near the front third of the blade.
Weight: 17 ounces.
Scales: shadetree phenolic burlap base, in black. Brass pins lightly washed with bluing.
photos:
The idea behind the trail knife was to have a blade that would work for cutting, chopping, game finishing and rough and ready self defense. Though not necessarily intended to be the finest slicer, it will shave curls, as well as chop. Penetration is extreme, the fluid geometry just sucks right into a cut or puncture.
For the Field Dirk version I wanted a blade coating, durable handle material, and I decided to leave the tang exposed at the rear for hammering.
Dirk in this case references the Spanish/Mediterranean dirk, which is classically single edged for defensive use with the blade spine along the forearm (in an icepick grip). As a fighting knife, the style has a long and successful history, and as a practical knife, the shape evolved into the modern chef's knife, among other things.
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