Practical Katana blade question

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Jul 9, 2001
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I just recieved a Paul Chen Practical Katana that seems to be a fantastic deal for the price. However, the blade is 1/4 inch thick, and the sword feels quite heavy.

I know in the advertisements that the no claims are made for the authenticity of the design. So I was wondering if it is typical for Japanese swords to be made from 1/4 inch stock? Somewhere or another I read once that a typical problem with reproduction swords is that they are often heavier than the real, historical swords.
 
1/4" thick, or even thicker at the machi (tang/blade joint area) is about right.

2.5 lbs of steel going 2.5 feet in front of you can feel really heavy until you practice with it :)

Enjoy your sword; me wants one too!
 
Katanas were typically 7-8mm at the base. A 1/4" katana is actually a bit on the thin side, but still historically accurate.

While many reproductions are too heavy, repro blades are usually thinner than antiques. That probably doesn't seem to make sense. The problems is two fold, repro blades tend to be the same thickness from base to tip, which was rare with historical pieces. Second, repro swords tend to have huge, fantasy guards and pommels which adds unnecessary weight.

To novices, a sword may feel heavy because they are fighting the weight instead of using the weight. As you get more familiar, you will get used to let the sword's momentum and balance work for you, and it will feel much lighter. This is where the bokken comes in handy. You can become familiar without cutting yourself.
 
Hello Crayola,

I ordered the Practical Katana from eBay. It was advertised by a retailer in Houston, Texas. The price was only $119 plus $14 shipping. The shipping to Canada might be higher - I didn't notice.

It sure does seem to be a good deal for the money. The sword looks like a real, user sword - not some outlandish fantasy sword based on a comic book story. It is similar to the Kris Cutlery swords - plain but functional.

I bought it after having read positive things about the Practical Katana on the internet (bladeforums and elsewhere). The earliest models of this sword had some serious problems, but the new models are said to be much improved, and now of acceptible quality for a functional sword.
 
Thanks for the good responses guys!

A sword can feel heavy when you hold it in an uncomfortable position. Obviously if you're practicing niten ichi ryu or some other 2-sword school, the kamae will get really really tiring after a while with such pieces, but that's why even bokuto were made thinner for that purpose. However, once you grip it right and start to use it right, it will feel better.

Of course, it's far from perfectly balanced, it's no dream kat. However, unless you got a lemon, the balance should be fairly reasonable. Just out of curiosity, could you measure the center of gravity on the sword? Just find out what point it balances on, and measure the distance from that point to the top of the tsuba/guard (just to make things convenient). In this way, we can make sure you didn't get a lemon and indeed have a bit more "typical" piece.

PS: Anyone know a good therapist or someone who would trade psychiatric advice for sword advice? Heh...stressful week for me :(
 
i'd like to know why many of today's cuttlers don't seem to want to make a lateral taper on swords and long knives. it's a great help in putting the center of gravity nearer the hand and will make the sword/knife more resistant to breaking.
 
Hello Robert,

The balance point is six inches in front of the tsuba.

Thanks for your help.
 
I forgot to ask, would you guys recommend getting the Practical Wazikashi (not sure if I spelled it correctly)? This is the shorter sword - twenty inch blade, I think.
 
Does anyone here have both the Practical Katana and a Kris Cutlery Katana? If so, how do they compare aside from the obvious stylistic differences?
 
Hank:

A lot of makers are taking up significantly more interest in the importance of tapers, distal and profile. There are many reasons why tapers are helpful, and the better makers have been utilizing them for some time. Of course, for cheap stuff, it's not quite as easy to do while keeping costs down.

W.T. Beck: 6" isn't too bad, it's more on the "outer range" of where balance should be, but it's not unreasonable. Many swords are around 4-6" and anything between there is within reason.

As far as the Practical Wakizashi, I dunno. I've never handled one, but I would assume that if you want an inexpensive wak, it would probably work well.
 
Originally posted by Benjamin Liu
Does anyone here have both the Practical Katana and a Kris Cutlery Katana? If so, how do they compare aside from the obvious stylistic differences?

Quality: 'Chen blades (when purchased from a reputable dealer) are of higher quality and have much better post-sale customer service.

Edge holding: All entry-level 'Chen Katanas (Shinto, Golden Oriole, Musashi, Practical Katana, etc.) are made of forged railroad track, which is typically AISI 1075. I'm not sure, but some reports state they're made of AISI 1095. The last 2 digits roughly represent the carbon content. 1075 means ~0.75% Carbon, 1095 means ~0.95%. Kris Cutlery (KC) blades are all made of AISI 5160 Spring Steel. Again, the last 2 digits mean it's got ~0.60% carbon. The lower carbon content means it doesn't hold an edge as well.

Toughness: KC's use of adequately well heat treated 5160 means that although it won't hold an edge as well, it is much tougher, due to the addition of Chromium.

Fittings: The Practical Katana (PK) has much better, traditional-looking fittings.

At the moment, that's about all I can think of... :D
 
I would have to disagree with you about the lower carbon content meaning lower edge holding capabilities. It can be true if you fully harden both of them in the same way, simply because more trapped carbon = more martensite. However, this also makes it more brittle, and increases the need for a longer and more thorough temper. A steel like 5160 has more than sufficient carbon to harden to or beyond RC 58, which is what many consider to be an ideal edge hardness. Of course with these steels you don't need to worry about carbide formation or anything of that nature, so we can keep it simpler.

Ultimately it winds down to the heat treat. Many treat it as a static process that yields static results (aka this steel is better than that steel), though I personally disagree with that line of thinking. However, a generic heat treat on 5160 is actually more forgiving to inaccurate timing and temperature than steels like the higher 10**.

Personally, I like 10** steels a lot when they're really clean, and I wish 5160 were more rare because I tend to like unique stuff the most.

But as is the case with most blades, it's not the steel but who does the work. I would say on the average, they're both good enough to use, but I tend to like the aesthetics of the mid-range Hanwei pieces more (though that doesn't say a whole lot). I especially like the fact they're dismountable. I would also hazard a guess that they hold a slightly better edge than the KC stuff also, likely due to the heat treat as a result of the sword's intention. Really, would you want a potentially chippable edge on a sword that your customers use for whacking brush and plywood targets? Maybe it's different now, but I'd like to hear new KC stories and see new KC blades, so we can change that view if necessary.

KC got a lot of extra attention in the last few years particularly from SFI. I don't know if the attention was really deserved, or people were just desperate to see the Hanwei empire lose some of its ground to an underdog like KC (sorta like how some computer geeks want to push non-microsoft operating systems).

Unless you get a lemon, either manufacturer makes a good "quality" blade, assuming we let the aesthetic pleasantries slide. I much prefer the looks of the Hanwei models, though I think with a lot of work, either sword would make a great project.
 
I am just glad to find that there are some good swords I can afford on my currently very limited budget.
 
Hibuke, what do you mean by reputable dealers? Do some people sell fakes? I have seen a mall store selling fake (United?) CAS Iberia full tang katanas and saying they were CAS Iberia.
 
--"Grow Stronger!"--Herger, 13th Warrior.

Tapering, distal tapering....The makers that I've run across that preserve the distal taper are Arms and Armor, and Himalayan Imports. they have actual smith working, that understand the principles of big blade manufacture. Both makers also make ample use of fullering, differential tempering and heat treats, and warranty their work (uncondtional Guarantee in HI's case). Hi does make a varity of katanas and other swords, including a Tarwar variant, and the limited-run Falcata. The HI falcata is the only one that I've found that accurately repros this ancient sword variant.

Keith
 
Hi does make a varity of katanas and other swords, including a Tarwar variant, and the limited-run Falcata.

This is suprising. I was looking at the HI website not long ago and saw maybe two items I would call a sword. There was the Everest Katana and another type - maybe the Tarwar? I don't recall any other swords appearing on the site. There were fancier versions of the Everest Katana, but all appeared to be the same basic sword.

HI does sell some long narrow khukuris. Are these considered to be swords?
 
Originally posted by W.T. Beck


This is suprising. I was looking at the HI website not long ago and saw maybe two items I would call a sword. There was the Everest Katana and another type - maybe the Tarwar? I don't recall any other swords appearing on the site. There were fancier versions of the Everest Katana, but all appeared to be the same basic sword.

HI does sell some long narrow khukuris. Are these considered to be swords?

Being the best (in terms of cost, quality, customer service and guarantee) knife/sword supplier on the planet (*TAKE INTO ACCOUNT ALL OF THE ABOVEMENTIONED QUALITIES*) HI do have a few swords, though yes, you are right, 2 of them (the Tarwar and the Katana) are regular products. The Falcata, as was mentioned (in case you didn't notice) were limited run items, and if you took the time to look at the pics instead of heading straight for the online store, you'd have noticed the statement that said:

"If you don't see the item you want listed on our shopping site (under contruction) that means we are either currently sold out of that particular model or are in the process of posting it to our shopping site so please email us to order or get on the wait list."

As for the long, slimmer Khukuris, they can function however you want them to. The 25" Kobra is a good example, with speed up the whazoo and as tough as any regular Khukuri...
 
WT, I would consider the ones in the 21" + range to be similar to short swords, with the exception that the long khuks are much sturdier than other short swords I own.
The smiths in Nepal (Kamis) make the Khuhuris very spine thick, but fullering and the distal tapering keep the khuk feeling alive in the hand. If you had blade on blade contact with a khukuri, I'm confident the khuk would win (if there is a winner in blade to blade contact).

Check out the 21" Gelbu Special, and you'll see what I mean. Generaly the longer the model, the less severe the blade angle is. Kinda reminds me of a wakizashi, bent the other way.

in the 15" to 18" range, these khuks are like the Himalayan bowie knife. 1+lbs, and vorpally sharp.

Keith
 
I wish you guys had not mentioned HI! I looked at their website and noticed that there is a 20 percent off sale for August. This morning I ordered a BAS. Others are very, very tempting.
 
I was wondering what are the differences between the Practical Katana, and the Practical Katana Plus? Also, is this a good answer to a functional Katana for the poor guy (I mean me:( ) I am interested in getting a functional sword, but will be to old to lift it if I save for the higher end swords. Thanks, Reagan
 
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