Some comments on S30V (stainless CPM-3V) by Phil Wilson

Neil, let us know what you come up with!

FYI, I hardened my first blade at 1950 with a 30 minute soak and pressed quenched, hardness was 62Rc. Snap tempered at 350, cryoed, hardness 63Rc. Double tempered 2 hours each at 450 and a third at 425 and final hardness is 59 60 Rc. I am watching the epoxy dry as we speak.
 
That DOESN"T make it dry any faster :D

How do you compare it to grinding Talonite?

I also press quench so that will be the process, I'll use. I made water cooled press plates and tried them for the first time last week I found that they actually ran TOO cold with tap water. Next thing is a warm water source and some mechanical lab thermometers. For now I'll just continue with my HUGE aluminum blocks ;)

I'm looking forward to seeing my heat treat results as well as experimenting with finishes on it.

Neil
 
Originally posted by Rob Simonich
FYI, I hardened my first blade at 1950 with a 30 minute soak and pressed quenched, hardness was 62Rc. Snap tempered at 350, cryoed, hardness 63Rc. Double tempered 2 hours each at 450 and a third at 425 and final hardness is 59 60 Rc. I am watching the epoxy dry as we speak.

Rob, can you explain what "pressed quenched" and "Snap tempered" mean? Thanks.
 
rdranger, press quenching is putting the hot steel between 2 plates of steel, aluminum etc to act as heat sinks. It gives a much faster quench on air quenched steels. It works very well on all the high alloy air quenched steels I have tried, and blades come out nice and straight. It dosent work on tapered tang knives, unless you like warp!

Snap tempering is right after the press quench giving the blade a 1/2 hour or so temper to set the steel up for cryo.

Neil, your water cooled quench plates sound interesting! I seen plans for them somewhere. Ill bet they would work great starting with warm water, and doing multiple blades.

My initial tests show S30-V to be quite shock resistant, but it is still way to early to compare it with anything....
 
Rob,

After the holidays, I'm going to experiment with them further. I have a HUGE source of 85-90 degree water in the back yard ;) All I need is a small pump or could even branch off from the pool filter pump.

The main reason I decided to try this was to make the press quenching process EASY and most of all faster. If I have 6 blades in the oven, I want to be able to remove and press them as quickly as possible. The large aluminum blocks I use get HOT rather quicly and are clumsy to manipulate. I have a NICE big Wilton vise that I've dedicated to my press quenching process. The plates will eventually be mounted permenantly to the vise.

The plates are not that big of a deal to make. mine have two holes running through them with a cross hole in the end that is plugged. I drilled the through holes using the tap drill for a 1/4" pipe tap so I could thread the holes for pipe fittings. I used a long drill for mine because my plates are 10" long. I also put the holes off center to allow resurfacing the plates a few times before I had to make new ones :)

I'm looking forward to getting this worked out and moving my heat treat area OUT of my shop!! Even in December, it gets HOT AS HELL in there :D

Neil
 
Ok, I have to ask - who's Mario? Is he the guy that is usually pictured in Blade magazine for the Bugei Trading Company?

If he can sever that kind of beef, I would like to take him along when I go elk hunting....:D
 
By day he's a mild manner family practice physician. By night...

http://www.knifefighting.com/instructors/Mario_Dominguez.html

It's my opinion that the only way to truly test a blade is to make sure the person wielding it is not its limitation. Mario does that, and has tested blades from a number of serious makers. He breaks some, dings most, but at the end you know what you have - good or bad.
 
I'm an expensive butcher ;), but imagine for a moment hunting bull elk with a sword...now that would require a pair of BIG Brass Ones!:D

Mario
 
Guys: Cliff, please don't take this personally, but, I don't think you have enough data on this steel yet to judge it so harshly. I am eagerly awaiting my (large) order to arrive, and, I believe there is a HT cycle and final hardness for this steel that will make OUTSTANDING knives.
Yes, press quenching is the way to go. I have not added water cooling to my plates-I do each batch of blades starting with a cold furnace, so my plates are never hot.


RJ Martin
 
Originally posted by Jerry Hossom
By day he's a mild manner family practice physician. By night...

Mr. BAD*$$ {edited by me for humor}

Good grief, so he can f*** you up, then fix you up, get you comin' and goin'. Oh, the horrors. I have read his tests and cringed at some of the things he can do. Now I find out he's a doctor? :eek:

Bwah hahahahahaha!!!!

:D

But in all seriousness, this sounds like a pretty bad ... well, you know... killer steel.
 
So far the S30V 10" bladed fighter that Jerry sent me has passed all tests (including all impact tests) with flying colors. The blade remains pristine. There's still a few left to do, including the Leg of Lamb test :D, but the S30V is shaping up to be one hell of a good blade steel. More to come...

Mario
 
I agree Gaucho, great impact resistance for a stainless. It is looking like a very well balanced stainless. I like it a lot and it will replace ATS and 154cm for me.
 
Could someone post the make-up of the S30V? Or the web-site where I could take a look at the make-up? Yeah, I realize that that is only a small part of the pie, but I'm curious.
 
I decided a few weeks ago that S30V will be replacing ATS-34 as my default steel. But accourding to the Crucible materials rep, there is no reason to take it above 58Rc. Any higher and he says that all you are doing is making it more brittle.
 
Jerry :

I guess I'll also have to find out what more than 3-1/2" of beef bone will constitute a measure of toughness..

Bone is fine, especially from a large mammal. My point was simply that the manner in which the material is cut has just as important an effect on how a blade will react as do the properties inherent in the material. You can for example split a piece of wood with the grain very easily, it is however impossible through the grain. Thus splitting Oak with the grain is far easier that going through the grain with Pine, even though Pine is far softer and weaker than Oak. Specific to Bone, is not quite as dramatic in how it responds, but similar effects can be seen to a much lesser degree with variations in method. For example if you cut through a piece of bone at a 45 vs if you strike right into it at 90, the blade experiences very different stresses. Even factors like the tension in the bone are important and can't be overlooked.

Bottom line though, if you want to guage a definate level of toughness you have to have a series of blades that result in a different level of damage when they experience the same stress and thus you can do a rank just visually or measure the edge damage in some quantitative manner. And even if you do all this, all you actually have come up with is a rank of the blades, it takes a fair bit of analysis to deduce from this a rank of the steels as you have to consider how the geometry of the blade, its balance and other handling abilities effect the cut. A very slippery grip for example will greatly increase the strain that an edge comes under.

These numbers were not measured on steel sections that even approximate knife blades.

Yes, this is why you will often see steels like 1095 out score everything even L6 for example in charpy values. 1095 is a shallow hardening steel (0.040" - 0.080"), however for knife blades this is full thickness for a large part of the blade, and only a small core won't reach full hardness, so you won't get the toughness you would expect based on those properties which says that 1095 at 64 is 10%+ tougher than L6 at 60 RC. Outside of this one aspect though, most material properties are normalized to eliminate cross section and thus the size of the piece does't matter, think density vs mass).

As for the comments I made regarding steel, in particular regarding A2, they were not based simply on reading the Crucible spec. sheets. I have used several A2 blades from well known manufacturers, discussed the performance with other people who have done similar as well as with several makers whose opinions I respect as they have done considerable testing (which I have confirmed when possible). As well the properties that Crucible has noted I have checked against many other sources such as Bryson's works and others. They are in agreement, which you would expect given that they are well defined properties. However as you noted, you can change these by the heat treatment, but the basic idea stays the same and you should get some manner of scaling across the families in any case. The point about selection is also very general, basically steels are designed to run at certain levels of hardness, the reason that you have a family (A2-A9) is that they are all optomized for different hardness levels (and other properties of course).

If you make assumptions on how a knife using a particular steel, tempered in a manner you don't know and may not understand if you did, using a blade and edge geometry you've never seen, in the hands of someone(s) you don't know, made my a maker whose work you have never seen and whose works is also specifically designed for each specific user, you will likely be more wrong than you can even imagine. It's also just a little arrogant.

There are upper bounds that can be put on all of these abilities, and some of them don't require knowledge about much of what you mention. For example cutting ability isn't significantly influenced by steel type or heat treatment, its just geometry, so even a basic visual inspection (or spec) will reveal the gross abilities (the only real exception to this is you are cutting something like thread where sharpness is the dominating factor, and you are using very shallow edge angles, ~10 degrees). I just got a custom recently and knew just after looking at it the blade would not cut the way I wanted. I didn't need to know who the maker was, the steel type or heat treatment, the edge was simply too thick and obtuse. I did test it with this edge as well as after sharpening, as it never hurts to check, but I had to reprofile it before I got the cutting performance I wanted.

Specific to the comments I made on S30V, no one is putting forth the perspective that CPM-S30V is going to be tougher or more ductile than 3V, or that it is going to have better low stress edge retention over than S90V. So it is obvious that it can be compared to first order against similar blades made out of those steels (comparing it so say BG-42 would be very difficult obviously) with a focus on those aspects. My point about the steel was that I would prefer 3V for blades that would be required to take large shock as it is tougher, and S90V for those that didn't, as it would give me better edge retention in low stress work, quite simply really. I don't see anyone actually promoting CPM-S30V as being able to achieve otherwise, nor does Crucible itself, except for the obvious monetary matters of course which would make it preferable to S90V for some people.

R.J. :

I don't think you have enough data on this steel yet to judge it so harshly.

It is what it is, to repeat " ... doesn't offer anything of interest for me personally". This is hardly a "slam" on the steel, but simply a reflection of the properties that I desire in a knife, I could say the same thing about ATS-34 and it has a huge market. I found out about this steel back in Oct. of 99, it was presented then as basically trading some of the toughness in CPM-3V to get more corrosion resistance, and wear resistance as a side effect, probably not the main goal. I was offered the chance to look at test blades when it was available, I was really not interested then nor am I now based on those simple rough performance goals.

Quite simply there are other alloys I would rather be spending time with, as well as looking at the heat treating of those alloys to maximize performance. Of course, if some knife maker starts promoting that they can get more toughness out of S30V than 3V, or more low stress edge retention than S90V then by all means it would turn into something I would be interested in looked at. However, R.J., I don't think that is in any way likely, do you? As I noted in the above, it obviously has a large market, I was simply stating that I am not part of it. This is hardly different than someone stating that they are.

-Cliff
 
Originally posted by Cliff Stamp

...My point about the steel was that I would
prefer 3V for blades that would be required to take large shock as it is tougher, and S90V for those that didn't, as it
would give me better edge retention in low stress work, quite simply really.

I think the place for S30V is in the large market for steels that need high impact toughness and better stain resistance than 3V.

This seems to make two categories: 30V and 90V in the stain resistant category, and 3V and 10V in the non-stainless, each pair representing the choice between edge wear and toughness.
 
Rockspyder:

Crucible Preliminary Technical Information

Nominal Chemistry:

Carbon 1.45%
Chromium 14.00%
Vanadium 4.00%
Molybdenum 2.00%
 
Cliff: I understand your perspective. As a knifemnaker, I see a nice fit with this steel for folks who want a very tough blade that is stainless. Yes, 3V may be marginally tougher than S30V, but, it's the maker's job to accommodate that in the finished knife so that any liabilities of the steel can't be readily brought into play during use of the knife. My expectation is that the differences will be very slight in actual use. Extreme testing is a good thing, but, in the real world, the smart individual doesn't ever approach these extremes unless absolutely necessary, because risking a failure is generally counterproductive to the overall "mission".
As you know, the effects of even slight rusting can diminish the properties of a blade, and there will be many applications where it is desirable not to have this as a factor (jungles, long expeditions, etc.)
And, if you compare to the more common materials (ATS, 440C), S30V is going to be "notches" better.
So, for me, it's a good addition to my already potent arsenal.
It isn't always a matter of what is ultimately best, but, what is most appropriate.

Stay SHarp,

RJ Martin
 
Thanks Scott. It looks nice by the numbers. For what that's worth.
 
R.J. :

I see a nice fit with this steel for folks who want a very tough blade that is stainless.

Yes, that is its main market.

Yes, 3V may be marginally tougher than S30V

3V is far more than a little tougher than A2. At its optimum level of 58/59 RC 3V specs at more than twice the notch toughness of A2. I have used several A2 blades and they reflect strongly this difference with the 3V blade I have used from Ed Schott. As well I have never seen any maker promote A2 with similar performance as Ed has illustrated with his 3V. He has bend tests on his webpage showing extreme ductility in a fully hardened steel which I have confirmed to some extent with the blade I have.

it's the maker's job to accommodate that in the finished knife so that any liabilities of the steel can't be readily brought into play during use of the knife.

Well yes, but it is not like this can be done without consequence. In short, durability must be achieved through the proper combination of cross section and steel properties, when the steel is lacking this means that more of it must be there, this reduces the cutting ability there is no getting around that. A better steel should give a better knife, the opposite is obviously true as well.

Extreme testing is a good thing, but, in the real world, the smart individual doesn't ever approach these extremes unless absolutely necessary, because risking a failure is generally counterproductive to the overall "mission".

For normal everyday use the smart individual also has his blades ground right above the points of failure. Over built blades are necessary for "tactical" or survival use where you might have to fairly extreme things or loan them to inexperienced users, but for everyday use it is far better to leave all that bulk behind and get the best cutting blade possible. This if course refers to custom blades, production blades have to be overbuilt.

Serious working blades are always right at the point that any mistake will leave them damaged, as that profile is obviously the one which has the optimal level of cutting ability. The basic point being that you should be able to grind a higher performance blade out of 3V than S30V. However, yes if you are overbuilding them then you are not going to notice much of a difference as toughness is a simple step function, once you have enough, any more is of no functional benefit.

the effects of even slight rusting can diminish the properties of a blade, and there will be many applications where it is desirable not to have this as a factor (jungles, long expeditions, etc.)

I have heard this many times, first from J.J. of Razor's Edge. He tested stainless vs non-stainless in a fish processing plant and found that the stainless one held up better. However I have never found out which exact steels were used. ATS-34 would obviously outlast 1095, but will do this simply because of the much greater wear resistance. You would want steels of similar properties with the exception of the stainless factor to show with confidence that it was the defining factor.

Personally, I have looked at this in detail many times and have never found the pseudo-stainless common cutlery steels to have such an advantage. This has ranged from artifical situations like letting blades soak in salt water to just using them in very wet and humid conditions (very close to the ocean on days with high wind and rain). In general I have found that while steels like ATS-34 will resist surface rusting better, with prolonged exposure they will get very heavily damaged due to pitting where as the simple steels just take coats of surface rust (more area covered). It basically takes something like 440A class stainless to avoid any functional damage or the ultra corrosion resistant materials like Titanium.

As well you have to consider that the more such blades are used, the less corrosion is seen, and since the edge is burnished most heavy during use, it rusts at a much lower rate than the flats. As well it doesn't take much at all to prevent the rusting, and to get significant damage (something that can't be just wiped off), I had to do prolonged soaks in salt water (on the order of a day). Yes this will degrade the edge on a non-stainless blade like 1095 (it basically starts to break apart during sharpening and you have to remove all the corroded metal, this is only a few minutes work), however it also eats large patches out of the flats on ATS-34, VG-10, D2 etc. .

Even with blades constantly exposed to corrosive enviroments like acids and constant moisture I have never had a problem with edge retention because of rusting. For example I have been using a Twistmaster from Cold Steel (Carbon V), as my main kitchen knife for the past few weeks. The flats now are completely covered with oxidation. Much of it is just a simple patina, but there are the occasional patches of regular orange rust as well. That is easily cleaned off with a mild abrasive like a scotchbrite pad. The edge is constantly burnished with cutting. I have not oiled it, but do strop it on a regular basis (once every day or so).

It is based on such experiences that I really don't have any use for stainless blades as it seems to be just a cosmetic gain for low to medium enviroments and for the really bad enviroments they hold up worse. Obviously opinons differ in this area as there is a huge market for the pseudo-stainless steels like ATS-34. Of course there are cutlery grade stainless steels that can resist even the harshest enviroments, like 440A, and these do offer a functional performance advantage, but I have not seen S30V as promoted as being any where near that level of corrosion resistance. If it was then my opinion on it would be seriously altered.

-Cliff
 
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