need some design input from y'all khukuri-nuts...

Very nicely studied designs, Dan.

I've never needed a short saw to make a notch. I'd cut or chop one in. So, for me, the hardening of the saw teeth and the fact that they take away from the baton impact area would suggest it is not necessary for fieldcraft.

The TB Tracker, in the opinion of folks who have gotten them, does three things marginally: draw, chop, and saw. It push cuts fairly well, I'm told. Push cuts are the least used in fieldcraft.

Were I asked, I'd say drop the saw, maybe drop the finger notch--depending on how long the blade is (the finger notch does give more control over a long blade like this), weight the blade to the chopping sweet spot, allow the draw knife blade to be the entire bottom surface, rather than another angle on the blade, and eliminate the false edge so that your fingers can be used to pull the blade for the draw knife application.

I prefer some point to the blade to penetrate the hide most easily.

I'd guess 2C and 3A would be my preferences of those illustrated.

But I may just have turned the design into a 12in AK.

The Tracker's allure seems to be more romantic than practical in my opinion.

Nice work. You keep evolving.
 
564309modifiedtracker.jpg


Here is the other photo that I was trying to post earlier.

Two other subtile design objectives:

1) The knife point is directly aligned with the handle; making any thrust\penetration that much more efficient.
2) The blade width is used to provide added safety. Although, there is no guard, it would be very hard for your hand to come into contact with an edged surface.

n2s
 
First of all, Dan, let me say I have the greatest respect in thge world for you and your craftsmanship.

Like my old drama coach used to say "First throw them a bouquet and when the bend over to pick it up, kick them in the butt.";)

There is a type of motorcycle called an "enduro". They come basically in two flavors:
1) A dirt bike you can ride on the street,
2) A street bike you can ride in the dirt.

Have you ever seen a "swiss army" knife that did anything really well (other than on MacGuiver)?

Keep the handle.
Keep the deep belly.
Lose the rest and win:D
 
Ok I will play...

I like DIJ's idea the best...Keep the handle as is and I do like the saw teeth but they could pose a problem with batoning


Here is an idea...How about a "system" instead of trying to do it all on one knife?? Kinda like the way a Karda and chakma compliment a khukuri?

my idea..
Small'ish utility knife 3-3 1/2 in blade length

Combo "chakma" with a file (blade repair and firesteel striking) on one side and maybe saw teeth on the edge (notching branches for shelter etc..)?? The end could look like the end of a wood chisel (gouging out chunks of dry tender)

I cant draw for crap, so is this idea making sense??
 
Hmph. It seem Kismet and I have similar ideas on this.

2C and 3A- and a little more pronounced guard, if you will. :)

John
 
2C with the guard from the hidden tang examples.

Or the first chiruwa before letters started, keeping the blade shape at the curved portion, getting the bottom straight edge lined up with the baton point on top, and adding the guard. I really like the way you do guards. I'm a little worried about how I'd sharpen it though. Maybe with a sharpened back edge...
 
For the rounded part after the draw knife i think you should make it more round for us a type of vine cutter or something of the like. Ipersonally would get ride of the serrations on the back and put them on the companion knife. I think they would just get in the way and be dangerous.

I think where the serrations are you should take not2sharps idea and have a raised hammer area for hammering pegs into the ground.

I would also make the draw knife a little longer to about 2.5 inches so you can easily use it on bigger branches and what not.

The false edge in my opinion would not be useful on a knife like this. False edges were made for combat. They would just get in the way.

So my overall opinion would be to make the rounder more round. Put serrations on companion knife. Get rid of false edge completely. Have a area to hammer on the back of blade. Make draw knife larger. Keep the big belly on the blade. I'd also throw in a lanyard hole on the butt.


Anyways though great design ideas.:thumbup: :)
 
Instead of trying to settle on just one set of design features, just take the two finalists and stick them end to end so you have a knife with the handle in the middle. The you really WILL have a blade that can do everything. And as an added bonus, you can make copies in 420 and sell them to Mall-ninjas as part of the 'Martian Extreme Combat Knifing System'. You can sell the knockoffs at the same stores that carry these:
extremetacticalcombatcrop4ll.png


PS - I'm not qualified to make a suggestion so I thought I'd offer some humour instead.
 
Well you've probably got your advice down by now, but I like 3A the best. Its got sexier curves than 2C. Those two are my favorites though. How are you going to finish this knife? I'd like to see some forging marks left on the belly. Sweetie design I think.
 
Just for comparison, here's a photo of the Tops Tracker ....

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I looked for a picture of the Dave Beck version, but couldn't find one. Did find this one by another manufacturer...

attachment.php



I love the idea of a hammering area on the spine of the blade. I think that would be a lot more practical than saw teeth. You could always carry one of the those small wire saws which takes up no space and works reasonably well.

Recently I did pick up the Tom Brown Scout, and think the world of it. It is now my EDC. Great little knife that feels very secure in the hand, and very stout for its size.

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edit ~ I like having a positive thumb groove on the back of the spine as well, like on the Scout. Also like the lashing holes just forward of the handle, as long as they don't jeopardize blade strength, which they shouldn't.
 

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I will say the Tops Tracker feels surprisingly good in the hand.

But, god, it's ugly.

John
 
I will say the Tops Tracker feels surprisingly good in the hand.

But, god, it's ugly.

John
Click to expand...

Beck's Pathfinder was a much more serious knife. It is a shame that they didn't use that one in the movie.

n2s
 
I really like the shape of the second one in the top series of pictures. Isn't that what you call a 'sub hilt fighter'? I would just say move the saw teeth a bit closer to the point, then you can have your batoning/hammer part near the hilt, more control and all that. I suppose that makes it like 1A, but I like the hoof shape hilt end on number 2, first set.
 
3C is my favorite.

3 things IMO

Tapered tang to keep the wt. forward.

Saw teeth closer to the handle so you can press down harder

Bottom flare of handle edge on bottom butt end extending further so you can snap it easier without it coming out of you hand, so you can kind of use it as a pivot.
 
Thanks for all the great comments and suggestions, guys. It is very much appreciated! And I do read each post very carefully.



Comments/Ideas I want to pursue/investigate:

Put second "integral guard" back in and remove first one
Lanyard hole
Separate sawback companion blade (or wire saw or folding saw)
Lengthening the handle just a hair / flare the butt



Random reactions/thoughts to comments:

"place to hammer" - the spine will be 5/16" thick near the guard(s)....hopefully that's enough "to get by". I'm not crazy about an upset area there as that will make finishing the blade surface difficult. Plus, holding this cardboard cutout edge-up...as you might imagine...it's not an efficient hammer. One drawback of the curved design.

"thrusting" - I'm envisioning this more for the outdoor enthusiast than combat situations. I'm sure you could use it "in battle" and the cardboard models seem to angle the blade right for thrusting...but not as its primary function.

"sharpening the choil area" - I've used knives like this and find them not as functional as the blade itself. Maybe somebody could give me an example (I'm open to the idea...just can't see the use yet...)

"false edge" - on this knife it would not be sharpened..or even sharpenable. I only put it there (on 4b) after thinking about using it to skin/gut/process meat, etc. Might be nice to have a slightly thinner tip. So, think of this as a blunt, rounded area that won't cut into your hand while drawkniving.

"tapering" - the tang will be tapered and the blade will taper from ricasso to the tip.

"thumb ramp" - I really want to keep the nice clean line from handle butt to tip...so as much as I like the thumb ramp idea (and I do...BM Skirmish is my EDC) I can't work it in.




Keep 'em coming....




I've attached a picture sent to me by email.
 

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Dan, whatever you do design the handle so the knife can be held edge up as well as edge down.
When I've had the opportunity to skin large game I've always used the knife with the edge up, one of the drawbacks to the knife I designed and made for myself back in '74. My ideas for an outdoor knife have changed drastically since then.:rolleyes: ;) :D
 
Ok...spent some time at the drawing board...(despite have TONS of other stuff due...yes...have a problem with priorities if I can't get an idea out of my head...:rolleyes: :eek:)


..anyway, came up with these (and a top view as well).



khuktracker5.gif



The top view will hopefully give you a better idea about the tapering I'm shooting for. 5/16" at the guard, 1/4" for the sawback area (which will actually have the teeth "set" out to around 5/16"...;))...5/32" near the tip, and down to 1/8" back at the butt of the handle.



5a - shows a new tip - more "nessmuk-ish". and a return to the two-guard system (not a sub-hilt, btw..only for choking up). Added jimping and yes, a thumbramp. The handle has been lengthened and the sawback moved back - but positioned out of reach of a thumb when in pinch-grip.

5b - (mostly handle stuff) I agree with Yvsa that the edge-up grip should be improved. So I made the handle a little more symetrical and not as dropped. Look hard at both 5a and 5b and you'll see it's not as "curved".

5c - brought back the flat area for drawknife use. Now showing the tapered front of the handle. Still has jimping on both the thumbramp and near the front of the handle.








This 2nd image is to give you an idea of some of the variables I am trying to control, while designing the knife, etc.

I want the skinning area to clear the sawback and the sawback to clear the handle and tip. Also, it shows "ideal finger cross-sections" *** for both edge-down and edge-up grips.


khuktracker5c.gif




*** Note on the finger cross sections:

If you close your fist, leaving about a 3/4-inch "gap" inside...this is what I've captured in this drawing = that your fingers form an "Arch". This is why straight-handled knives don't provide as good of a grip as those with palm swell. Yes, a straight handle allows more flexibility in grip positions, but at a cost. Look at all the top cutting competitors...nearly all of them area using handles that have considerable palm swell. As do many ethnic/traditional knives..puukkos, seaxes, bolos and, of course, khukuris. :p
 
Just sitting here thinking....came up with 5d:

khuktracker5d.gif



Decided to lengthen it out to 14.5" overall (5.75" handle). Beefed up the blade belly a little, and flattened out the area before the skinning edge up top.


Time for a break.....been looking at it too long. Also, time for another cardboard model....*sigh*
 
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