need a good utility knife for art school

Centofante 4 by Spyderco would be a good bet, takes an edge well, it's a warncliffe blade so it's more practical for cutting material and using with a ruler.. plus it's a thin blade so it'll handle thicker material well.

Spyderco%20Centofante4%20Wharncliffe.jpg
 
If I were you I'd just get either a snap off art knife, or a folding utility blade knife, and keep a cool pocket knife for other things. You don't have to worry about either one rusting, breaking, or losing.

0575031_450_SC_decd.jpg


Or

0575094_450_CC_4d9a5.jpg
 
Another vote for the Opinel paring knife for kitchen use. They make both carbon and stainless (Inox), versions. Both take a great edge. Or you could check out Victorinox paring knives which are also inexpensive and hold a keen edge.
 
GarageBoy said:
RISD student?
Olfa rocks, light years ahead of Xacto
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Yep, I'm going to be a freshman at risd in a 3 days.

What makes olfa better than xacto? They look the same to me. I'm used to buying xacto products, is olfa always better?

Thanks for the help everyone. It's cool that there are so many former art students here.
 
zdri said:
Yep, I'm going to be a freshman at risd in a 3 days.

What makes olfa better than xacto? They look the same to me. I'm used to buying xacto products, is olfa always better?

Thanks for the help everyone. It's cool that there are so many former art students here.
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A buddy had an old olfa that lasts forever.

But personally I buy them at dollar store, and have a couple lying around. I use them for lots of things that knife/handle isn't suppose to do, and don't worry about them breaking.
 
DoctaD said:
I forgot to mention, the Kershaw "Needs Work", which works very well as a utility knife. The blade length is at your upper limit of 3". And, you have to be careful using the Assisted Opening in front of "Sheeple".

Dean
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+1 to that. Another couple of ideas would be the Kershaw Scallion or Spyderco Poliwog. The Poliwog is non-threatening, easy to open and fits the hand perfectly. Its a great utility knife, despite it's artsy appearance.

C98_M.jpg
 
One more thing, whatever you decide to get, you'll probably carry your art supplies in some kind of tackle box thing. Get that at the fishing supply store and not at the student store or art supply. It'll save you loads of $$.

Also, PUT YOUR NAME ON ALL YOUR STUFF! It WILL walk away. Again, been there done that. I even had to resort to writing my name inside rolls of tape to keep up with it.

Buy spray mount at the hardware store, not the art supply store, more $$ in your pocket. Clear acrylic spray paint works good as fixative and is only $1 per can. Buy your #11 X-acto blades in the 100 pack and use 'em like they're free. Don't let an $.20 blade ruin a $100 project. I guess the rule should be, stay away from art supply stores in general for supplies whenever possible.

Again, Good luck! Are you going into fine art or communication arts (graphics)?
 
zdri,
different tools for different jobs.
Olfa for 90% off the jobs, #11 for tight corners & small circles.
Single edge razor for ultra clean cuts.

Don't be cheap with your blades. As soon as they start to drag, snap them off or replace them. Dull blades are not only unsafe, but don't give you a nice clean edge either.
Put some white masking (artist) tape on the back of your straight edge so it doesn't slide around on you.

Oh, and not to hurt anyones feelings about using a pocketknife for art studio work...but don't. It is a poor substitute for the right tool.
30 years of experience as a comp artist in NYC art studios talking here...it's what I do :D
 
I'll probably buy the wharcom anyway even though I don't need it, I like it and it won't scare people.

clw3 said:
One more thing, whatever you decide to get, you'll probably carry your art supplies in some kind of tackle box thing. Get that at the fishing supply store and not at the student store or art supply. It'll save you loads of $$.

Also, PUT YOUR NAME ON ALL YOUR STUFF! It WILL walk away. Again, been there done that. I even had to resort to writing my name inside rolls of tape to keep up with it.

Buy spray mount at the hardware store, not the art supply store, more $$ in your pocket. Clear acrylic spray paint works good as fixative and is only $1 per can. Buy your #11 X-acto blades in the 100 pack and use 'em like they're free. Don't let an $.20 blade ruin a $100 project. I guess the rule should be, stay away from art supply stores in general for supplies whenever possible.

Again, Good luck! Are you going into fine art or communication arts (graphics)?
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Fine arts. I'll probably major in illustration or painting, or maybe even film. There's more money in design, but it's not as interesting to me.

#11 is a different kind of knife than the snap off olfa. They also have an xacto knife like that. http://www.dickblick.com/zz574/94/ I was wondering what makes one of them better than the other.

I have another question. My 3d design teacher wants us to have a mat knife on the first day of class. Does a snap off utility knife count as a mat knife?
 
I've used the x-acto and the Olfa and prefer the Olfa. It feels more substantial in the hand. Either one should be ok for a mat knife. A real mat knife cuts vertically or at an angle and is a special tool you either push or pull along a straight edge. Here's a link showing what one looks like.
[URL="http://www.logangraphic.com/i/p-pull.jpg"]http://www.logangraphic.com/i/p-pull.jpg[/URL]

I'm guessing that's not what you will need your first day. Take the utility knife and play dumb. You will definitely need it for other classes and may not have to purchase the fancy mat knife.

I just remembered that I kept a small pair of pliers in my "art case" (tackle box) for snapping blades. A small leatherman would be great for that, and you can cut stuff with it too! More food for thought
 
Your 3D teacher wants you to bring in the first knife that I linked to.
Say Mat knife in a studio and that's what you get.
Good ol Olfa handle with snap off blades. I snap the blades off on the table top, but be sure to cover the end with a ruler, triangle, stapler...something. They jump up at your face everytime.
The tool that clw3 linked to is a mat cutter. That is used to cut beveled edges on mattes that go in picture frames. (I hate cutting mattes ;) )
Confusing terminology, I know.

If at all possible DO NOT USE spray mount.
It is bad for you. Bad, bad, bad.
If you must make sure you use it in a proper spray booth.
That crap gets in your lungs, your hair, your eyes and all over everything.
Learn how to mix up some one coat rubbercement and you be a step ahead.
The fumes will still kill ya, but your room will be alot neater :lol:
 
Get the most basic X-acto knife you can and buy a 100-pack of replacement blades.

Seriously....you will come to appreciate a sharp blade!!!


I graduated from a private art college in 2000 (SCAD - Savannah, GA)...so I've been there/done that. If you are cutting matte boards...you'll want the standard X-acto. Cheap shank, cheap blades.


Do NOT get a snap-off blade - they are not good for cutting.



Think about it...you want your X-acto to be as sharp as possible, as often as possible. Which means = replacing blades...a lot.


Just my 0.02

YMMV
 
Also, IMHO....a "matte knife" is an X-acto with a heavier handle and larger blade.



There's also a dedicated matte knife made just for cutting bevels into matte boards. Awkward to use, but priceless if you need it.
(can't seem to find a pic...but it looks like a metal plate folded at 90 degrees...with a blade in the middle)



I 2nd the idea of putting your name on EVERYTHING.


I eventually got to the point where I was painting my stuff with bright yellow spray paint so that it was painfully obvious it was mine. Still had stuff "walk off" now and then. :mad:




Also...congrats on going to RISD!!! :thumbup:


I always thought that would be a good place to go...have even considered going back and applying to teach there. But then I'd have to live nearby....:eek: :o
 
Daniel Koster said:
Get the most basic X-acto knife you can and buy a 100-pack of replacement blades.

Seriously....you will come to appreciate a sharp blade!!!


I graduated from a private art college in 2000 (SCAD - Savannah, GA)...so I've been there/done that. If you are cutting matte boards...you'll want the standard X-acto. Cheap shank, cheap blades.


Do NOT get a snap-off blade - they are not good for cutting.



Think about it...you want your X-acto to be as sharp as possible, as often as possible. Which means = replacing blades...a lot.


Just my 0.02

YMMV
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I already got the snap off blade, but I also have xacto knives already.

Also, I found out you can get surgical knives cheap off ebay.

I thought about getting one of those mat cutters, but someone at risd said that the snap off blade counts as a mat knife.

Again thanks everyone.

RISD seems like a great school, the only negative reviews I get are from people who have never been there and are probably bitter about being rejected.
 
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