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They sell guide rods up to 15 inches long now.
New from Worksharp: Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener
- Thread starter AFAustin
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They sell guide rods up to 15 inches long now.
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SWEET! Nice system big range, useful tools.
Exactly. That's a limitation of this tool. One reason I freehand sharpen is that--even though I'm under no illusion that I can produce a perfectly flat, non-convex, perfectly consistent edge at a given angle--at least I can get my edges down to the low angles and performance that I want. Even if they're a little glitchy in places.
It seems like to get a guided sharpener that sharpens to really low angles, you have to buy some expensive exotic tool like Wicked Edge. Even then, with W.E. you still have to add their low angle adapter to get below 15 d.p.s. Nice tools, but way overkill for the average user and non-pro sharpener. This tool would be 10x more useful--in fact it would be a total Sharpmaker killer--if they just added 2 things: (1) The ability to sharpen down to 10 d.p.s. (including on small/thin bladed knives), and (2) More sharpening media options.
They've said they plan to add item (2). Don't know how good they are about taking user feedback, but it might be worth giving them this feedback and see if they'd consider supporting lower angles.
Just a case in point for the benefit of freehanding vs tools like this which can't handle low angles. Sharpened this cheapo Victorinox paring knife from our kitchen. Has a skinny blade like the above Kershaw, so you couldn't set it below 19 or 20 d.p.s on this Worksharp sharpener.
Took my Baryonyx Arctic Fox stone, just spent 5 minutes sharpening this to a low angle, about 12 dps. Didn't bother to refine the edge, point was just get it sharp enough to equal the results with the Spyderco in the earlier post (shaves, push-cuts thru 6 to 8 inches of receipt paper, whittles a curl into surface of receipt paper). It ain't pretty as the blade was so dinged up when I started, but it's nicely sharp for kitchen use. Personally this is so easy I'd rather freehand than use tools for jobs like this.
Took my Baryonyx Arctic Fox stone, just spent 5 minutes sharpening this to a low angle, about 12 dps. Didn't bother to refine the edge, point was just get it sharp enough to equal the results with the Spyderco in the earlier post (shaves, push-cuts thru 6 to 8 inches of receipt paper, whittles a curl into surface of receipt paper). It ain't pretty as the blade was so dinged up when I started, but it's nicely sharp for kitchen use. Personally this is so easy I'd rather freehand than use tools for jobs like this.
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I have the same Victorinox paring knife. (I think I bought it as a second many years ago.) Easy to sharpen but doesn't hold an edge very well. At least mine doesn't. Maybe it was a second due to an inferior heat treat.
My wife likes using it because she doesn't have to worry about dinging it up.
My wife likes using it because she doesn't have to worry about dinging it up.
Here's my personal Kershaw like the pic of the one posted earlier, sharpened with Artic Fox field stone and used an angle guide to 12 dps per side, meets all the sharpness tests I posted earlier. This one took 10 minutes.
Only reason I'm posting here is basically, if I can put a low-angle edge on skinny-bladed knives, anybody can. I'm not a pro freehand sharpener. I think this Worksharp I reviewed is a fine tool--if you want a guided sharpener. But it's also not necessary. It has a lot of limitations, like the low angle limitation we've seen here, also it's very easy to mess up your stroke while using it. Freehanding is just as fast and effective, if folks just invest a little practice time, buy a couple cheapo folders and kitchen knives, and practice. Just pointing out options. Out...
Only reason I'm posting here is basically, if I can put a low-angle edge on skinny-bladed knives, anybody can. I'm not a pro freehand sharpener. I think this Worksharp I reviewed is a fine tool--if you want a guided sharpener. But it's also not necessary. It has a lot of limitations, like the low angle limitation we've seen here, also it's very easy to mess up your stroke while using it. Freehanding is just as fast and effective, if folks just invest a little practice time, buy a couple cheapo folders and kitchen knives, and practice. Just pointing out options. Out...
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How the stones are secured in the stone holder?
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Work Sharp has all three 4"x0.5" stones as separate products. But how exactly you can remove one stone and attach a new one?
You have to slide the whole sharpening block off the steel rod, then you can pop the stones out of that block and replace them individually. As you say, they show they will (eventually, but now now) have replacement stones on their website. No replacement stones come in the box though. Would be nice if they eventually add more grits and sharpening media.
https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sharpeners/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/
https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/sharpeners/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/
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^Yup. They're cheap!But if you wanna put anything less than a 15 dps edge on these guys, or any similarly shaped paring knife, the Worksharp sharpener here can't help you. Freehand it is.
You think by now they'd design one of these that clamps the handle instead of the blade so you can go right down to zero if you want. If I can figure it out, they sure can hire somebody to do so as well.
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It makes em easier to sharpen, try using the coffee cup method. I love my Vics in the kitchen, but they do need frequent touchups.
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Fortunately, in the room I'm sitting in while typing on the laptop, I have a Sharpmaker set up pretty much permanently on a table by the window. So I usually give her collection of Victorinox, Boker or Tramontinas a quick hit on the ceramic when they skate on my thumbnail. (She won't use my "good" kitchen knives from Jerry Halfrich or Murray Carter.)
It's funny that in all these years of reading about you and others using the coffee cup method, I've never actually tried it out. Maybe I'll do that this week for a change of pace.
It's funny that in all these years of reading about you and others using the coffee cup method, I've never actually tried it out. Maybe I'll do that this week for a change of pace.
Blues, it's funny you mentioned Sharpmaker. So as I said earlier, I've used SM for years to handle a variety of jobs, ranging from knives I want to do quick and don't care much about, serrated knives, etc. I've gotten aftermarket stones from Congress tools (SiC stones) that cut really fast and let you reprofile blades to 15 dps *many times* faster on SM than with their ceramics or diamond stones. Honestly it's still a great tool for all those jobs that for any reason, I don't want to freehand.
I was curious about this new sharpener because it was (a) within reach of the average person, cost-wise, and (b) was a more interesting design than I've seen on most lower priced sharpeners. So I wanted to test it out to see if it could surpass Sharpmaker. It did do a pretty good job on reprofiling my Spyderco, as I said in thread.
But after using it a few days...it is not very versatile. I still think ultimately, Sharpmaker is a better, more powerful tool, even though limited to only 2 sharpening angles. I returned the Worksharp. Sharpmaker is still my go-to for all non-freehand jobs.
ETA, the main reasons why I still prefer Sharpmaker in the end:
* Availability of more sharpening media. You can go to Congress Tools and get a variety of 3rd party, 1/2" x 6" triangle stones that fit SM, in addition to the diamond, CBN, and ceramics you can get for it.
* Not limited by blade width. While SM has only 2 angles --15 dps and 20 dps--it is not limited by blade width as the clamp-based Worksharp is. Worksharp simply can't handle narrow blades unless you're willing to go with a higher angle for your edge.
* Inconsistency in the strokes due to the sharpening block design. Often, depending on the type of steel in the blade, the sharpening block sort of "sticks" or "hangs" as you're making a stroke, causing it to rock or tip, which then grinds uneven spots into your blade. This varies a lot by steel, and while you can alter the pressure to reduce the problem, and you can improve your skill at using it, it still occurs. In the end, I think this sharpening block is overcome by the laws of physics. It's just too small and light to enable a consistent smooth stroke across any blade.
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100% agree. Like ToddS said, what's really the point of these things if the lowest angle is 15 dps (for me, that's about the HIGHEST angle I'd want to put on most utility knives excluding stuff like machetes), and also, what's the point if you can't even put the 15 dps on any blade that is narrower? To me, it's a very self-limiting design. Seems like a lot of folks want more acute edges these days, and this thing is not great for that.
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I wonder if there's some way to remove the stock clamp and replace it with the small knife adapter from Tormek?
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M
maximus83
I have a handful of the Congress Tool AlOx and SiC triangle rods to be used with the Sharpmaker. I rarely use them, partly because the angles are not the same as the Sharpmaker stones, (due to minor size differences), and generally, I find it quicker to just sharpen the knife on either diamond or other hone and then put a finishing touch or microbevel on the edge with the Sharpmaker. (Sometimes I'm just lazy and do the whole thing on the SM.)
I have a bunch of gadgets, including the SM, the Edge Pro, and some other name and not so name brand angle guides / systems laying around the shack, but I find I rarely use them. The Sharpmaker endures for the simplicity, and ease of putting a finishing touch on. In fact, I used it a few minutes ago to make sure my wife's knives are all ready for Thursday.
I have a handful of the Congress Tool AlOx and SiC triangle rods to be used with the Sharpmaker. I rarely use them, partly because the angles are not the same as the Sharpmaker stones, (due to minor size differences), and generally, I find it quicker to just sharpen the knife on either diamond or other hone and then put a finishing touch or microbevel on the edge with the Sharpmaker. (Sometimes I'm just lazy and do the whole thing on the SM.)
I have a bunch of gadgets, including the SM, the Edge Pro, and some other name and not so name brand angle guides / systems laying around the shack, but I find I rarely use them. The Sharpmaker endures for the simplicity, and ease of putting a finishing touch on. In fact, I used it a few minutes ago to make sure my wife's knives are all ready for Thursday.
Good perspective! At times I've been interested in checking out the EP or the similar Hapstone, but have always been deterred by the cost (same with W.E.). I'm just interested in sharpening stones and tools, so more is always interesting.
What do you find most limiting about the E.P. approach, or put another way, why don't you use it more?
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It's just me. I have the Edge Pro Apex, (and most of the accoutrements, including the Diamond Matrix hones), and even have it fastened in place alongside my shop sink. It really couldn't be more convenient unless it sharpened the knives automatically and then cleaned itself off.
I think it's just that I somehow find myself disinclined to stand there pushing and pulling the guide rod across the bevel for a certain number of strokes, flip it over and do the same on the other side. Then wipe the blade, the table etc before changing the stone or changing the angle, whatever.
Perhaps its because years ago I scratched the faces of a few blades with it because I was too lazy to tape them up. (These were nice custom blades.)
Mostly it serves as a fall back / fail safe position...in that in the back of my mind I know it's there if I either have difficulty with, or screw up one of the knives freehand, or have a blade that requires putting on a bevel and edge from the get-go because it didn't come from the maker properly done. At least I know that I have a way of making it come out pretty symmetrical.
Bottom line, though, is that I'm probably a poor person to ask. It's just my nature to gravitate to the simpler, less fussy, and more direct methods. Maybe I'm descended from William of Occam (Ockham) or something...or just a Luddite.