chiral.grolim
Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2008
- Messages
- 6,422
Sorry, just logged in, no I have not etched any INFI, but here are a few of the many threads addressing the matter:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/etching-infi.1225883/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/on-the-tglb-models-and-their-coatings.1170744/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/considering-stripping-tglb.1211233/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/here-goes.1182711/
And here is my synopsis and the protocol I would try if it were me:
The general practice is to use either salty vingar (lots of salt), direct current (a good battery or AC-DC converter, i.e. charger) and a Q-tip, or to use a strong acid-etchant like the PCB-stuff from radioshack (or other places). PCB etchant contains ferric chloride and strong hydrochloric acid, you really only need the HCl to get the job done. A stong HCl solution is available as "muriatic acid" in hardware stores, and you can add cornerstore hydrogen peroxide (3%) to the mix to speed things up.
Just like for a patina, de-grease the area to be etched with acetone or a couple rubs of strong alcohol - you can use the Q-tip for that. Then, if you think you need it, "wall" the logo in with nail-varnish or wax or tape or puddy - note, the HCL will eat into all of this, so don't wall too close, the varnish would need to cure first and the tape might not grab tight enough if the coat is crinkly.
Drip on the peroxide over the logo - try to have surface tension hold the fluid in place - then drip HALF as many drops of the acid into the mix and just let it sit. If it were me, I'd rinse this off after 15 minutes, use a needle or toothpick to try and scratch out any oxide in the logo to get a clean surface again, spray with alcohol and let dry (or blow-dry), then add the etchant again. Do it a few times to get it nice and deep. Be cautious of the coating starting to strip - anywhere it rubs away to reveal bare steel will become discolored by the etchant, it can be polished away later but will still mess up the cleanliness of the final etch.
When in doubt, practice on something else first
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/etching-infi.1225883/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/on-the-tglb-models-and-their-coatings.1170744/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/considering-stripping-tglb.1211233/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/here-goes.1182711/
And here is my synopsis and the protocol I would try if it were me:
The general practice is to use either salty vingar (lots of salt), direct current (a good battery or AC-DC converter, i.e. charger) and a Q-tip, or to use a strong acid-etchant like the PCB-stuff from radioshack (or other places). PCB etchant contains ferric chloride and strong hydrochloric acid, you really only need the HCl to get the job done. A stong HCl solution is available as "muriatic acid" in hardware stores, and you can add cornerstore hydrogen peroxide (3%) to the mix to speed things up.
Just like for a patina, de-grease the area to be etched with acetone or a couple rubs of strong alcohol - you can use the Q-tip for that. Then, if you think you need it, "wall" the logo in with nail-varnish or wax or tape or puddy - note, the HCL will eat into all of this, so don't wall too close, the varnish would need to cure first and the tape might not grab tight enough if the coat is crinkly.
Drip on the peroxide over the logo - try to have surface tension hold the fluid in place - then drip HALF as many drops of the acid into the mix and just let it sit. If it were me, I'd rinse this off after 15 minutes, use a needle or toothpick to try and scratch out any oxide in the logo to get a clean surface again, spray with alcohol and let dry (or blow-dry), then add the etchant again. Do it a few times to get it nice and deep. Be cautious of the coating starting to strip - anywhere it rubs away to reveal bare steel will become discolored by the etchant, it can be polished away later but will still mess up the cleanliness of the final etch.
When in doubt, practice on something else first
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