Show your HDFK!

Nathan the Machinist said:
That ferro rod notch is a significant structural defect there. It cuts most of the way through the spine towards the fuller, creating a weak spot in one of the most highly loaded areas on the blade. I would not recommend people do this with their knife.
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That's a good point. Would that mainly make "this" knife weaker to side-to-side torque / having to pry something open in an emergency? What would be a better alternative if someone only wanted to carry a HDFK & ferro rod as the only means of fire starting? Would using the edge repeatedly in the scraping/striking motion not wear the cutting capability?
 
DrBC said:
That's a good point. Would that mainly make "this" knife weaker to side-to-side torque / having to pry something open in an emergency? What would be a better alternative if someone only wanted to carry a HDFK & ferro rod as the only means of fire starting? Would using the edge repeatedly in the scraping/striking motion not wear the cutting capability?
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While technically, it would, D3V is 60.5 hRc. A ferro rod is far softer. You really shouldn’t notice any appreciable effect to the edge from striking a ferro rod several times a day, to start a fire.

IIRC, some folks have also squared off a section of the spine, specifically for ferro rod use (which removes far less material, and doesn’t create a structural weak point, unlike a notch. Still need to be wary of NOT using power tools to do that, as it can easily heat the steel enough to affect the heat treat in that section).

***
Having said that, as mentioned in other threads, a Bic lighter is the simplest, most expedient way to start a fire. Ferro rods are fine as backup fire starting methods.

I like redundancy and backups, and my preferred fire starting backup is a Blastmatch, primarily because (like a Bic lighter) it can be used singlehanded (and is unaffected by submersion).

If I need to start a fire to avoid hypothermia etc., I prefer having options that will work even if one hand or arm is compromised.

I also keep ‘strike anywhere’ and Lifeboat windproof/waterproof matches in a small waterproof container, with sections of striker strips. Like I said, I like redundancy.
 
DrBC said:
That's a good point. Would that mainly make "this" knife weaker to side-to-side torque / having to pry something open in an emergency? What would be a better alternative if someone only wanted to carry a HDFK & ferro rod as the only means of fire starting? Would using the edge repeatedly in the scraping/striking motion not wear the cutting capability?
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That notch, that deep and in that location, reduces the durability of that knife by a large margin. Due to the proximity to the fuller, I would estimate probably by 50% or worse. The SDFK would have been a better choice for this treatment as would a shallower notch farther up the spine.

This will limit your margin for error when batoning, chopping, prying etc. In my opinion, this loss of functionality is a larger offset than having a dull area on your edge when striking. I personally would only use a ferro rod if I had to and I would not mind a slightly dulled area. But if I was using a ferro rod regularly I would probably carry a piece of hacksaw blade or similar for that purpose.
 
I kind of had it in my head that the forward part of the finger bay/choil could be used with a spark thrower, since it's pretty much the only non chamfered area and could be used with the sheath still covering the edge. Haven't tried it, but it was one of the various thoughts I had way back when
 
91bravo said:
I have bunches of pieces of hacksaw and Firesteel.com strikers in all of my packs. Like someone said, redundancy!
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Come to think of it, I don’t generally carry ferro rods, but if I were to carry one expressly for fire starting, I’d have the Silky Ultra Accel too (my favorite backwoods combo when I plan on firemaking; Silky Ultra Accel and CPK MC. As mentioned, I have the Blastmatch and storm proof matches as a backup, but fire starting is generally done with a Bic and dryer lint with Vaseline).

I’m sure the square edge on the back of the Silky saw would work fine as a ferro rod striker, if I went that route.

*** was on a trip a long time ago, with friends, when I realized that fire starting is about starting the fire, vs trying to show off my primitive fire starting skills, when I was using one of those magnesium fire starters, taking a minute or two, scraping magnesium shavings to prep to start the fire, and a friend who was a smoker, had this expression 🤨, pulls out their Bic and goes, “Isn’t this easier?”
 
bluemax_1 said:
Come to think of it, I don’t generally carry ferro rods, but if I were to carry one expressly for fire starting, I’d have the Silky Ultra Accel too (my favorite backwoods combo when I plan on firemaking; Silky Ultra Accel and CPK MC. As mentioned, I have the Blastmatch and storm proof matches as a backup, but fire starting is generally done with a Bic and dryer lint with Vaseline).

I’m sure the square edge on the back of the Silky saw would work fine as a ferro rod striker, if I went that route.

*** was on a trip a long time ago, with friends, when I realized that fire starting is about starting the fire, vs trying to show off my primitive fire starting skills, when I was using one of those magnesium fire starters, taking a minute or two, scraping magnesium shavings to prep to start the fire, and a friend who was a smoker, had this expression 🤨, pulls out their Bic and goes, “Isn’t this easier?”
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I’m always prepared to build fire, so I have a folding saw and large knife in every pack. Along with multiple ways to start fire as well.
 
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Kettleman said:
Brother I just couldn’t do it! I’ve wanted one for years and said the heck with it. Moving or not I’m keeping this one. And besides could there be a better desert hiking / camping knife?
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Well, then I guess it's lucky that the guy I sent your way this morning couldn't come up with the price. Congrats on coming to your senses.
 
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