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Step by Step Guide to finishing Burl & Figured Wood Handles

You are safe using Danish Oil, Tung Oil and Tru-Oil.
Use light coats in a warm dry work area.
Too heavy of coats or cold damp conditions in your work area can cause the finish to be gummy and discolored.
 
Mark- with the stabilized woods will the acrylic resin react or haze/blush from the thinning of the oil?

Usually a blush or cloudiness comes from moisture reacting to the oil blend. That can be from the wood being wet or high humidity or cold, damp working conditions before the finish has time to cure.

The only time I have had a reaction to any finish was when I applied it to a block of stabilized wood that was still weeping.
Some of the oily woods (Rosewood, Thuya Burl) will weep for a while after getting stabilized. If a finish is applied before the block stops weeping it will be blotchy and sticky.

This is based solely on my personal experience using wood stabilized by K&G. Other companies that use a different chemical mix might have different results.
 
hey guys I know this is old but the info here is just awesome and I thought I would interject with a noobish question...

I have a beautiful piece of stabilized double dyed redwood burl, pic below:

kDHTPKeW50h5MXHTYCwml7SFCJIJycMLGCHBGqLDeKmmQifY8CHdYMnh-DMrglVYb2v00VOYfNY5cmozxtffbAho9LjtHkOb3NV2pOC_TLEKGzJpCpk4D5Cz8kepBjlXVx7AL3hNI4547n3WKkwFEa3QcJXcUdkLXuvXrpounevQxy2zwYCLMyLLWPZrvXxMX8jWYVLmqK3SDmbnrSV3Xdran5GiVBvkRyaHuLZCpy30wLEK8iGlmyUAgtXhctlUKLenicZXmBDwVB47iHVoU-GcRPIpH78oexBP7kg-lRHPjbpNOC7CtMzJijuch9xqgQjcBE5yuJTwPkDFafhOH0oCsfHTCYJ1WV1J70aa4ez_w-hqTQY7SSjtCrqClyAU5LFMvMybqwVVv28pyP1DFNISo29kv23KXkaKk_u_E7mKIDv0hIwr3h9rxjS40gxmVdAj8iqm4WWCCuujPN2Re5rWMfAwHoavBAzqhswCLaTKEKlFykSRmrbAxqmel-ThK__ag4q7k8rC31byDxN8W2leSkDEqncYTGd3eO83JU9gxc5RPTKiIXil1aHcsADIfQQwiVJWILx6g0ahxIt_wKj3dQFsmcFqBGDrygTBvCKY0WxJ=s954-no



However when I got it, it has tons of little crevices. I assume there is a correct way to fill the little nooks and crannies in the wood before I sand down to ~1500 and then tung and lacquer?

Any of your erudite wisdom is appreciated. I consider myself a fairly experienced carpenter but have never dealt with burl before. and I KNOW there is always a RIGHT and a WRONG way of treated each type of wood for each purpose. I would hate to foul up this gorgeous sample.

Thanks in advance!

-Andrew
 
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I copied this from my website at burlsource.us. Bear in mind this is how I like to do things. Others may have different methods that work better for them. I hope this will help you.

How to do fills

It is not uncommon to need to do minor fills with stabilized wood. Especially when using burl. Different types of wood may have small voids, bark pockets, open eyes or checks (shallow hairline cracks). Some people choose to leave these unfilled calling it the natural character of that piece. But if you choose to fill them it is a fairly easy process.

Filling checks is very easy. Using thin CA glue run it into the crack and allow it to settle. Then apply a little more so the glue level is slightly above the surface of the wood. While the glue is still wet take a piece of the last used grit sandpaper and sand the area that has the checking. This mixes sanding dust with the glue to fill the check and blend with the surrounding wood. Let this dry and then sand any remaining glue from the surface of the wood. Done correctly small hairline checks will disappear.

Small voids and open eyes are also fairly simple to fill. Small ones can be filled with a couple drops of CA glue. Apply a few drops of glue into the opening. After a few minutes the surface will drop a bit as the glue soaks into the opening. Let that dry and then apply a couple more drops. Repeat until the dry glue level is equal to the surface of the wood. Sand away any dry glue on the surface of the wood.

Larger voids can require just a little bit more effort. Using epoxy mix with sanding dust from the wood and fill the void. A flat toothpick usually works well for getting this mixture down into the void. While this mixture is still wet, poke down into the void with the sharp end of the toothpick to push it down into the opening and to get rid of any air pockets. As the epoxy mix dries it will likely settle below the surface of the wood. In that case you will want to repeat this process until the dry mixture is level with the surface of the wood. Finally sand away any dry epoxy that remains on the surface of the wood.

Bark pockets are fairly common with burl. When stabilized the bark is hardened but will usually have a small open area surrounding the bark pocket. Fill the openings the same way as mentioned for larger voids. But you might want to mix the epoxy with a dark color sanding dust so the area filled blends with the bark instead of the surrounding wood. The epoxy fill also helps to secure the bark portion to the surrounding wood.

After your fills are completed you are ready to finish your wood.
 
Maybe this should just be a sticky :D I'm glad it got bumped again, I never would have seen it.
 
I saw them earlier today. I'm guessing they have fallen prey to photobuckets attempt to halt the spread of political memes that don't kin to their way of thinking.
 
Really sad that all pictures are blocked by photobucket. I saw some photos when I was googling, and it looked promising.
 
Hi Mark,
I'm your newest customer. I placed my first order at around 3:00pm today, Howard from BALTIMORE STEEL. Thanks for the great post. It is very timely as I am a new maker and use the Forum to humbly remind me how little I know about knifecrafting. One question, I am specializing in kitchen knives. I have been using stabilized wood only. Can the finish you have just detailed hold up to food oils, soap and water? Also, I was only to navigate your site to the sale items. How do I get access to the rest of the website? I am looking forward to a long and successful relationship.
 
I know this is an old thread but I'm using zebra wood for the 1st time and because it's so light im getting alot of discoloration when sanding feom the sand dust getting on the wood . I didn't notice it untill I got to 800 grit. I normaly go to 1000 or 2000
Th3n treat with linseed oil but even after I wipe the wood down it looks dirty. Can i use soap and water to clean it evwn tho the wood is bare non treated wood ? Or do i need to go back down to 350 grit when it didn't seem to do it
 
Better to use denatured alcohol. The water could swell the wood and require more sanding .... besides the obvious problem of putting a knife in water.
 
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