- Joined
- Jun 27, 2007
- Messages
- 7,648
I too am digging it! Ain't said that in a while.
Thanks for the kind words!
I too am digging it! Ain't said that in a while.
Ya bet! What kind of leather is that?Thanks for the kind words!
Thank you very much. I use Resolene as a top coat, and that seems to work in preventing any dye transfer. I apply it in two thin coats, then buff it with sheepskin.Very nice. Horsehide is an excellent leather for such an application. Are you worried about dye transfer at all? It has bit me even after a couple of years.
Fantastic work my friend!
It’s called dark green gaucho oil buffed. It was on sale and I bought some when I ordered the belt materials. Very nice stuff, thin yet seems very tough. I haven’t yet worked with anything like this. It’s 1,8mm / 4,5oz.Ya bet! What kind of leather is that?
Yeah I've done that too and still had dye transfer. Had it transfer from one holster to another In a storage box while going to a show. Had to throw a couple of things away. Hope it works for ya cause that is a nice project.Thank you very much. I use Resolene as a top coat, and that seems to work in preventing any dye transfer. I apply it in two thin coats, then buff it with sheepskin.
Good deal. Sure made a nice looking wallet.It’s called dark green gaucho oil buffed. It was on sale and I bought some when I ordered the belt materials. Very nice stuff, thin yet seems very tough. I haven’t yet worked with anything like this. It’s 1,8mm / 4,5oz.
So packed up and took a trip. Boo kitty did not get to go:
We met one of our sons at the Grand Canyon.:
Nichole had never been and it'd been 44 years since I was there:
Saw lots of wildlife up close:
Had plans on taking some product pics the next morning with the canyon in the background but it was snowing so hard that you couldn't see the canyon:
Still were able to get a few:
Back home we've been busy too.
Whacha been up to?
Wow, I never had any had anything like that happen. I use oil dye and let it dry for a day before rubbing briskly, and applying Resolene.
Yeah I used oil based dye Fiebings Pro Stuff. I've read that it wasn't oil based really that it was still a spirit based product but don't know for sure. But I do know that I certainly oiled every piece after dyeing. Didn't help. Even tannery drum dyed has some dye transfer albeit very small but it doesn't crack. Don't think so? Take a piece of drum dyed scrap. Even my favorite, the russet Wicket and Craig, that I use almost exclusively. Take a clean white t shirt and wrap it around a couple fingers (this is my normal finish applicator) and wipe it on that piece of scrap. Now turn your hand over and look at your t shirt wrapped fingers. That light brown color on the t shirt is dye transfer. Now working it through my normal sheath making process makes that go away so the dye transfer is slight but its still there. But like I said the tannery drum dyed doesn't crack under heavy use.Is that a Pendleton on your bed? It's a beaut.
Edit to add: out of curiosity, when you're speaking of dyed sheathed not holding up as well as non dyed sheaths... were you using an oil based dye or a water based dye? This is a really interesting footnote that I've never heard before.
Is that a Pendleton on your bed? It's a beaut.
Edit to add: out of curiosity, when you're speaking of dyed sheathed not holding up as well as non dyed sheaths... were you using an oil based dye or a water based dye? This is a really interesting footnote that I've never heard before.
Yeah I used oil based dye Fiebings Pro Stuff. I've read that it wasn't oil based really that it was still a spirit based product but don't know for sure. But I do know that I certainly oiled every piece after dyeing. Didn't help. Even tannery drum dyed has some dye transfer albeit very small but it doesn't crack. Don't think so? Take a piece of drum dyed scrap. Even my favorite, the russet Wicket and Craig, that I use almost exclusively. Take a clean white t shirt and wrap it around a couple fingers (this is my normal finish applicator) and wipe it on that piece of scrap. Now turn your hand over and look at your t shirt wrapped fingers. That light brown color on the t shirt is dye transfer. Now working it through my normal sheath making process makes that go away so the dye transfer is slight but its still there. But like I said the tannery drum dyed doesn't crack under heavy use.
Back when I quit dyeing leather I was working at a much higher volume than I do now. I was kicking out a batch of knives and sheaths at least once a month and closer to every three weeks of 60- 100. For years my average of knife making was around a thousand. So for sheaths it was quite a bit more as I have always been building my sheaths for other knives too. I always had five to ten outside sheaths in every batch to do. I offered the standard Oil Dye colors of saddle tan, light brown, dark brown, mahogany and black. I also did my oil tan which was just warmed up neatsfoot oil like I do now. With that kind of product out there, I was basing my decision of lots and lots of product in use and seeing how it held up. While not part of my decision making process I can tell you it sure simplified life not offering the different colors. Couldn't even begin to tell you how many times: "Dang that one was suppose to be saddle tan, not mahogany!" Became a big believer in the KISS principle!
Yeah I used oil based dye Fiebings Pro Stuff. I've read that it wasn't oil based really that it was still a spirit based product but don't know for sure. But I do know that I certainly oiled every piece after dyeing. Didn't help. Even tannery drum dyed has some dye transfer albeit very small but it doesn't crack. Don't think so? Take a piece of drum dyed scrap. Even my favorite, the russet Wicket and Craig, that I use almost exclusively. Take a clean white t shirt and wrap it around a couple fingers (this is my normal finish applicator) and wipe it on that piece of scrap. Now turn your hand over and look at your t shirt wrapped fingers. That light brown color on the t shirt is dye transfer. Now working it through my normal sheath making process makes that go away so the dye transfer is slight but its still there. But like I said the tannery drum dyed doesn't crack under heavy use.
Back when I quit dyeing leather I was working at a much higher volume than I do now. I was kicking out a batch of knives and sheaths at least once a month and closer to every three weeks of 60- 100. For years my average of knife making was around a thousand. So for sheaths it was quite a bit more as I have always been building my sheaths for other knives too. I always had five to ten outside sheaths in every batch to do. I offered the standard Oil Dye colors of saddle tan, light brown, dark brown, mahogany and black. I also did my oil tan which was just warmed up neatsfoot oil like I do now. With that kind of product out there, I was basing my decision of lots and lots of product in use and seeing how it held up. While not part of my decision making process I can tell you it sure simplified life not offering the different colors. Couldn't even begin to tell you how many times: "Dang that one was suppose to be saddle tan, not mahogany!" Became a big believer in the KISS principle!
I think different greens would appeal to that outfit too as well as the black.I can get a transfer from undyed leather using a white rag. I'm just not having the problems that you experienced. Furthermore, I like using different colors Glock users seem to like black holsters, so I dye them black.
While I don't consider myself a Glock guy, I do have one a (G43).I can get a transfer from undyed leather using a white rag. I'm just not having the problems that you experienced. Furthermore, I like using different colors Glock users seem to like black holsters, so I dye them black.
I'm with Randy, very nice indeed. Intriguing stitching pattern.Just finished a holster for a Smith & Wesson Shield...