SURVIVOR! Try stick

Just finished it up.
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That is a beautiful stick...more like a mini-totem poll.
 
I feel the same way! I have absolutely no need for tactical stuff so that's why I only have the 3.5, 6, a Mora and a bunch of Swiss Army's.
This dowel material I great because it's knot free unlike everything available in my yard. Are there any hardware stores out in Singapore?

Don't think there's dowels in hardware stores here but I think there should be in art stores. The reason why I prefer natural branches and twigs was because of some which you have done earlier with the bark still intact. Those look awesome. You are such an influence on me. Lol!
 
You gotta tell me again how you get the bowl of the spoon! That is one technique I still completely lack.

I only use the tip of the knife on those. I start by using the tip as a drill to make a round hole then I do a few slices down the center then slice at an angle to remove the material.
Now I wish I had a camera and an extra hand to show you what i mean.
 
Don't think there's dowels in hardware stores here but I think there should be in art stores. The reason why I prefer natural branches and twigs was because of some which you have done earlier with the bark still intact. Those look awesome. You are such an influence on me. Lol!

I prefer real twigs also but I'm all out of decent material at my house.
Thank you for the compliment bud! To be honest, if I can do these, anyone can with a bit of patience and time. The knife really does all of the work.
 
If I was Guy, I would have to make a GSO 20 [2 handed long sword] just to see you carve a stick with it-Pretty awesome work BTW
 
What was your preferred grip for that work?

I was all over that blade but the best grip was with the damn choil. I'm a little less anti choil now after doing this. A reverse grip with my thumb in the choil worked great also.
 
I don't see a spoon carving on that. Throw it out and start over. ;)




Nice man!

Haha I tried doing two on this same piece but the tip is a little to broad on it and I kept blowing end of the spoon out. I might try it again once I kill the cypress trees in my yard. They're a good 3"+ in diameter so that'll be a lot of meat to work with.
 
Nice TS, especially with the 10! What did you use for the stick? What kind of wood is it?

This was some left over pine dowel material from my job. It's kind of like cheating because I don't have to deal with any knots at all.
 
Not as good as Standard but....here's another using my new 5.1 on a pine hand rail I bought at The Home Depot:

Hand rail


Cutting the rail (ultimately in thirds but this takes the top off):



Carving the square shape into a rounded shape:


Somewhat finished Try Stick:



Aftermath (about 2 hours on this project and at least 1 other hour of hard cutting):



Couple observations about the new 5.1:
- It stays sharp FOREVER!! There are NO ROLLS, no nicks and no dulling anywhere. It's universally sharp up and down the blade. I am really impressed. This wood is not like oak but I've used it many times before and it always seems to dull my knives, but not this one.
- It's easy to control & I used the whole blade and tip - Might be even more so than the old 5.1 which is really saying something.
- It's CRAZY sharp - I skinned one of my fingers and I didn't even feel it!!

This is my favorite medium to work with. It's big and I really get to use a ton of different grips. I also get to use the entire blade and tip. The wood isn't hard but it's not universally the same hardness. The darker bands are harder than the lighter bands and in some cases the darker bands are pretty hard, more dried sap I guess. I've tested INFI, 3v, 20 cv, s30c, D2, A2, 01, 1095, 1075, G10, 3G and others with this hand rail and the wood really tests any knife. This pine can not only dull a knife quickly but also create micro folds and nicks in the blade no matter the steel. So far the new 5.1 has no nicks, folds or any sign of dulling. I am testing my old 5.1 and a RMD in INFI and time permitting will post the results and compare the three with pics and comments.
 
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Dude that's good work! I think these things are way harder when they're bigger diameter pieces. It sucks when these things break also! Damn dry wood!
 
Dude that's good work! I think these things are way harder when they're bigger diameter pieces. It sucks when these things break also! Damn dry wood!

TY! I'll try it again on a smaller piece of pine but I bet it won't look as clean as yours.
 
A small detail that might help is to do all of the rough cuts first and then detail the hard ones after. I learned that lesson the hard way after breaking multiple pieces.
 
The dark parts of the wood are the "late wood" growth rings. The tree grew more slowly during that period and so the wood is denser and more hard.
Those railings appear to be pressure treated lumber. It probably contains metals and other chemicals to prevent decay.
 
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