Where is the Hatchet/Axe ?

hmm... I don't know if the term exists yet, but after seeing more than a few examples of "pocket axes" of that size, I figure we could have a more official term for them... like the mighty HANDCHET... as in a hand-sized hatchet?... does the term make sense to anyone else, or am I too sleep-deprived right now?
 
Bro...you are definitely "under the influence"....


How do I know?


Cuz I read your post....and I like it!!!


:D :eek: :p
 
Since this is such a short hatchet, I don't see a need for S-7, 3V would be great for edge holding/toughness. One of my favorite hatchets is the Gransfors Bruks mini-hatchet. It has a thin edge and slices well (I haven't tried it, but it would probably slice tomatoes). I would recommend an edge profile similar to the GB mini so that it could also function as an Ulu.
 
Yeah...I'm actually leaning toward A2 now....less expensive, still pretty dang tough.

I priced this one out in 3V and, um....probably not going to work. :eek:
 
full convex from that line in the drawing - to the edge. (no micro bevel - will cut like crazy!!)


(is that what you were asking about?)
 

That's funny. I was thinking of posting, "Dan, are you going to do these or let Gerry get all your business?"

Now before anyone gets all excited you know we will need one of each so we can compare and contrast, and get into a big old fight about whose is better for what and why and why not and what have you been smokin/drinkin/yada yada yada... :D :p ;)
 
Daniel,
Full convex is a good tough edge, but the Q was more along the lines of how thick/thin will the geometry be. What does full convex mean with this hatchet in a slicing mode? Full convex can mean a fairly thick geometry -- good for splitting, not so good for chopping/slicing.
 
Daniel,
Full convex is a good tough edge, but the Q was more along the lines of how thick/thin will the geometry be. What does full convex mean with this hatchet in a slicing mode? Full convex can mean a fairly thick geometry -- good for splitting, not so good for chopping/slicing.

If it could chop down a small tree it wouldn't bother me if it cut my steak a little ragged and cut my onions chunky...I could live with a compromise !!!:thumbup:
 
The axes I use for chopping/cutting down small trees all have a fairly thin profile. It allows them to take a deep bite without having to push a lot of wood out of the way in the process. A thicker profile works in splitting is because splitting is about forcing the wood apart.

If you use a GB mini you'll see that a small hatchet with a thin profile can slice and will chop quite well in spite of light weight.
 
I like it, and somehow I don't think you'll have trouble finding 50+ people to justify a lower priced initial run. :D
 
I'm thinking Snow's right, there'll be 50+ just on this thread alone. ;)

Dan, I took my little Greco out to do some chopping and cutting. It's been a while since I used it so I had to check out something. When chopping I slide the head forward and hold on to the tail end of the handle which gives more power to the chop. The knob at the end of the handle may help keep it from sliding out of my hand when cold, wet, or whatever but it ends up being mighty wearing on my pinky after a bit of chopping. Your design might take care of that problem but I'm concerned it will do the same thing.....so...I'd be HAPPY to volunteer to do some testing whenever you get your first proto or two done.:D
 
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