Question for you guys

Didn't really want to wade into this, but I will say, anecdotally, to Cobalt, that I have one of those Boss Jacks, which I thought would be difficult to use, but after some battoning and general use over the course of one weekend, it seemed sharper and the coating started to smooth, all of a sudden making it more "knife like" if that makes sense.

I've always found there is a little breaking in period with my Busse's. Part of that is on me, because I'm figuring out how I like to use individual models etc, and some may be because they leave you enough steel to decide if you want to thin the edge or not. So far I have not needed to do that. As long as I use them and hit them with a hone once in a while, they've never not cut what I needed them to.
 
nydude said:
Didn't really want to wade into this, but I will say, anecdotally, to Cobalt, that I have one of those Boss Jacks, which I thought would be difficult to use, but after some battoning and general use over the course of one weekend, it seemed sharper and the coating started to smooth, all of a sudden making it more "knife like" if that makes sense.

I've always found there is a little breaking in period with my Busse's. Part of that is on me, because I'm figuring out how I like to use individual models etc, and some may be because they leave you enough steel to decide if you want to thin the edge or not. So far I have not needed to do that. As long as I use them and hit them with a hone once in a while, they've never not cut what I needed them to.
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Mine is totally stripped and I have a screaming edge on it. That thing splits wood so easily it is not even funny. I think the convex grind does help in that, but it is certainly not a slicer.
 
Here's something I always wanted to toss into a conversation as this- When it comes to smaller blades and Busse, I seem to revert back to a couple that have stuck out to me that would seem to do those smaller tasks or tedious "Bushcraft" jobs as it's referenced which I don't totally get - but 2 that would seem suited are the Sus Scrofa and the Trail Scalpel, which I do desire to eventually own one of. I'm sure there are others that many would turn to but I am still a student and learning <--- being a piglet is always my go-to out on any particular subject as this :D
 
Leonardo63 said:
Here's something I always wanted to toss into a conversation as this- When it comes to smaller blades and Busse, I seem to revert back to a couple that have stuck out to me that would seem to do those smaller tasks or tedious "Bushcraft" jobs as it's referenced which I don't totally get - but 2 that would seem suited are the Sus Scrofa and the Trail Scalpel, which I do desire to eventually own one of. I'm sure there are others that many would turn to but I am still a student and learning <--- being a piglet is always my go-to out on any particular subject as this :D
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If it works for you then it is the right knife. If you have ever seen village indians in South America using machetes to do fine work you would be impressed. Even the little kids were using machetes. I was 5 and my gramps would not let me keep one, but I got to carry it around so I could act like the other kids. Those indians never got the letter that bushcraft can only be done with a certain kind of knife. Look at Nepalese using Khukuris for just about every manner of bushcraft you can imagine. I guess they never got the letter either. Both are well documented.
 
Makael said:
Just saw this in the General forum about Bushcraft knives.
I dont understand the finishing part. Every Busse has been perfect and needed nothing.




Busses are great... If you're keen on finishing the blank you get. Super tough knives tho, once you turn them into an actual knife.

I would recommend the knifemakers for sale area, and dont be shy about ordering something from, say, Poland... Mr Kornalski makes incredible blades for the money.

Also, from what I understand, 'upgrading' from an aurora may be difficult. I will second the Gossman sentiment, but thats pretty pricey for his smaller stuff. Best just save up and get Scott's prodigal child, the Tusker, or Big Boar Tusker if you want Gossman gear.

If you get a Busse, get one that's already been stripped and re-edged. Otherwise you will flow with salt.
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Makael, it might be very helpful if you would go back and edit your original post to indicate the portion that you 'quoted'. some folks were confused and though that was your own opinion.
 
Cobalt, w.r.t edge geometry, isn't a (or the) really important aspect the thickness of the blade immediately behind the primary V-grind edge? Busse and kin vary quite a bit in that aspect. If the edge angle is 60, 70, 80 degrees included, and the steel just above that is 0.40" thick, then that blade will feel 'blunt' for most uses.
 
you mean 0.04"? But yes, a large angle with a thick edge will feel blunt. But most busses are not that thick behind the edge because they are flat ground. The primary angle is very low, usually much lower than a low secondary bevel. A few are thick. I am not talking about CBT blades. Just regular flat sided blades. Unless your blade is convexed, trigonometry applies here.
 
I was one of the people that commented on the edges on busse and kin in the thread the quote came from. I like busse knives but at least 1/2 have had very thick edges, which I don't prefer for bushcraft... or any task really. The "blanks" comment that Makael quoted is excessive but many I've received could use a thinner edge for my preferences, and others for that matter (the latter based on what I've read on various forums).

I think the RMD is one of the better knives I've had that would be great for bushcraft but it did have a very thick, though sharp, edge. I ended up selling it in favor a an LT Wright Bushcrafter Mark II. LT is another very competent knife maker and falls more inline with traditional bushcraft designs, not to say Busse and kin can't do it. For me, it came down to preferences. I really liked the neutral shape of the broomstick handle compared to the contouring of the RMD.

Step the knife up a few inches where chopping might come into play and I haven't found something I like better than the ratweiler in terms of versatility. We'll see if the nano fusion steel heart does it, should be close.

However, for the price and for bushcraft/woodcraft purposes, busse & kin are not my go-to, in terms of recommending to others, though you will rarely see me in the woods without the rateweiler, unless I'm giving the 911 or Bk4 some pity time. Really, the 911 is pretty close in use, I just have nicer sheaths for the ratweiler and a lot more sentimental value. I actually think my Mark II and ratweiler would be about all I ever need for knives in the woods, but a bigger one is sure nice too (1311 is coming up fast as a love affair).

Cobalt said:
If it works for you then it is the right knife. If you have ever seen village indians in South America using machetes to do fine work you would be impressed. Even the little kids were using machetes. I was 5 and my gramps would not let me keep one, but I got to carry it around so I could act like the other kids. Those indians never got the letter that bushcraft can only be done with a certain kind of knife. Look at Nepalese using Khukuris for just about every manner of bushcraft you can imagine. I guess they never got the letter either. Both are well documented.
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Of course you can use many manner of knife for bushcraft, but in the threads where people are asking for suggestions, generally you suggest what is either your preference or perceived as ideal. If they asked, "will this butcher knife work for bushcraft?" I think you would find very different answers, and probably less cookie cutter as well since you'll see the same knives suggested frequently when someone asks for a recommendation for a specific knife use.

If money allows, buy what you can and give it a go. Find what you like and get closer and closer to what's ideal for you. I know you know that already because you've been around for a while and I've read plenty of your response but the machete and kuhkri references above are strawman argument.
 
bikerector said:
I was one of the people that commented on the edges on busse and kin in the thread the quote came from. I like busse knives but at least 1/2 have had very thick edges, which I don't prefer for bushcraft... or any task really. The "blanks" comment that Makael quoted is excessive but many I've received could use a thinner edge for my preferences, and others for that matter (the latter based on what I've read on various forums).

I think the RMD is one of the better knives I've had that would be great for bushcraft but it did have a very thick, though sharp, edge. I ended up selling it in favor a an LT Wright Bushcrafter Mark II. LT is another very competent knife maker and falls more inline with traditional bushcraft designs, not to say Busse and kin can't do it. For me, it came down to preferences. I really liked the neutral shape of the broomstick handle compared to the contouring of the RMD.

Step the knife up a few inches where chopping might come into play and I haven't found something I like better than the ratweiler in terms of versatility. We'll see if the nano fusion steel heart does it, should be close.

However, for the price and for bushcraft/woodcraft purposes, busse & kin are not my go-to, in terms of recommending to others, though you will rarely see me in the woods without the rateweiler, unless I'm giving the 911 or Bk4 some pity time. Really, the 911 is pretty close in use, I just have nicer sheaths for the ratweiler and a lot more sentimental value. I actually think my Mark II and ratweiler would be about all I ever need for knives in the woods, but a bigger one is sure nice too (1311 is coming up fast as a love affair).



Of course you can use many manner of knife for bushcraft, but in the threads where people are asking for suggestions, generally you suggest what is either your preference or perceived as ideal. If they asked, "will this butcher knife work for bushcraft?" I think you would find very different answers, and probably less cookie cutter as well since you'll see the same knives suggested frequently when someone asks for a recommendation for a specific knife use.

If money allows, buy what you can and give it a go. Find what you like and get closer and closer to what's ideal for you. I know you know that already because you've been around for a while and I've read plenty of your response but the machete and kuhkri references above are strawman argument.
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Nothing wrong with commenting on edges. It is another person who took it to the next level, not you. I am sure we agree on more than we disagree.
So here is how I look at things. Have I gotten edges I did not care for over the years with Busse products. Yes. Edge sharpness consistency has been an issue, but not a huge one. Although my satin Busses have all been incredibly sharp. My issue with what was being said is that, no one brought up faulty heat treat or processing leading to failures. I am sure I do not need to post the large number of pics of some of the other brands mentioned that have failed doing not so difficult duties. Do all fail? no, but a large enough number that it brings into question heat treat or processing consistency. So in the end, I would rather have a blade that I have to put the edge I like on, but I can count on for a lifetime than a blade that will keep me wondering if I got the lemon. I am not willing to compromise on catastrophic failure and soso processing. As for edges, everyone should know how to put a good edge on a knife. Maybe not perfect, but you should be able to do that. If you need to send it to someone you can do that as well. People that sharpen do not charge a lot to do so. A Porsche Turbo that was sold with crappy tires is still a better performance car than a Volkswagen Beetle with Pirelli tires. You can get pirellis for the Porsche, but you cannot get the entire build of a 200mph supercar into that beetle without it being completely changed with no original parts. By the way, I put a 15 dps edge on all my Busses. It works well. My smaller busses get a thinner edge. I would rather reprofile a Busse edge than buy a BRK:)

At the end of the day, it is what you feel works best for you. But if someone is going to disparage one brand then maybe the point should be made to look at the failures of the others as well. I think it is a disservice to someone who is asking an honest question to try and steer them away from a brand that is likely far superior to other mentioned brand in steel and heat treat just because someone did not like the edge, which can be modified for 20 bucks by just about anyone. A crappy heat treat cannot be easily modified. I did not see anyone mention that in there. Likely because they owned the brands in question and do not want to look at what they have with a critical eye.

Your Ratweiler is one heck of a knife!!
 
Cobalt said:
Nothing wrong with commenting on edges. It is another person who took it to the next level, not you. I am sure we agree on more than we disagree.
So here is how I look at things. Have I gotten edges I did not care for over the years with Busse products. Yes. Edge sharpness consistency has been an issue, but not a huge one. Although my satin Busses have all been incredibly sharp. My issue with what was being said is that, no one brought up faulty heat treat or processing leading to failures. I am sure I do not need to post the large number of pics of some of the other brands mentioned that have failed doing not so difficult duties. Do all fail? no, but a large enough number that it brings into question heat treat or processing consistency. So in the end, I would rather have a blade that I have to put the edge I like on, but I can count on for a lifetime than a blade that will keep me wondering if I got the lemon. I am not willing to compromise on catastrophic failure and soso processing. As for edges, everyone should know how to put a good edge on a knife. Maybe not perfect, but you should be able to do that. If you need to send it to someone you can do that as well. People that sharpen do not charge a lot to do so. A Porsche Turbo that was sold with crappy tires is still a better performance car than a Volkswagen Beetle with Pirelli tires. You can get pirellis for the Porsche, but you cannot get the entire build of a 200mph supercar into that beetle without it being completely changed with no original parts. By the way, I put a 15 dps edge on all my Busses. It works well. My smaller busses get a thinner edge. I would rather reprofile a Busse edge than buy a BRK:)

At the end of the day, it is what you feel works best for you. But if someone is going to disparage one brand then maybe the point should be made to look at the failures of the others as well. I think it is a disservice to someone who is asking an honest question to try and steer them away from a brand that is likely far superior to other mentioned brand in steel and heat treat just because someone did not like the edge, which can be modified for 20 bucks by just about anyone. A crappy heat treat cannot be easily modified. I did not see anyone mention that in there. Likely because they owned the brands in question and do not want to look at what they have with a critical eye.

Your Ratweiler is one heck of a knife!!
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I've heard the stories of BRK and it's one reason I won't own one. Well, and their price. I can get a busse kin for that. Or an LT; I love LT Wright knives lately and his group seems like another really great group.

And I agree, touching up an edge if far easier than dealing with a faulty HT or a mislabeled blade. I've not had the experience for a whole blade HT mess up but have had some with a cooked edge. The cooked edged is easier to deal with but working out chips is still crappy compared to a re-profile. Unless that re-profile is on a rucki... that one hurt a lot. SO much edge. Now it slices like a 'chete.

My ratweiler gets around.
wq5lz2kl.jpg
 
Demon613 said:
I only use my Busses for slaying zombies, retaking Constantinople, and stabbing chicken nuggets.

Have I been doing it wrong?View attachment 1058938
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Ok so if one day you become a surgeon you'll use a butter knife instead of a scalpel to open a body (i read a lot of metaphor here)
I recently had a custom 3v, very thin, that i wanted to test
I like doing stupid things so i decided to cut coins hammering on it. It held so well (no marks) that i wondered if it could stand next to my god tiers BAe that the shoulders have been removed by a pro knifemaker. So i did the same with my BAe (i owned every busse models since the boss street)




So yes i can't hide i was a little bit disapointed and realised that i never read a busse model being made for specifics tasks (even if "bushcraft" is not specific) + if a 4/5" range knife can't resist well and can't be a good slicer, what are the advantages?
Not hating here, just an opportunity with this thread to share some confusion
 
Raoh67 said:
So yes i can't hide i was a little bit disapointed and realised that i never read a busse model being made for specifics tasks (even if "bushcraft" is not specific) + if a 4/5" range knife can't resist well and can't be a good slicer, what are the advantages?
Not hating here, just an opportunity with this thread to share some confusion
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Umm...There’s the Steak Knife. :D
 
Cobalt said:
If it works for you then it is the right knife. If you have ever seen village indians in South America using machetes to do fine work you would be impressed. Even the little kids were using machetes. I was 5 and my gramps would not let me keep one, but I got to carry it around so I could act like the other kids. Those indians never got the letter that bushcraft can only be done with a certain kind of knife. Look at Nepalese using Khukuris for just about every manner of bushcraft you can imagine. I guess they never got the letter either. Both are well documented.
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With regards to indiginous people thriving using only a big blade. What is true, for some environments. Indians living in a jungle, rely on machetes. And for their environment, a machete is gold.
And the Nepalese with their Khukri too. It works fine on that one tree, that grows in Nepal:D
But look at the Sami-people, who traditionally paired their small blade with a big one. The Puukko and the Leuko.
They spent their time, as nomads setting up camps as they went. When setting up semi-permanent camps and maintaining those camps, the combination of a big blade and a small blade was gold.

Same as me, when in camp, my big blade has its place. And my small blade has its place.
If I had my camp in the jungle, my setup may have been different. Same as if my camp was near that one tree in Nepal:cool:

Edit: p.s. I know that there are more than one tree in Nepal. There are several.
 
By the way, if one doesn't even see a point in using a small blade for working wood, then the perspective may be off, when discussing Bushcraft knives.
I get that a big knife can get the job done and so on. But many, many, manymanymany people enjoy the small knife for woodworking. My self included.
I would hate to be stuck with my Mountainmandu, if I wanted to produce a spoon. Or a good pothanger. Or a fork, for that matter.
 
Rasmus80 said:
By the way, if one doesn't even see a point in using a small blade for working wood, then the perspective may be off, when discussing Bushcraft knives.
I get that a big knife can get the job done and so on. But many, many, manymanymany people enjoy the small knife for woodworking. My self included.
I would hate to be stuck with my Mountainmandu, if I wanted to produce a spoon. Or a good pothanger. Or a fork, for that matter.
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Very true, maybe why chopsticks are so popular, lol
 
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