What steels will take and hold an edge at a low angle

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noob93

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What steels will take and hold an edge at a low angle let's say even just 30 inclusive and not be rendered useless under normal hard use. Im basically just saying your old camp knife beater that your occasionally a bit mean to. Now I know cpm m4 is known for this trait as is 3v if heat treated properly. So what are some of the others?
 
You can start by looking at simpler cast steels that are used for high quality kitchen knives like AEB-L and some it its Swedish and American cousins, 52100, W2, the various higher end Japanese steels, some of the slightly obscure Germans steels that have a nice dose of tungsten in the mix, etc.
 
Yes, sorry, I just read the full OP about not being rendered useless under normal hard use. So scratch ZDP, it does hold and edge at low angles, but definitely NOT for hard use.
 
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ZDP 189 IS chippy. but the question was "which steel will take and hold an edge at a low angle" and the zdp is it. why? because the basic answer to the question is the harder steel will take and hold an edge at lower angles. other steels may not be as chippy and may be sharpened as much as a zdp at a low angle, but they are more likely to roll and deform sooner than the zdp, being softer.
 
Yep, just corrected what I said above after reading the full OP about hard use. Sorry, didn't read it all.
 
I keep mine at 20DPS, but I have been pretty mean to PD1 and Cruwear
 
What do you feel is low angles?

Here was an experiment I ran on CPM-M4.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1086828-CPM-M4-at-low-angles-My-experience-recently

Here was some testing I did on Nitrobe 77 at low angles. A long thread but covers quite a bit.

http://www.sablade.com/forums/showthread.php?2421-Des-Horn-Imvubu-My-grail

At low angles steels such as 440A,440B,12C27, 14C28N, AEB-L, Nitrobe77 to be the most stable. I believe LC200N/Cronidur30/ZFiNit (all the same) will have similar characteristics. One I am surprised no one has used is Carpenters CTS-BD1N. Can achieve 60-63HRC easily and still offer good edge stability, high corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening (might be because it is similar to 14C28N?, who knows).

As others though mentioned, heat treatment is vital.
 
jdm61 said:
You can start by looking at simpler cast steels that are used for high quality kitchen knives like AEB-L and some it its Swedish and American cousins, 52100, W2, the various higher end Japanese steels, some of the slightly obscure Germans steels that have a nice dose of tungsten in the mix, etc.
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I did not know that AEB-L was a simple cast steel. What a pos. I would never buy any steel that has been cast over hot rolled steel :)
 
I have not run across any stainless steels yet (440c, ats34, 154cm, s30v, s110v, bd1) that have as good of edge stability as non stainless varieties (m2, m4, hap40, 3v, 4v, zwear, 52100, w2, 1095). Still searching though.

Along with good edge stability and among the non stainless listed, m2 and m4 are also the most resistant to dulling.

I left out zdp189 because I find that if making straight draw cuts into destructive materials, like hardened bolts, with no chopping actions (impacts) or side loading (prying) of the edge, it holds up surpringly well, unlike the other stainless ones listed. But because I have to be so careful, it's not preferred.
 
AEB-L @63 RC, 1/8" stock.

rdCXc1R.jpg


Made these two hoof knives for our local Vet Aug of last year. He uses them for digging out abccesses in horse hooves. He's estimated he's used them ever day at least once and more than once often. Come home from the ranch the other day and now Oct of 16 they finally need resharpening. Real world stuff.
 
aeb-l and m390 (and its cousins) are two stainless alloys I haven't tried but are on my radar. Just haven't run across any deals in a style of knife I prefer.
 
Horsewright said:
AEB-L @63 RC, 1/8" stock.

rdCXc1R.jpg


Made these two hoof knives for our local Vet Aug of last year. He uses them for digging out abccesses in horse hooves. He's estimated he's used them ever day at least once and more than once often. Come home from the ranch the other day and now Oct of 16 they finally need resharpening. Real world stuff.
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That's interesting..so what would be the hardest thing that blade has to endure. I'm taking it he doesn't scrape bones or cut through anything overly hard but I could be way off?
 
jpm2 said:
I have not run across any stainless steels yet (440c, ats34, 154cm, s30v, s110v, bd1) that have as good of edge stability as non stainless varieties (m2, m4, hap40, 3v, 4v, zwear, 52100, w2, 1095). Still searching though.

Along with good edge stability and among the non stainless listed, m2 and m4 are also the most resistant to dulling.

I left out zdp189 because I find that if making straight draw cuts into destructive materials, like hardened bolts, with no chopping actions (impacts) or side loading (prying) of the edge, it holds up surpringly well, unlike the other stainless ones listed. But because I have to be so careful, it's not preferred.
Click to expand...

Okay so what about tool steels such as 01 and a2 are they only tough with a thicker edge or can they also be tough at lower angles?
 
noob93 said:
Okay so what about tool steels such as 01 and a2 are they only tough with a thicker edge or can they also be tough at lower angles?
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Thanks, I forgot about those, although the only knife I have used in either of those steels is a laminated mora in 01. It's tough (doesn't fracture), but unfortunately rolls too easily for my liking(deforms). I have 1095 that is tough but rolls too easy, but I also have some that performs well in both areas. I suspect 01 and A2 could be treated to satisfactorily resist both. Edge retention might be a different story, as with some of the others.
I was just referring to steels I have experience with, and there's probably a few others that don't immediately come to mind.
 
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