Spyderco HAP40 what is the anti oxidation coating on the blade ?

jpm2 said:
If there is a coating, it should be easy to detect/remove with a few strokes on a fine abrasive stone.
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Thanks.
I left the red scotch brite pad out in the back yard to let the Zylene evaporate for a day before I brought it in.
It did have a white residue on it where I had been using it to scrub with.

I did abrade the heck out of the HAP40 area of the blade using my Shapton Glass Edge Pro stone. I forget which one but it was either my 220 or 500.
I was starting to get the factory grind pattern to smooth out but was only through it in areas and looks like those are the blotch areas that I got when I tried to patina it again. Any one wanting more detail about what I have already done to chemically and mechanically prepare the surface should follow the link above to that thread.

I have only wiped down my HAP40 blades with 90% rubbing alcohol. After that they took a patina just fine. I truly think there is just oil on it.
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Thank you !
Maybe it is alcohol based. Many solvents won't touch finish that is dissolved with alcohol. Obviously I am no chemist . . . I'm just saying.

It seems like it should be really simple to end this thread. All it would take is a person from Spyderco (Sal) to answer my question. :) :) :)
. . .or check one ? :
  • It is an industrial trade secret.
  • You are nuts there is no coating.
  • I don't know.
 
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Bump.
Hey . . . Sal's back on.
HAP40 coating ?

PS: I scrubbed the blade with 90% alc on a paper towel and stuck a mashed up lemon around the blade. No change from the couple of slight bluish blotches I got on one side of the blade a week ago.
 
Wowbagger said:
Bump.
Hey . . . Sal's back on.
HAP40 coating ?

PS: I scrubbed the blade with 90% alc on a paper towel and stuck a mashed up lemon around the blade. No change from the couple of slight bluish blotches I got on one side of the blade a week ago.
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So you've scrubbed it with abrasive, washed it with solvent, applied acidic fluids, results in less staining than you expect, no one has suggested a coating other than the laminate....
 
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jpm2 said:
So you've scrubbed it with abrasive, washed it with solvent, applied acidic fluids, results in less staining than you expect, no one has suggested a coating other than the laminate....
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I have.
or
Maybe mine isn't HAP40.
I'd like some sort of answer rather than being ignored by Spyderco.
Or tell me how to get the dark blue color. Isn't straight up blueing chemicals too poisonous to use on kitchen cutlery ?
So how is it done ?
 
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(Edited for typos)

Why do you think it has a coating of something rather than cladding? Can you post some pictures of it? That blade is cladded in SUS410 which seems pretty stainless and won't likely patina. The edge of exposed HAP40 may.

I seriously doubt if Sal would know if SUS 410 will take bluing well. Why would he know that? And giving you an answer seems like it could only come back to bite him on the ass. The only answer he could reasonably give is "Not sure about that. You would have to try at your own risk."

I'll be honest with you: your demanding attitude is off-putting. You're acting like Sal and/or Spyderco owe you an answer. They don't. Sal is here as a courtesy. Given your attitude I would not even consider replying to this post.
 
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RipD said:
I'll be honest with you: your demanding attitude is off-putting. You're acting like Sal and/or Spyderco own you an answer. They don't. Sal is here as a courtesy. Given your attitude I would no even consider replying to this post.
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Excellent point! :thumbsup:

Heat treat can affect the way steel takes bluing as well...
 
I've got a hap40 endura and a hap40 delica I bought new, and I've used them fairly regularly in my rotation since then. I've not done anything out of the ordinary with them as far as special cleaning or forcing patinas. But I have cut whatever I needed to cut, from grapefruit to sandwiches with mustard or a steak and they just have a mild gray patina. Nothing crazy. I've also got a super blue stretch that I bought new. It got a patina by just looking at it funny compared to the hap40. If I was in the market for a spyderco to play with patinas, hap40 would not be my first choice. Maybe find a v-toku sprint while they are still easy to get?
 
Let it soak overnight in acetone (in a well vented area devoid of flames/sparks) and then see what happens, virtually no chemical coating will be unaffected. Alternatively, you could also use Coca Cola since it's quite caustic also.

I seriously doubt there is a coating, HAP40 is really semi stainless with like 7% Cr (give or take), I have not had issues with rust only some gradual darkening patina, it is NOT a true carbon steel like VToku for example.
 
Hello all,
1st, im knew to the forum and haven't really talked much on here so forgive me if my question has been answered before. Sure it has but ill ask. Why does spyderco not release a compression lock Manix? Or does that even makes sense to anyone. I love the compression locks period. There made for my small skinny fingers. If there is some reading material on this topic can someone show me the way? I absolutely love manix ergonomics but i just cant get the locking mechanism down. Maybe my fingers are stupid. Anyway , I don't want to hijack this thread so please point me in a direction or a simple answer will work. Thanks everyone.
 
RipD said:
Why do you think it has a coating of something rather than cladding?
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If you read my posts and links that I have posted ad nauseam you wouldn't be asking that.
RipD said:
I seriously doubt if Sal would know if SUS 410 will take bluing well. Again if you read the above you would KNOW that is not what I am asking.
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Why would he know . . . (the answer to the question I am ACTUALLY asking )?
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Because he enjoys knives and various steel characteristics and finds all this interesting.

after all this is why we are all here : TO TALK ABOUT KNIVES AND PATINAS AND VARIOUS ALLOYS AND WHAT CAN BE EXPECTED FROM USING THEM.

He travels a fair amount and works with the people who make his knives.
HAP40 is fairly common in kitchen knives and the kitchen knives I refer to COME FROM THE FACTORY with the blue that I expect to be able to duplicate.

How could he help but know about it ?

. . .giving you an answer seems like it could only come back to bite him on the ass.
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So fair enough if he or someone else from the team wants to tell me that.

I'll be honest with you: your demanding attitude is off-putting. You're acting like Sal and/or Spyderco owe you an answer. They don't. Sal is here as a courtesy. Given your attitude I would not even consider replying to this post.
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I just wonder if he has even seen the post.
This is the Spyderco Forum isn't it ?
This is where we discuss such things.
Where is the surprise that I want to know about and discuss a quite common process (blueing) performed by other knife makers on HAP40 ? Not the cladding.
I bet when Sal wants to know something he doesn't give up because someone thinks he might have a little 'tude.

He has let me know when I was getting all up in his grill.
I would simply like some sort of indication he . . . or anyone else from Spyderco who can help me has even seen the question . . .
Is that surprising ?
 
Probably you need to tag him ;)
My Stretch HAP40 patina but not as fast as the Endura Superblue. I don’t know what different it is on yours.
 
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