One more question about True-oil and Boiled linseed oil.

SkagSig40

SkagSig40

Joined
Feb 1, 2001
Messages
2,671
Sorry to bring this up AAAgain!!!!!

Which one makes for the most durable finish for knife handles?

Also I read on a thread a long time ago that linseed oil dries out the wood? does that sound right? I have not used it because of this because the way I think of it is that if it dries out the wood it will crack it. Correct me if I have the wrong Idea.
I think I will start to work on my wood handles as I never have befor but I never had problems to cause me to start finishing them. I figuer I plan on keeping my khukuris forever so I better preserve them!:p Thanks O Bunch!;)
 
Chris I like the Tru-Oil best as I think it gives a prettier and More Durable finish.
The linseed oil works fine, but can cause clouding if too much at one time is built up in humid weather.
The Tru-Oil has better or more dryers in it making it much easier to use as well.
 
IIRC, Tru-Oil has linseed oil in it. :rolleyes:

I use Tung Oil.

This issue has been party to a long debate in the ShopTalk forum.
 
"Boiled Linseed Oil" can be a lot of different things, from exactly that, to a mixture of linseed oil and penetrants. None that I know of will dry the wood, but they don't make as good a finish as the tung oil formulations, such as Tru Oil or Formbys - Tru Oil is tung based, with a number of additives for penetration and fast drying. It is a gun stock finish, meant to be handled, and will last according to how it is applied, how many coats, and how much handling it gets. It should be protected by a few coats of good paste wax, such as Johnson's. Exactly the same can be said for Formbys, even though it is blended for a furniture application.
My hickory cane is finished with Formbys high gloss tung oil and Johnson's paste. I use it heavily, every day, and in eight months have only had to re-wax twice. My khuk handles are finished with Tru Oil and Johnson's, mainly because I believe Tru Oil lights up the grain to a greater degree than anything else I've run across to date.
 
Originally posted by Bill Martino
I use the sheep in the back yard.
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Eww grose!:eek::D he hehe

Ever heared of Rocky Mountain Osters? I hear they are good in the spring:rolleyes::barf:
 
Originally posted by Bill Martino
I use the sheep in the back yard.
Click to expand...

:eek: I hope it's not like that young lad in Afghanistan used his donkey!!!!:rolleyes: :p :eek: :barf: ;)

But who knows, maybe it's a Navajo thing and not too Baaaadddd.:p
 
Thanks for the input! Tru-oil it is! I'll buy some next time I'm at the store. I'll put on several coats...should I sand inbetween coats? If so what grit sand paper should I use?
 
Originally posted by SkagSig40
...should I sand inbetween coats? If so what grit sand paper should I use?
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Yes. I use 600 grit, but make sure you have a good supply of it as it clogs up quickly. after the Tru-oil application put a drop of armor all on the fresh oil coat and spit shine it. Voila! The Walosi treatment. The frog has the finishing process down pat!
( I put a theraputic coat on my Chitlangi handle last night )

BTW, Walosi, have you ever used Renaissance wax on handles? Lacking Johnson's, I tried it on the handle of my auction Sirupati to dress it up. It gave it a nice sheen, but I don't know about the long term durability. Do you have an opinion?
 
<b>I use the sheep in the back yard.</b>
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Stay away from that. You might end up in the gutter, calling all women 'Daisy' and drinking nothing else but Woolite :)
 
Yvsa and Walosi are the experts but here is a thread where I shared how I do it.
Woodchuckery

One thing that I've changed it that when I put the first two coats of TruOil on, I really slather it on, then sand it with some 1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. The wood dust combines with the truoil to make a paste that fills the pores of the wood somewhat. I then wipe the excess off that doesn't soak in in the first 5 minutes. For subsequent coats I rub on thin coats with my finger, letting them dry 1-2 days between coats. It's really relaxing to do this every night for a couple of weeks, and the results are fantastic.

Steve Ferguson
 
Wow. I like the back and forth banter here. You've got a perfectly good discussion on wood finishes, and there's a Monty Python skit about sheep running in the background. Nice and surreal.

Picnic tables' on fire,
Keith
En Ferro Veritas
 
Craig - I have a 2 lb. can of Johnson's that was here when we bought the house. Heckuva lot cheaper than R-wax, so I don't know how they compare for wear.

Ferguson - Leave it to a linthead stopwatcher to change things around:D Innovation is the spice life, and if it works, DO IT!! If not, use more 0000 wool:rolleyes:

All you.....pastoral types....Lanolin works best on horn handles...or horny handles if we're still on sheep jokes:footinmou

BTW - I use steel wool only, after the first two coats, in most cases. If the first sandings are complete, and get rid of everything you don't want, steel wool from there on saves a lot of expensive grit. Also, brushing down loaded 600 grit, to remove most of the dust/oil will give you something like 800 grit for finer finishing on the next handle, and removing scratches on the brass fittings,and the finer marks on rust removal, etc.
 
Originally posted by Walosi
Ferguson - Leave it to a linthead stopwatcher to change things around:D Innovation is the spice life, and if it works, DO IT!! If not, use more 0000 wool:rolleyes:
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Hey! I resemble that remark!

For those of you who don't understand, Walosi and I both come from textile mill jobs, thus the term "linthead". It's ok for one of us to call the other a linthead, but let someone else do it and "them's fightin words":D

Steve
 
"Fightin' Words"......AAAAHHHHCHOOO!!..
....filters are backin' up again:eek:
 
Apparently the Saudis don't process much cotton material. Even in the part of the plant where semi-finished goods are handled, as in the sizing area where they are put on heated forms and vacuum-sized in a draft, lint is a problem. These machines operate under hoods, which vent through powered ducts to the outside. There are filters in the duct system, to trap the lint, which is an irritant, very messy if left adrift, and like flour particles in a flour mill, can go KABOOM if things are just right. I was on the floor once when the mechanics were cleaning out the system, had locked open the anti-reverse baffles, and a STRONG gust of wind hit the roof vents. Coughed Kleenex for a week, and sneezed Q-Tips for a month afterward. If all the electrics hadn't been shut down, we could also have become astronauts.
 
I make my own clothes out of old bubble wrap and packing foam. A few more designs and I'll start my own line of "homeless wear". Fine, affordable fashions for today's young urban punk.

How is cotton dust explosive? Is it the same as explosions in grain elevators?

What's this got to do with linseed oil?
 
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