Sharp Talk: Honest Musings and Mad Ramblings

Why not stay at a low grit until you are sure you got it nailed? 325 edge is a great working edge. Once you nail it 20 times out of 20 then move on up. Jmo.

Oh believe me, I use low grit edges a lot. A 300 grit diamond is among my favorites. One thing I like about carrying multi-blade traditional knives these days is I can tailor blades to tasks. So I can have one polished and another aggressive. Makes for nice versatility. :)
 
Why not stay at a low grit until you are sure you got it nailed? 325 edge is a great working edge. Once you nail it 20 times out of 20 then move on up. Jmo.

This^
Coarse edge sharpening is the foundation of everything else. part of the issue with consistency is that what appears flat is influenced by the depth of cut - you can have more angle variation pass to pass with coarse stone than with a finer one but visibly the bevel still appears as a single plane.

The other issue is that coarse stones are particularly susceptible to abrasive glazing and loading, which will make for a crappy edge no matter what else you do right - this could explain my diamonds are working better. Personally at very low grit I get much better results from India, Crystalon, Wet/Dry, than I do with diamonds for a stand-alone coarse edge, even on high VC steels.
 
If they start to glaze a quick pass with a diamond plate would refresh the stones cutting ability. I use diamond plates mostly. But I do have a 600 chosera that cuts pretty quickly. The more polished an edge is the more the "light is on" so multiple bevels scratches etc are much more visible IMO anyway. In the learning phase though it's beneficial imo (this is all in my opinion btw, no expert here) to constantly check the thumbnail for sharp. Just to make sure. Limiting the number of stones reduces variables as well. It ain't rocket science. But there's a learning curve. Proficient means you can put a good sharp edge on a blade. And for utility that's definitely good enough. Although that's up to the individual. If a blade cuts arm hair easily that is certainly good enough for me. Or get a paper wheel. Learn to use it. Then compare your hand edges to the wheel. That's what I did and do.
 
I did a couple of the smaller ones after work the last couple days but tonight I decided to tackle the big ole scimitar.

WOW!

That steep-bellied tip is challenging enough but then length just adds to the difficulty. I'm using 8"x3" stones (SiC and Arkansas). Fortunately the steel is of course very receptive but man the shape and size of this blade makes ya work to get a good consistent edge.

Have you tried sharpening a blade like this on a full sheet of sandpaper? To me it gives one more options. Half and third sheet lengthwise (4.5"*11" or 3"*11") are also worth trying.
 
Have you tried sharpening a blade like this on a full sheet of sandpaper? To me it gives one more options. Half and third sheet lengthwise (4.5"*11" or 3"*11") are also worth trying.

I haven't no. It is indeed something I'm considering for the next time though.
 
Well, FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades and Obsessed with Edges Obsessed with Edges , I reckon you nailed it. Pressure.

Tonight I sharpened up a new Kershaw Shuffle that I plan to gift tomorrow. Ground out the bevel on a Norton Crystolon Medium and then went to a Norton India Fine and then an Arkansas soft.

I paid particular attention to the pressure I used with the ceramics and I actually found myself subconsciously pressing down a bit. So I backed off and on my de-burring strokes I went very light and the edge off each stone was excellent.

:)
 
The way each unique stone formulation responds to different types and quantities of lubricant and what degree of pressure can take a bit of getting used to. I've come to the conclusion that--with rare exception--there's no such thing as a bad stone, just appropriate applications and techniques for that stone. A stone that's awful in one context or with one technique may be awesome if you change the application or how it's being used and cared for. Some stones that get labeled as "bad" may just have a formulation that makes them best suited to a very specific or unusual context or require very specific technique and maintenance to get the most out of it, but it can probably still be made useful for something. :D
 
Just work the larger blades in sections. I've mentioned this before, but everyone should sharpen a machete or three on a regular sized stone as part of a learning experience - it'll improve your entire freehand technique.


Good video!

I really need to get one of your Washboards.
 
FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades Would one of those exceptions be stones with poor abrasive grading or inclusions?

Depends. I mean, if it's not of uniform bond strength throughout, that would be an issue, for instance. Or a big ol' random piece of something in it that's not supposed to be there. But unless those flaws are something that are routine in the stone, calling it a "bad stone" as a commercial product doesn't make sense, as it would be more of a manufacturing defect. So the one unique example of that stone might be a "bad stone" but if someone was asking for stone suggestions for a given task and that model was an appropriate choice and not routinely defective, it'd be a good stone for the task. Does that make sense? Even in those cases so long as the thing doesn't fall apart on you it could probably still be used for abrading the seams on concrete castings or something.
 
Good video!

I really need to get one of your Washboards.


I'll be shutting down that part of the business shortly, as soon as my last batch of tops runs out (just cracked the shrink-wrap Sat). Will cost too much to keep making them, the shop that has been machining them said they'd have to charge 2x what I paid in the past as they were losing their shirts on the deal. At that price it is no longer competitive.

Will continue to offer the compound, replacement parts for the older boards, and sharpening service. As mentioned in the video, that technique will work with any stone and is a great way to see where your mechanics get sloppy.
 
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded Obviously it can be done in sections, and perhaps this would improve my technique as you say, but is this inherently superior to working on a larger abrasive surface? For the the scimitar knife being able to make large sweeping motions seems like the more natural approach.

For even larger blades like a machete I think I would try clamping the blade and using a hand stone, but I haven't had someone bring me one of those yet. Isn't that one of the historic sword sharpening techniques?

I just looked at the Washboard and I see it is almost my most-used size of 3"*11" anyway, so I guess you're not advocating 2"*8" stones and smaller.
 
I generally find that for large blades it tends to be easier to bring the stone to the blade rather than the other way 'round. Scythe stones are great for machetes.
 
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded Obviously it can be done in sections, and perhaps this would improve my technique as you say, but is this inherently superior to working on a larger abrasive surface? For the the scimitar knife being able to make large sweeping motions seems like the more natural approach.

For even larger blades like a machete I think I would try clamping the blade and using a hand stone, but I haven't had someone bring me one of those yet. Isn't that one of the historic sword sharpening techniques?

I just looked at the Washboard and I see it is almost my most-used size of 3"*11" anyway, so I guess you're not advocating 2"*8" stones and smaller.

I went with the larger size so it would make better use of a sheet of standard wet/dry. The biggest advantage to a bigger stone IMHO is not that you can do huge sweeps with it, but that you can spread the swarf and wear across a bigger area.

Yes on a big stone I might make a few "unifying" passes at the end but they are not required by any means. It is inherently more difficult to make big sweeps with accurate angle control than it is to work in smaller overlapping sections - the number of joint corrections goes way down as the travel distance shrinks..
 
M Mr.Wizard
here's an a walk-through of another machete project, no video. For this one I used the clamps and a mill file to establish a better bevel than the factory, then went back and finished it by hand.

Was on vacation down in NC and in the hardware store in New Berne came across some Tramontina Latin Pattern 18" machetes. In my area off the shelf am limited to Chinese stainless, or the occasional Ontario. Knew I'd kick myself for not buying one of these since the shipping is free. They do not have a distal taper, and are a bit more upswept than many, looked like it might function well as a heavy chopper for upland camping.

I've done this a couple of times, and figured I'd document it as I went. Much like the hardware store hatchet, a little extra attention to a stock machete can turn it into a tremendous cutting machine for its weight.

Was considering removing the grip and replacing it with beefy micarta, but the stock ones fit my hand too well to mess with - a little sanding and on to the next task.

Now she needs pants (or would that be a skirt?). My standard sheath is made from scavenged plastic sheet or a rubbermade trashcan. Had to use a $6 trashcan, officially putting me at $20 for the project but still have enough of the can do make 2 or 3 more sheathes.

Left to right - the blade itself, blade expanded at the heel for sheath clearance, pattern with 3/8" on all sides and a bump out for the carabiner. Second pic shows the areas that will have an additional layer between the outside panels for clearance. I leave it a bit tighter in the belly for added retention. These sheathes are very easy to make and add almost no weight to the tool.

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Cut the pieces out, clamp, drill, clip some aluminum nails short and peen them over for rivets, grind and sand the edges flush. Not the prettiest but these sheathes are indestructible and cut resistant. Have had a couple of close calls with canvas machete sheathes - I don't use them anymore. Was considering altering the shape but left it stock - didn't really think I could improve it any for what I intend.

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Clamped for file-work. Gradual removal of the wheel ground edge. Finished off by draw-filing it reasonably flat. At this point it was just shaving arm hair and could drawslice fine catalog paper. In the real world it's prety much finished, in my world its a good start.

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On to the 120 grit wet/dry, now shaving arm hair and shearcutting fine catalog paper.

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From there on to a quick few passes on 320, 800 grit wet/dry and finish on paper with compound. Edge is now tree-topping leg hair 1/8" above the skin.

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Here on out unless it takes real damage it might never see wet/dry or a stone again - will be maintained indefinitely on paper and compound like the Tram bolo who's job she'd like to take, the finish will become brighter over time as the last remnants of the filework and larger grind marks along the shoulder fade away. Will work her into rotation and see how she does, the 14" bolo wears some very big shoes in my collection.

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I avoid making sweeping passes because the edge bevel changes in the belly toward the tip. This causes a sharpener to do 2 items in that
area, lift and push in a sweep. Which can be hard to pull off accurately. DM
 
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Hello Sharpeners,

Well, since I seem committed to publicly displaying my shortcomings and sometimes ignorance, I bring you yet another installment. :)


"Slippery when wet..."

This is more of a continuation of the last installment about a month ago than it is something new. Last time I was lamenting how I sometimes am inconsistent on courser stones, specifically ceramics. It didn't make a lot of sense to me or the kind responders. The fellas cautioned me about pressure and at first, that seemed to help.

But, I work in engineering. I need to understand variables and I need multiple data points, preferably repeatable, in order to feel like I can draw meaningful conclusions. And the pressure thing didn't really hold up as the root cause as I generally am pretty conscious of that. Maybe, in that one trial I was extra careful or maybe I just convinced myself it made a difference or maybe I just got lucky. As I said, I don't suck with course stones, I just don't have the consistency I want. Once in a while I'll struggle to get a good edge, but surely do achieve them, so maybe this was just one of those times.

So what other variables are there between the diamond and the ceramics I was comparing? I remembered a thread I posted some time ago asking folks what they use to clean oil off their hands when sharpening. One responder seemed totally perplexed that this could possibly be an issue. He couldn't fathom how I could be getting oil on my hands. I, almost equally, couldn't understand how this perplexed him. And then...

Lubrication. With my diamonds, I use a spritz of glass cleaner or maybe even dry but with my ceramics and Arkansas stones, I use oil. What's more, a while back I transitioned over to the over-the-counter digestion type mineral oil that is thicker than honing oil. Further, being essentially self-taught from a young age and knowing I'd have a helluva time getting replacement stones, I've always erred on the more is better side when it comes to lubrication. My fear of "ruining" my stones far exceeded my concern that the lubrication would impede sharpening. I know, I know, but I'm being honest. I'd surely read and heard it over the years but dismissed it.

But now, I was really rethinking things. The courser ceramics soak up the oil faster than my Arkansas and the latter are more for honing than real sharpening. I was pouring on, and maintaining a pretty heavy slick. Over the last month I've been backing off that pretty substantially and targeting just a sheen or even just a reflection in spots.

And it's working. I know, I know, to many of you this is a "duh" moment. But ya know... :p

I did three knives today with excellent results and that makes ten or so and that's enough data points for me to feel like I pulled a lever and made something happen.

So, pressure is important, but you don't need to be killing seagulls and otters around your stones either. I'm actually surprised at how little I can get away with and not have harmful effects.

As always, thanks to everyone who comes along on this journey with me. :)

Overcast and nasty outside so not the greatest pics but here ya go...

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That's also why I prefer using a lighter, thinner oil, instead of the more viscous pharmacy-grade stuff. A heavy application of heavy oil does tend to get in the way of clean grinding on the stone, and more so as the oil gets dirtier with swarf.
 
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