The "Ask Nathan a question" thread

That would Depend®...


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I thought that all copies of that photograph were destroyed in the fire.

Apparently librarians arent the most trustworthy individuals.
 
So driving around W.NC I realized I was listening to NPR out of Charlotte and wondered how close I am to youns. I’m in the Hickory/Wilkesboro/Boone area every couple weeks, but I’ve forgotten where exactly y’all are and couldn’t find it on the website. So, how close am I? Where youns be?
 
So driving around W.NC I realized I was listening to NPR out of Charlotte and wondered how close I am to youns. I’m in the Hickory/Wilkesboro/Boone area every couple weeks, but I’ve forgotten where exactly y’all are and couldn’t find it on the website. So, how close am I? Where youns be?
If you're referring to me, BK, I'm out in Transylvania County. Home to vampires, killer bats and stubborn dogs.

But now that I think on it, I think you mean Nate and Jo...and they are in the Mooresville area. Sorry for any confusion.
 
So driving around W.NC I realized I was listening to NPR out of Charlotte and wondered how close I am to youns. I’m in the Hickory/Wilkesboro/Boone area every couple weeks, but I’ve forgotten where exactly y’all are and couldn’t find it on the website. So, how close am I? Where youns be?

Mooresville is about an hour south of Hickory.


Technically we do not do shop tours here. Something to do with having literally no insurance for that sort of thing. But if a person shows up towards the end of the day and brings beer, well, you know, that's different..
 
Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist I have a semi technical voodoo black magic metallurgy question:

How thin can you run D3V?

For context, while cutting game up in the mountains the initial cape cuts and peeling quarters is no issue for the FK2 at 3/16” thick paired with the primary bevel.

But after that comes de-boning where a pretty thin bladed knife really shines. I am not about to do my own full on head caping in the field (leave that to a pro) but getting the meat off the bones is usually best with a 5-6” filet knife. Not super practical for much more than that specific task however, but do you think you could run D3V at 3/32”?

And if not that steel and HT combo, where would you start looking both steel comp and heat treat?
Not talking about smashing through sticks and trees, but for cutting around bone but still fine enough to do tight turns and thin slices.

Love to hear your thoughts as I make plans on setting up the ideal backcountry boned-out game blade!

Cheers
Andy
 
But after that comes de-boning where a pretty thin bladed knife really shines. I am not about to do my own full on head caping in the field (leave that to a pro) but getting the meat off the bones is usually best with a 5-6” filet knife. Not super practical for much more than that specific task however, but do you think you could run D3V at 3/32”?

Really great question. Not hunting myself, but such a knife would be super useful in a camp kitchen. One of the reasons why I own a UF, but that's still a compromise I feel. We need a thin CPK Leuku ! :)
 
Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist I have a semi technical voodoo black magic metallurgy question:

How thin can you run D3V?

For context, while cutting game up in the mountains the initial cape cuts and peeling quarters is no issue for the FK2 at 3/16” thick paired with the primary bevel.

But after that comes de-boning where a pretty thin bladed knife really shines. I am not about to do my own full on head caping in the field (leave that to a pro) but getting the meat off the bones is usually best with a 5-6” filet knife. Not super practical for much more than that specific task however, but do you think you could run D3V at 3/32”?

And if not that steel and HT combo, where would you start looking both steel comp and heat treat?
Not talking about smashing through sticks and trees, but for cutting around bone but still fine enough to do tight turns and thin slices.

Love to hear your thoughts as I make plans on setting up the ideal backcountry boned-out game blade!

Cheers
Andy
Hmmmm... almost sounds like the rare CPK Skinners...
 
Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist I have a semi technical voodoo black magic metallurgy question:

How thin can you run D3V?

For context, while cutting game up in the mountains the initial cape cuts and peeling quarters is no issue for the FK2 at 3/16” thick paired with the primary bevel.

But after that comes de-boning where a pretty thin bladed knife really shines. I am not about to do my own full on head caping in the field (leave that to a pro) but getting the meat off the bones is usually best with a 5-6” filet knife. Not super practical for much more than that specific task however, but do you think you could run D3V at 3/32”?

And if not that steel and HT combo, where would you start looking both steel comp and heat treat?
Not talking about smashing through sticks and trees, but for cutting around bone but still fine enough to do tight turns and thin slices.

Love to hear your thoughts as I make plans on setting up the ideal backcountry boned-out game blade!

Cheers
Andy

Yeah 3V does fine in lighter stock. All else being the same (edge thickness and edge angle, primary grind angle/geometry and blade size and shape) there aren't many applications where a design is improved by being thinner at the spine, especially in an environment where there could be prying or hits to the spine. The application for thinner stock is a very narrow primary grind application coupled with a narrow blade shape like you're describing and we don't make filet knives. We could I guess, I just don't tend to gravitate towards filet knife type stuff.
 
If you were given 3 options for a completely useless Christmas present, would you take me up on that? For fun's sake, we will eliminate livestock, clothing, perishables or anything to do with your profession or hobbies (hence useless). I am thinking technology item circa the late 70's to mid 80's.
 
If you were given 3 options for a completely useless Christmas present, would you take me up on that? For fun's sake, we will eliminate livestock, clothing, perishables or anything to do with your profession or hobbies (hence useless). I am thinking technology item circa the late 70's to mid 80's.
A working Marantz 2235b to drive my dusty old Khorns? Sweet.....
 
I still have old speakers and receivers scattered around the house. I think the oldest pair is from Lafayette Electronics from the mid 70's.
Currently I'm running a 20 something year old Onkyo. I'll miss it when it finally gives up. (And old Infinity Reference speakers from the 90's as well.)

Haven't owned anything from Marantz in years. Those were the days.
 
My 20+ year old Onkyo just finally died. And it appears that Onkyo will shortly be completely out of business., since they have not been able to find a buyer since their sale to Sound United fell through last year. A sad end for a company that made fine consumer electronics products! I ended up replacing my Onkyo with a Yamaha RX-V6A.
 
My Onkyo is bravely holding on though some of the individual amps within are no longer functional after a very close lightning strike a year or two back destroyed four or five electronic components. (All of them being somewhat aged or otherwise covered, there was no point in making an insurance claim on my homeowner's policy.)

I can still use it for watching TV in Dolby D, and for music which can share the input...but it's definitely a wounded duck at this point.
 
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