The "Ask Nathan a Question" Thread

10-inch choppers

Field knives including the Fat Bastard

K20.1 wakizashi

Behemother (very low volume)

Semi-Integral dagger (low volume)

Kukri

Folder (rather than putting my name on it and making it perfect, which has been the holdup, this might be a Tanto and Rasmus Quantavious project, Big Richard Knives)

Comp chopper (low volume)

SDFK (high volume)

Brush Saber
This production list makes me happy, and will make me cash poor.

Some may be sad not to see a skinner or necklace knife, but what I am seeing here is what you do best, if not better than anyone. Fixed blade performance knives. I'll probably get flamed, but the folder is the least interesting thing on the list to me, although I'm sure I'll buy one.

Anything you can share about this "Brush Saber"?

And how about a K19 or K21 - I'm thinking along the lines of the K18 - same style handle but a slightly longer SINGLE edged blade (so we don't need to be wearing chain mail when we're swinging it around). I know the K18 was a challenge, but can't imagine this would be much more difficult than the K20...
 
We sold all of the basic five in 3V that we made. They're all gone.

This is the last of the Magna cut

I wanted to get more progress on the EDC pre-order before offering more because I knew we were going to be a little tight. We have a good handle on that now and these are the extras.

I'm not retiring the patterns, if that's what you're wondering, but this is the end of those production runs, there are none left.

That said, we started another production run of the field knife and we will have more of those available soon.

But, if you're wanting an EDC, I would grab one now. Because it's going to be years before we make them again.
I know this is from a while ago, but I am a simple man and was hoping for a BFK. Does that mean there will be a BFK redesign (BFK 6?) or that there will be more BFK 5 produced for your Friday sales in D3V?
 
I know this is from a while ago, but I am a simple man and was hoping for a BFK. Does that mean there will be a BFK redesign (BFK 6?) or that there will be more BFK 5 produced for your Friday sales in D3V?
Just an fyi, in this case the 5 refers to the blade length, not the version. So if more are made, they will also be called BFK or Basic 5, unless the design is tweaked.
 
I know this is from a while ago, but I am a simple man and was hoping for a BFK. Does that mean there will be a BFK redesign (BFK 6?) or that there will be more BFK 5 produced for your Friday sales in D3V?
 
Could you please tell me about the upcoming sale? Will it be at 3:00 in the 24-hour format, AM or PM? And what will be the price for the least expensive basic model? I'm interested, but I need to know how thick of a wallet I should prepare 😅
 
Could you please tell me about the upcoming sale? Will it be at 3:00 in the 24-hour format, AM or PM? And what will be the price for the least expensive basic model? I'm interested, but I need to know how thick of a wallet I should prepare 😅
It's 3pm. Prices will posted when the for sale thread is posted. You can check out old sale thread to get an idea of the cost.
 
So I'm having trouble getting the screws off a UF2, and decided I should poke around a bit before getting more aggressive with it. Not remembering what you do with Loctite, I found this from a few years back -

The fasteners on the signature side are red loctite, the fasteners on the back side are removable loctite.

My question is, is this still the case, and on all models?

If not, how did you do it with the UF2s?
 
So I'm having trouble getting the screws off a UF2, and decided I should poke around a bit before getting more aggressive with it. Not remembering what you do with Loctite, I found this from a few years back -



My question is, is this still the case, and on all models?

If not, how did you do it with the UF2s?
Any of mine that I've messed with have been red on one side and blue on the other, so they should break loose (on the blue side) without too much trouble. Just make sure you use good quality bits like Wiha or Wera.
 
So I'm having trouble getting the screws off a UF2, and decided I should poke around a bit before getting more aggressive with it. Not remembering what you do with Loctite, I found this from a few years back -



My question is, is this still the case, and on all models?

If not, how did you do it with the UF2s?

The important part is a driver on both sides simultaneously.
 
So I'm having trouble getting the screws off a UF2, and decided I should poke around a bit before getting more aggressive with it. Not remembering what you do with Loctite, I found this from a few years back -



My question is, is this still the case, and on all models?

If not, how did you do it with the UF2s?


It is still the case, on all models.
 
Hardware isn’t connected to the scales. Usually everything falls apart and you put it back together however you want 🙃
With Nathan's tolerances, nothing "falls apart" 😁

Seriously though, after you remove the screw from one side, may have to push the barrel/screw thingy pretty hard to get it out the other side. They fit tight.
 
With Nathan's tolerances, nothing "falls apart" 😁

Seriously though, after you remove the screw from one side, may have to push the barrel/screw thingy pretty hard to get it out the other side. They fit tight.

The holes in the micarta are reamed oversized a little bit because they collapse some over time and will eventually become pretty tight.
 
I thought I remember the hardness on the pre-∆ FKs was 61-62. Will the new ∆ tweak then offer performance similar to what I've experienced with my trusty OGFK or in what ways will it be different?

The new tweaked Delta 3V is similar to the hard versions of it in the past. Nice crisp edge. It is what I was wanting to do with a hard version of 3V in the past but was hindered by inherent limitations of the material at the time. Compared to previous attempts at a hard 3V, it's a little bit harder, it's a little bit tougher and it has a little bit better edge durability. These are small tweaks* but we did address some of the small issues we used to run into with the standard 3V design at higher hardnesses, so you will see a slight improvement in edge retention and a little bit larger margin for error in rough use.

*Edit: I should clarify, these are not small tweaks. These are actually pretty significant tweaks. But the effect in the finished work is not extreme. I should have said these are small improvements.
 
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