Ronin Katana

HuaWei Swords makes many katana using 9260 and the Kris Cutlery has made some in this steel as well. Imho, there is really nothing magical about this particular steel and with the proper heat treat/tempering, almost any good quality steel will make a tough katana blade.
The RDP blade is 1060 through-hardened steel which is a good choice for a general use sword. Dynasty Forge has done a good job proving that properly tempered 1060 can make for an extremely tough and capable cutter with their Musha line.

Unfortunately, Cheness has not made any improvements on a sword that was acceptable many years ago when there wasn't much competition. So what you get these days is outdated construction and fittings for a relatively high price tag by comparison. They've also added a worrisome disclaimer so you can't complain much about flaws and construction issues.

I personally think the Ronin Dojo Pro is a fair sword for a fair price. Nothing spectacular and not the best in it's class but for the price, you really can't complain much. I feel the weakest aspect about this model is the tsuka and tsukamaki, but these are fixable. You can read my RDP review here

-Josh
 
DRobertson said:
Even though i collect swords, I still use the heck out of them. Does the 9260 spring steel chip or roll easy? thanks.

p.s. which steel is best for heavy cutting?
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Depends on the hardness, but I wouldn't expect 9260 to chip. Rolling I'm not so sure of, but probably no worse than any other steel at the same hardness(whatever that might be).

I think it also depends on what you had in mind when you say "heavy cutting".

I believe traditional live blade practice uses rolled up tatami mats. Bamboo can be done, but despite the stereotype, a katana isn't designed for that. Whacking a tree trunk with it would be considered abuse.

I personally ordered a katana with a T-10 differentially hardened steel blade, giving up some toughness and lateral strength, but it should let it keep a sharp edge longer, plus it's more visually appealing with a natural hamon line.

I also never heard of what your budget is either.

If you want, you could sink maybe $3,000-$5,000 for a Howard Clark L6 Bainite katana, which should be the toughest piece available on the market. At least until someone offers one in SM-100. But again, I should put it out there that there isn't a magical "super steel". You put a blade through something it was never intended to cut and it will break at some point.

I say this with firsthand experience as in my early days back in 2009 when I first started getting into knives, my second purchase was a Spyderco Endura in ZDP-189 in which I badly chipped by trying to cut a mango pit with the "super steel" blade of the day. You then realize that a "super steel" is just steel with slightly better properties than other steels, and is still steel and not a lightsaber:D. I should just count myself lucky that the blade didn't snap in half when I tried it:thumbup:.
 
horseclover said:
So, you don't know. That's cool. My original post was directed to someone mentioning "9260 is the best commonly available katana steel I know". I then posted information I am familiar with. Apparently, no one reading here has an answer to what was a bit of a rhetorical question. If you or someone else can show the steel being used for sword production, aside from Cheness, I'd be delighted.

Cheers

GC
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I was aware of several manufacturers who use 9260 from my search on 9260. Nothin a google search couldn't confirm in a few minutes.

No matter what steel is used, the most important part is the heat treat. 9260 is almost fool proof.
 
Hello all, new to the forum myself. As to the original post, Ronin Katana seems to be a sound and functional blade, DRobertson. I have done much research myself, and look forward to owning one in the future. I have research most every brand/manufacturer there is. My research includes steel composition, heat temper treatment, sword reviews, manufacturer reviews, etc. There is generally a trade-off with steel composition as a softer steel will flex more, hopefully not taking a set. Said softer steel will not hold an edge as well, though. A harder steel is more likely to take a set, break, or chip, with a bad cut or cut mechanics. But this harder steel will hold an edge much better. That is why the #1 question the forumites will ask you is, "what do you plan on using the katana for?" The #2 question would be, "how much are you planning to spend?" Answering these two important questions will narrow the field considerably. As far as production katana go, for my money, I personally like the Ronin Katana. If your looking for a custom blade price range, well, the sky is the limit. There is no perfect sword, as has been stated already in this thread. I wish you luck Mr. Robertson in your search. And please let us know what you decide on! I look forward to a future review from you, good sir!

I would like to finish this with a nod to horseclover. I found myself smiling at your responses. I respect you and your opinion greatly after your input here on this thread! Thank you Mr. Horseclover, continue to help out the newbies like myself! We need your input! Thank you all, good sirs.
 
Has anyone owned/laid eyes on/handled the Ronin Katana Dojo Pro new 2014 models? I am curious as to how they differ for better or worse from their previous offerings. I love reviews! Post links if you have them, please. Keep in mind I have seen ALL of them if they were before this month. Not trying to hi-jack your thread here, DRobertson, I can see where this could be helpful to you as well. Once again, thank you all, good sirs.
 
horseclover said:
So, you don't know. That's cool. My original post was directed to someone mentioning "9260 is the best commonly available katana steel I know". I then posted information I am familiar with. Apparently, no one reading here has an answer to what was a bit of a rhetorical question. If you or someone else can show the steel being used for sword production, aside from Cheness, I'd be delighted.

Cheers

GC
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Yes, I do

Number 1: Huawei Sword (an ebay seller and chinese manufacturer) commonly uses 9260 in their mid-priced blades. Since I've never done (or seen) a destruction test with them, i can't comment on their durability, but I've owned one and it was well made, balanced and the finish was slightly better than my Cheness

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANDFORGED-...438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41714418c6

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANDFORGED-...252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415ea5dfb4

Here's a test that is NOT to destruction... someone do this with a 1060 blade

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC952ICHw1Q

Here's a short review

http://www.sword-forum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17269


Number 2: Shintogo Swords
http://www.tridentmilitary.com/shintogo/9260-sharp-swords.html

No experience at all with them, but they use 9260

There are quite a few others, but why beat a dead horse.
 
Horesclover was trying to show off and put others down. He ended up looking like an idiot. He is obviously uninformed on basics such as this. He may be knowledgeable on something, but not on this topic!!!!
 
yeah im in northern wyoming, and basically just cut things like tatami mats. Occasionally some very small trees/weeds. My budget is $350.
 
DRobertson said:
yeah im in northern wyoming, and basically just cut things like tatami mats. Occasionally some very small trees/weeds. My budget is $350.
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FWIW, my 12 year old Hanwei practical (gen4 PK) has been worthy and able to tackle these tasks (and more) and keeps trucking on as a general loaner at shows. Many hands have tried to mess it up, even on gravel.

Cheers

GC
 
Willie71 said:
Horesclover was trying to show off and put others down. He ended up looking like an idiot. He is obviously uninformed on basics such as this. He may be knowledgeable on something, but not on this topic!!!!
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This is a bit harsh. Mr. Clover did exactly what he said... asked a question that went unanswered. Then backed his statements up with fact. He posted links as well. He also corrected himself. While we all may not possess your level of metallurgical knowledge, I for one, feel that Mr. Clover has added positively to this thread. Questions that I had myself were answered here. I appreciate all of you guys. Thank you.
 
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Scotty2Hotty said:
This is a bit harsh. Mr. Clover did exactly what he said... asked a question that went unanswered. Then backed his statements up with fact. He posted links as well. He also corrected himself. While we all may not possess your level of metallurgical knowledge, I for one, feel that Mr. Clover has added positively to this thread. Questions that I had myself were answered here. I appreciate all of you guys. Thank you.
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it went unanswered until i answered it
 
Scotty2Hotty said:
This is a bit harsh. Mr. Clover did exactly what he said... asked a question that went unanswered. Then backed his statements up with fact. He posted links as well. He also corrected himself. While we all may not possess your level of metallurgical knowledge, I for one, feel that Mr. Clover has added positively to this thread. Questions that I had myself were answered here. I appreciate all of you guys. Thank you.
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I agree it was a bit harsh. I apologize. :foot: :foot: :eek:
 
Scotty2Hotty said:
You da man Willie! I respect the hell out of you and your knowledge and insight into metallurgy are extremely valuable here! Thanks ALOT for your input!
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I'm no expert on metallurgy, but am learning as fast as I can as it's fascinating. I started browsing this forum a couple weeks ago after making a 13" quillion dagger. I'm thinking about making a short sword so I have been learning about them.
I have a bunch of 15n20 without chromium, with low manganese, and use it for a lot of thin tough blades. I think that is what I will use, as the low manganese allows a great hamon. My other option is 1075. My 9260 is smaller pieces, so not appropriate for this project.
 
Willie71 said:
I'm no expert on metallurgy, but am learning as fast as I can as it's fascinating. I started browsing this forum a couple weeks ago after making a 13" quillion dagger. I'm thinking about making a short sword so I have been learning about them.
I have a bunch of 15n20 without chromium, with low manganese, and use it for a lot of thin tough blades. I think that is what I will use, as the low manganese allows a great hamon. My other option is 1075. My 9260 is smaller pieces, so not appropriate for this project.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Very interesting indeed. I always learn something from your posts. Thank you, Professor Willie!
 
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