What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I'm trying my hand at making a flipper (or two). It's going to be a titanium liner lock. I got it together with the bearings today and it feels pretty smooth. Still a long way from completion.

 
Finally got the chance to swing by and take a peek at this pig.

WOW

The last time I was there, the foundation was being prepped. I seriously had no idea how massive this thing would be...





The magnetic chuck is roughly 38" by TWELVE FEET!!!!!!



Here's Jeff Rich standing next to it for scale:

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Our new grinder is up and running. It's a beast.View attachment 746800
 
Finally got the chance to swing by and take a peek at this pig.

WOW

The last time I was there, the foundation was being prepped. I seriously had no idea how massive this thing would be...





The magnetic chuck is roughly 38" by TWELVE FEET!!!!!!



Here's Jeff Rich standing next to it for scale:

35948209194_f2ea079545_b.jpg
Well it can grind blade from all knifemaker on bladeforum.............at once :D
 
Finally got the chance to swing by and take a peek at this pig.

WOW

The last time I was there, the foundation was being prepped. I seriously had no idea how massive this thing would be...





The magnetic chuck is roughly 38" by TWELVE FEET!!!!!!


With a magnet like that you could surface grind your knife and then get an MRI :D
 
Amazing knife mknife

Here's a karambit I just finished. I'm having a hell of a time with this kydex sheath though. The ricasso or square part of the blade, that sits behind the plunge line catches on the inside of the sheath and rips out little bits of kydex when it's drawn. I'm trying to figure out how to remedy this damn issue and will probably start a thread somewhere soon.

AE6dUX1.jpg


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Amazing knife mknife

Here's a karambit I just finished. I'm having a hell of a time with this kydex sheath though. The ricasso or square part of the blade, that sits behind the plunge line catches on the inside of the sheath and rips out little bits of kydex when it's drawn. I'm trying to figure out how to remedy this damn issue and will probably start a thread somewhere soon.

AE6dUX1.jpg


jlMhlBO.jpg
3JI2BWI.jpg
0grr2A4.jpg
wHBo9k3.jpg
tvwxHWz.jpg
I've never worked with kyadex, but I'd guess that rounding off the offending edges of the knife would help. In the pics, it appears to be almost perfectly squared off.
 
As stated above, take a diamond file or some high grit sandpaper and take the edges that are scraping and slightly round it. You'll barely be able to tell they're rounded, but it will be better for the kydex and your fingers as well.
 
After getting through the pile of AO belts I had bought, I finally bought myself some ceramic belts. Now I still only have a 1x42, and I just got the "value" ceramic belts from true grit, but still, holy moly are ceramic belts better. I really wish I had figured this out sooner. The metal just came off so much easier. I've never been able to get through post forge cleanup and bevel grinding so quickly. I also didn't feel like I was fighting with it trying to get it to cut the entire time. I got kind of cocky and also tried to do my first ever swedge since the grinding was going so well. I kind of flubbed that I think and made it too tall, but I'm not even cranky because the belts worked so nice. Just need to be mindful these belts still actually cut even at higher grits, I'm not used to that. Here's the test blade, a little neck knife from a nub of steel of a bush hog blade I'm using to test out how this steel works out. My uncle dropped off a couple of these big blades that had been busted up on the farm. This was also my first time using my new anvil, so lots of exploring new things that all seem to be working well on this one.

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As stated above, take a diamond file or some high grit sandpaper and take the edges that are scraping and slightly round it. You'll barely be able to tell they're rounded, but it will be better for the kydex and your fingers as well.

Thanks for the information guys. This stuff is driving me nuts. I've had to make two sheaths so far. I was hoping I wouldn't have to modify the knife at all, but that might be the only option thus far.

I could have sworn I saw a kydex tutorial where a guy put extra tape over the ricasso area of his knife in order for it not to drag. I love how kydex functions retention-wise, but this situation is making leather look rather appealing.
 
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