W2 round bar tool steel

[Don Hanson III]

Thanks very much Shawn!!!

Your other box (10 bars 1-1/4'') went out this morning.

 

[Nowicki]

I'd like some if you have any left... 6 X 1 1/4". Let me know.

Larry

 

[Don Hanson III]

Email sent Larry. I still have a good bit of the 1-1/4'' and some of the 1''.

 

[Don Hanson III]

I have only 30 bars of the 1''x11'' W2 left. Still have a good bit of the 1-1/4''.

I need to add $1.00 or so per bar to help with cutting, packaging and shipping but have been holding off as long as possible, will have to soon though.

Got a certification on this W2 from the mill.

C - 1.00
Mn - .23
P - .010
s - .004
Si - .20
V - .18

Also, I will have some 7/8'' round soon for you light weight forgers

Thanks again for all your business guys.

 

[Don Hanson III]

I just edited my first post to add another size. 7/8'' round. This size will be easier to forge by hand and I can still get a blade nearly 2'' wide.\

Thanks again guys.

 

[hss_forge]

Still have the 7/8" stock? (7/8'' round 11'' long $7.00 shipped, minimum 10 bars.)
Good deal for me, even if I am in the middle of moving from GA to Michigan, but because it is a Company relocation they will tote everything and pay for it.

Rick

 

[Don Hanson III]

Still have the 7/8" stock? (7/8'' round 11'' long $7.00 shipped, minimum 10 bars.)
Good deal for me, even if I am in the middle of moving from GA to Michigan, but because it is a Company relocation they will tote everything and pay for it.

Rick

Yes I do, just posted it yesterday. Since they will pay to move, I would suggest you buy a couple hundred pounds or at least 20 bars

 

[jdm61]

Don, sent out another check 11/1/06 just stocking up for later I sure would hate to run out. Shawn Ellis J/S

I have bought 237 lbs of this stuff so far and I will be posting a pic soon that shows how forgiving this stuff is, even in the hands of a hack like me. I think I have decided that I am goig to forgo the 5160 route and make by JS test knife out of this W2..............whenever i am able to actually finish a decent looking knife with straght plunge cuts:grumpy: So Shawn.....how did you hat treat that super knife? Of course we need to see pics:thumbup:

 

[Shawn Ellis]

I followed Dons instructions except I drew the temper a little higher 475
But the next blade I forge I will draw it at 425 or 450. I think it will perform even better. I use a toaster oven to draw the temper which is not very consistant. And as far as a picture I have no idea how to post one. I can tell you that the blade is a southwest bowie style 10" 15 " overall full tang.With rubber horse matte handle .And weighs 21 OZs it's a handfull.
Shawn Ellis J/S

 

[jdm61]

I followed Dons instructions except I drew the temper a little higher 475
But the next blade I forge I will draw it at 425 or 450. I think it will perform even better. I use a toaster oven to draw the temper which is not very consistant. And as far as a picture I have no idea how to post one. I can tell you that the blade is a southwest bowie style 10" 15 " overall full tang.With rubber horse matte handle .And weighs 21 OZs it's a handfull.
Shawn Ellis J/S

Was your JS knife that big and heavy or did you go for a thinner blade for bending? When i find my camera cable, i will post a pic of a knife made from this stuff that went bad on the grinder. I annealed it once and when I messed up the plunge cuts,instead of throwing it away, i decided to test it. This W2 is like rubber when fully annealed. The blade was around 3/16 x 1 13/16 x 6 and i stuck it in the vice and started bending. I put 6 bends in it, 5 of them 90 degrees or better, including one in the center of the blade of about 150 degrees.......all by hand No cracking and the only marks are from the vice jaws and bad grinding slips. Amazing stuff. The way I did the alternating bends made a super cool paperweight/sculpture:thumbup:

 

[Don Hanson III]

Joe, W2 is a super simple, very clean carbon steel with just enough vanadium to retard grain growth at higher temps and boost wear resistance. In the as forged or normalized state it's very tough and pliable, it doesn't have the other alloys to cause probs with air hardening etc. W2 will also produce a very, very fine grain which allows for a scarry sharp edge and tough blade. The low manganese makes W2 my choice for an active hamon which is a bonus. 1095/W1 will harden to a depth of .090 were as W2 will harden to .125, this makes it just a little easier to HT. Quenched in water at 1425f to 1450f will produce a hardness of 68 RC, quenched in a good quench oil will give you 65/66 RC. I temper for 1 hour twice at 425f to 450f for a 60-61 RC, for a JS test blade I would temper at 475f to 500f.

You guys are running me ragged, cutting, boxing and shipping W2 I asked the little lady at my one person Post Office if these heavy boxes were too much trouble, she said " heck no, just keep em coming " So if she can handle it, I can handle it :thumbup:

Thanks all !

 

[Don Hanson III]

Here are a few pics of blades from this W2.

 

[jdm61]

Joe, W2 is a super simple, very clean carbon steel with just enough vanadium to retard grain growth at higher temps and boost wear resistance. In the as forged or normalized state it's very tough and pliable, it doesn't have the other alloys to cause probs with air hardening etc. W2 will also produce a very, very fine grain which allows for a scarry sharp edge and tough blade. The low manganese makes W2 my choice for an active hamon which is a bonus. 1095/W1 will harden to a depth of .090 were as W2 will harden to .125, this makes it just a little easier to HT. Quenched in water at 1425f to 1450f will produce a hardness of 68 RC, quenched in a good quench oil will give you 65/66 RC. I temper for 1 hour twice at 425f to 450f for a 60-61 RC, for a JS test blade I would temper at 475f to 500f.

You guys are running me ragged, cutting, boxing and shipping W2 I asked the little lady at my one person Post Office if these heavy boxes were too much trouble, she said " heck no, just keep em coming " So if she can handle it, I can handle it :thumbup:

Thanks all !

Awwwww.....poor baby......makin' that extra money without have to worry about hot scale falling down your collar or knocking divets out of your fingers with the Bader machine Nice little sideline if your source keeps providing the goods, my man.....I'll keep buying:thumbup: Thanks for the HT info. So 59 or so would be a good edge hardness for a JS test blade? I read something that Kevin Cashen wrote once that said that your JS and MS tests are the ONLY time you should leave the back of a blade that soft...lol

 

[Don Hanson III]

Awwwww.....poor baby......makin' that extra money without have to worry about hot scale falling down your collar or knocking divets out of your fingers with the Bader machine Nice little sideline if your source keeps providing the goods, my man.....I'll keep buying:thumbup: Thanks for the HT info. So 59 or so would be a good edge hardness for a JS test blade? I read something that Kevin Cashen wrote once that said that your JS and MS tests are the ONLY time you should leave the back of a blade that soft...lol

Not complaining, any extra income for this full time maker is most welcome :thumbup: It's just cutting into my knife making time but a good diversion from the normal grind Looks like I'll be selling W2 for a long while.

My JS test knife had an edge of 58-59 and the back was 44-45 (hardness tested at the MS shop after the test, he wouldn't let me check it before the test) The blade passed, edge didn't crack and sprang back almost straight after the 90 flex. I made mine from L6, this was before I had any W2, and L6 heat treated right is a safe bet for this test. The ABS cut & bend test is to show you have control over forging and heat treating, nothing else. Submitting your 5 knives to be judged at Blade is much more stressfull.

 

[David Schott]

Heres my first integral out of this stuff. Cant wait to see the hamon.

 

[Don Hanson III]

That's a very good looking blade David. I usually look for the hamon before I finish the blade and if I don't like it, I just HT again.

 

[David Schott]

Thanks! Its actually pre-ht. It looks finer than it is, i draw file and do a quick lengthwise run with 180 grit prior to HT.

 

[Don Hanson III]

I got ya now, looked too nice for pre heat treat

 

[John Frankl]

Don,

Do you know if you can ship to an APO AP address for the same price?

Thanks,

John

 

[Don Hanson III]

Yes John, I can. Just let me know how much and where to ship.

Thanks!