SR101 Strippers?

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Aug 31, 2013
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I'm in the middle of stripping my second SR101 blade. The first one I went straight to sanding on after the strip because of grinder gremlin marks but so far this one looks like it escaped the shop without a scratch (Probably just jinxed myself). I have a question for other members of the strip club. Is the dark "decarb" layer on SR101 more rust prone than the steel underneath? I know it is with INFI, but INFI is very different rust resistant animal. Anybody ever strip their SR101 and leave it at that or have you went straight to sanding the dark stuff off?

I know INFI is the flashiest stipper in the club and always gets the most attention from the boys, but lets see those SR101 strippers!
 
Never thought of that---I hand sanded my trash 2 and just let a patina form... I'm as curious as you now!
 
Never thought of that---I hand sanded my trash 2 and just let a patina form... I'm as curious as you now!
My first instinct was "it's decarb so it needs to come off" but then all the Bud Lights made me start thinking outside the box and I started philosophizing with myself, "This ain't INFI. Maybe it's no more rust prone than the actual steel underneath. Maybe it's like a patina and I shouldn't remove it."..............And now I'm just drinking beer.
 
I've read the decarb layer is more rust prone, but actually never left it around long enough to find out. I don't go crazy with the finish, but on my 3 battle grade strippers and a BK15, I sanded that stuff off immediately.

Obligitory pic, tanker gray was sweet but I like this even better:
96miw6.jpg
 
I take 'em right straight to satin so never worried about the bark on SR-101 but I would suspect it's as prone to rust since it is a film layer of Carbon (decarburiztion).
 
Yeah, I figured it needed to go, but I'm willing to hear arguments to the contrary... I need to get some pics of my trash 2--such a great blade.

And there's nothin wrong with just drinkin beer! Cheers, bro!
 
next step is easy enough, sell to me :thumbsup:. Damn still haven't gotten a ratweiler. Po'd at myself for missing the op2w infi version they just had :mad:.
 
My RMD is my only stripper. No grinder marks and I don't see any decarb. Just beautiful dimples. A hair dryer and Froglube and I haven't had any rust issues. Seems like there should be a good way to chemically remove decarb.
 
My RMD is my only stripper. No grinder marks and I don't see any decarb. Just beautiful dimples. A hair dryer and Froglube and I haven't had any rust issues. Seems like there should be a good way to chemically remove decarb.
I'm almost 100% positive that pcb etchant would do it. Just not sure I want to mess with that stuff on that large of a scale. Lol!
 
Decarb definitely will rust faster. I've left it wet when rinsing after stripping. .and you can literally watch it rust, ..let it dry.., sand (I use scotch brite pads/wheels than steel wool and flitz) more...re rinse, repeat...seems to make removing it easier..plus you can see it easier, if that makes sense.

I use PCB to etch the logo(s) and I've patina'ed one small slip joint blade with the stuff...not sure I would use it to remove the decarb. It will stain uneven/blotchy if not applied evenly...and then you have to work it...scrape, sand...have that nasty stuff sloshing and splattering...I wouldn't do it outside w/ a face sheild..
 
Decarb definitely will rust faster. I've left it wet when rinsing after stripping. .and you can literally watch it rust, ..let it dry.., sand (I use scotch brite pads/wheels than steel wool and flitz) more...re rinse, repeat...seems to make removing it easier..plus you can see it easier, if that makes sense.

I use PCB to etch the logo(s) and I've patina'ed one small slip joint blade with the stuff...not sure I would use it to remove the decarb. It will stain uneven/blotchy if not applied evenly...and then you have to work it...scrape, sand...have that nasty stuff sloshing and splattering...I wouldn't do it outside w/ a face sheild..

Yes the decarb rusts super fast, I used citristrip on a user rodent 6, cleaned with afterwash , let dry in the friggin louisiana high humid sun came back 15 minutes later and it was as orange as it was when it was covered in citristrip
 
strip, clean, sand asap. Those scrotchbrite type dremel wheels and the mandrel kind that fit power drills and die grinders are a must have time saver wise.
 
I have one (Batac) I've been working on that had CeraKote so the steel is perfect. It's not worthy of photo's, still a wip and I'm going to attempt my own scales but I have to do a good job cause I already had Brown send me pants for it. It wasn't black underneath, actually finished pretty nicely. I started with 400 it was that decent but I'm not trying to take the machine lines out, yet. I think when I get it where I want I'll apply SuperBlue- I did a shotgun barrel that turned out great by blueing, covering in Vaseline, baking for several hours then polish it- 5 years of use and still looks new so kind of what I'm planning.
I have a CS satin R3 that's pretty shiny, we've had some terrible humidity for more than a week here and I noticed some small spots forming just laying on my bench- it rubbed out but that showed me I'll need to do something with this.
 
If worried about rust you could always apply a bluing agent like black magic and just rub it down
Or diluted PCB etchant.

Though with the decarb layer being softer than the "core" good steel, you might scratch right through it and be prone to the scratches rusting and leaving some odd marks if you ever fully sand it down the road.
 
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