Sheath Leather

There are only three ways of learning: 1) Your mistakes. 2) SOMEONE else's mistakes, or. 3) Not learning at all. A banner that stretches the entire width of the lecture hall at the CHP Academy. Just a thought.


Nice work Todd! Just an idea Nichole got me onto. On those initials at the top on the set of sheaths. Strike really light, ya want the outline of the letter only. Then use a small bar backgrounder and inlay the initials. They standout better and you avoid the stamp marks around the letter. We do that on letters, brands etc. Works pretty darn good.
 
There are only three ways of learning: 1) Your mistakes. 2) SOMEONE else's mistakes, or. 3) Not learning at all. A banner that stretches the entire width of the lecture hall at the CHP Academy. Just a thought.



Nice work Todd! Just an idea Nichole got me onto. On those initials at the top on the set of sheaths. Strike really light, ya want the outline of the letter only. Then use a small bar backgrounder and inlay the initials. They standout better and you avoid the stamp marks around the letter. We do that on letters, brands etc. Works pretty darn good.

Exactly my point Dave. As mentioned, you, Paul, and others are more than gracious with your time, help, and guidance by posting and stopping what you're doing to take phone calls from anyone looking for help. For that, I thank you all for your generosity.
 
Nice work Todd! Just an idea Nichole got me onto. On those initials at the top on the set of sheaths. Strike really light, ya want the outline of the letter only. Then use a small bar backgrounder and inlay the initials. They standout better and you avoid the stamp marks around the letter. We do that on letters, brands etc. Works pretty darn good.

I wish I'd read that before I finished my last batch over the weekend. I'm not sure I have a thin enough backgrounder but I'll definitely be looking for one.

My first couple sheaths were done with leather from Tandy, it worked but I don't plan on using it again. I've been using RJF leather since then, I don't know what the price per square foot is but I usually pay between 70-100 per double shoulder depending on the size.

I'd live to try some of the other premium leathers but I haven't done the research on where to buy low volume orders since I only get one double shoulder at a time for now.
 
You guys crack me up .. smh. The OP asked a pretty specific question. He didn't ask you're preferred tannery or your dislikes.
He (I assume the OP is a 'he') asked; best place online to buy veg tan leather at a low price.

True, but the best answer to a question might not be that convenient. This forum is mostly makers, to one degree or another, giving their thoughts on things they know about or trying to learn from those that do. Those with knowledge in a particular area might try to steer someone in a different direction if they feel they're headed in the wrong one or simply answer based on their own experience of having the same question at some point themselves. Even if it doesn't necessarily directly answer the question, it might just be the better answer or at least be useful to others reading the thread down the road.

In any case let's try to keep discussion friendly. No harm in different perspectives.
 
I wish I'd read that before I finished my last batch over the weekend. I'm not sure I have a thin enough backgrounder but I'll definitely be looking for one.

My first couple sheaths were done with leather from Tandy, it worked but I don't plan on using it again. I've been using RJF leather since then, I don't know what the price per square foot is but I usually pay between 70-100 per double shoulder depending on the size.

I'd live to try some of the other premium leathers but I haven't done the research on where to buy low volume orders since I only get one double shoulder at a time for now.

I'm not sure that volume orders has much to do with the price?--from what I've seen, most places are selling by the square foot, regardless of whether you buy a double shoulder, a side, or 10 of each (but maybe i'm wrong about that, since I only order doubles as I need them myself). I've been using Tandy up to this point, but it has been hit or miss on how it performs. I just ordered a double from Wicket & Craig today--the price was very competitive, IMHO. Looking forward to seeing how it compares to what I've been using.
 
I'm not sure that volume orders has much to do with the price?--from what I've seen, most places are selling by the square foot, regardless of whether you buy a double shoulder, a side, or 10 of each (but maybe i'm wrong about that, since I only order doubles as I need them myself). I've been using Tandy up to this point, but it has been hit or miss on how it performs. I just ordered a double from Wicket & Craig today--the price was very competitive, IMHO. Looking forward to seeing how it compares to what I've been using.

It's been a while but the first couple of orders I attempted from distributors were a full hide but looking at the W&C site it looks like they can be ordered direct from them, is that how you ordered it?

I'm happy with RJF, Roger is always very responsive and pleasant to talk to and the leather seems to hold tooling well. I'd definitely like to try some W&C leather also though.
 
To the OP. I would try to find a Tandy somewhat close to you. It may be a bit of a drive, but your chances of getting a little bit better piece of material would be greater. You will find that you need to look through the entire stack to find a decent piece. Look at both sides of the material. Take a leather thickness guage with you as well.
You probably will not get careful selection if ordered online.
 
It's been a while but the first couple of orders I attempted from distributors were a full hide but looking at the W&C site it looks like they can be ordered direct from them, is that how you ordered it?

I'm happy with RJF, Roger is always very responsive and pleasant to talk to and the leather seems to hold tooling well. I'd definitely like to try some W&C leather also though.

Yes, I ordered direct. I did not order the pre-dyed leather that a lot of folks prefer--so I'm not sure if that can be ordered in just a double shoulder or not. They were very friendly and easy to work with at W&C. Others have also recommended RJF to me, so I may give them a try down the road as well.
 
To OP:

I usually work with a broad spectrum of suppliers and in my experience (although limited) the amount of usable area is also important to think about. Also, building a friendly relationship with the supplier does help as they will likely remember the kind of leather that you prefer and send you similar alternatives. As for buying online, I wouldn't just rely on that. It is useful for items such as stamps, buckles and snaps. However for leather it can be hard to gauge its stiffness and true colour. My suggestion is to ask for some samples that your supplier think may be similar to what you are after by calling them up. They usually have too large an inventory to upload on the website so you are more likely to find hidden gems.

In terms of where to get it from, it depends entirely on the type of leather you are after. For example we are famous for our bridle leather (I get mine from the identity store and clayton leather), I've used some French suede and they were rather nice, in the US Horween does some lovely cordovan, the Russians has their wolf and bear pelts, Japan has their krozan and Thailand has some of the best exotics such as snake, crocodile and rayskin (I get mine from pelgio). A relatively lesser known country for its rich history in tanning is Morocco. Some boxer's champion belts for example were made using their leather.

In short, my suggestion is to call up the supplier and describe what you would like and ask them to send you some samples. I hope I don't step on anybody's toes when I say this but in my opinion the country of origin doesn't matter as much. I've had better results by cherry picking the good ones out.
 
Back
Top