Wicked Edge or WorkSharp Ken Onion?

T

TheHorta

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Aug 19, 2013
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I currently have a WorkSharp 3000 (don't like it), some King Japanese whetstones, some decent diamond stones, and a JRE strop bat.

I'm not very good at using any of it, so I have decided to go with a more "foolproof" / automated sharpening method that will also be relatively quick. I have folders and fixed blade in everything from Sandvik to S110V, CPM-3V, INFI, etc.

I want to just be done with it, and get the best thing for what I want -- hair-whittling sharp in 30 seconds or less. Every. Single. Time. without fail :p

OK, maybe that's a slight exaggeration.

The new KO WorkSharp, with add-ons, looks very capable, but I don't really think much of my current WorkSharp so I'm a bit hesitant. The WE system I'm looking at is this on for $400 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/Wicked-Edge-K...2493144&sr=8-1&keywords=wicked+edge+sharpener

I'm leaning toward the WE over the WS, but will be convenience and versatility of the WS/KO give me nearly as-good results as the WE, or will I really notice a significant difference in the finished product using the WE?
 
just like your existing worksharp, there is a learning curve to the Ken Onion, If you aren't very good at using it then you should look at the wicked edge or the edge pro apex system (for a more budget conscious option).
 
Not sure why the WorkSharp isn't working for you. That's about as easy and fast as you're going to find. You might want to invest some time in learning to use that machine.

The Wicked Edge is awesome, capable of producing incredibly perfect edges, but it's not going to be fast.

For fast, I like to combine the Wicked Edge with the Sharpmaker. I put a 30-degree edge (15 dps) back bevel on my blade, and then strop it from time to time to maintain its sharpness. When the stropping doesn't work, I use the 40-degree Sharpmaker rig to put on a microbevel. That second angle takes just a minute or two to establish. Then I use the strop again to maintain sharpness.

When the microbevel gets too wide to resharpen quickly on the Sharpmaker, I go back to the Wicked Edge to re-establish the 30-degree back bevel. Rinse and repeat.

But for large blades, like my big bolo in 3V, which I use quite often as a machete, I like the WorkSharp. It's fast and easy, while still giving me a good edge.

Maybe you were just being funny about wanting to get a foolproof system that will give you a perfect, super sharp edge in 30 seconds; but it's better to invest in your own abilities. Fools are not competent, but they are creative. Nothing is foolproof. If you invest in yourself, you won't need a foolproof system because you won't be a fool.
 
You won't get the same kind of edges. The edges on the WE (depending on what stones you get) will be much more precise. I would also bet the edge sharpened on the WE would stay sharp longer.
 
I've settled upon the Wicked Edge. I'm going with the "PRO PACK 1" on Amazon. Oldawan is sending it today with a 10% off coupon for additional stones / strops, which I may opt for the 1200 / 1600 and Kangaroo and/or Balsa strops afterward.

I use my blades heavily, so putting a mirror edge on them is unimportant to me, as long as I can make it as-sharp -- i.e. hair whittling with what's in the kit as it comes. I've seen "Smokeeater908" WE videos, and the system seems simple enough for a dope like me to get effective results.

I think I'll stay away from the "automated" sharpeners like the WorkSharp.
 
TheHorta said:
I've settled upon the Wicked Edge. I've seen "Smokeeater908" WE videos, and the system seems simple enough for a dope like me to get effective results.
Click to expand...

Good choice. I have a Pro Pack 1 as well and I like it a great deal. Good overall solution for everything from reprofiling to stropping. That said there is a learning curve so start with cheaper knives until you get the hang of it. I am getting the 1200/1600 ceramic stones. I believe these will do great touch ups and extend blade life. Finally, I use mine to strop knives all the time so next time you have an order buy some more of the diamond paste.

Happy sharpening.
 
Paper wheels will mirror polish a blade in min or so.
They can be dangerious if you don't use them properly but they blow everything else out of the water IMO
 
U should learn how to use the whetstones there is no "trick" or easy way around it. Take time to learn the trade and it will feel like second nature in no time.
 
I pretty much agree with everyone here. Let me add: buy yourself a Kabar or other cheap tool steel knife, and practice the hell out of it.
THEN, buy a Busse, I am not a good sharpener, but I've found that busses are easy to sharpen, they practically sharpen themselves!!!
Why is this? I have no idea, but for a knife as tough as hard as INFI, it would be a lot hard to sharpen, but they aren't.
It's all about the metullurgy, I think. Busse has a unique alloy, INFI, and the heat treat is just INSANE! I think he keeps them cooking for about 3 days each.
While I don't want to continue to rant about Busses, I would like to say that I won't buy any other brand of knife for exactly that reason. Sure, I've owned Kabars, Sogs, customs, and others, and the only thing that sharpens as easily as INFI are Case traditional folders, or other "lower quality" stainless steels.
 
TheHorta said:
the system seems simple enough for a dope like me to get effective results.
Click to expand...
- Add me to the sharpening dope list. I've used different sharpeners throughout my life, but could never get a shaving edge on any of the blades. The best I could do was with a Lansky or Gatco guided system, but the problem with those is that they have fixed angles.

I'm extremely happy with the WE. Just a word of warning though. It may take about 10 knives or so before the stones really break in. Once they break in and you set the initial angle on your knives, resharpening takes only a few passes. IMO, that's where the WE system really shines. You may also want to invest in a Angle Cube to figure out the correct angle for different size knives.

For an even easier time, make sure you record your sharpening angles and height adjustment in an Excel spreadsheet for quick reference.
 
I find the Work Sharp really shines on the bigger/ longer blades. I have put some screaming edges on my Busses and my throwing tomahawks with it. It works very fast and efficiently with large knives that would be cumbersome in a clamp/ fixed sharpening system. I'm able to get my hawks shaving sharp with it, and they would be very tough to do in any other system. It's just a miniature slack belt. This system is used by a large number of manufacturers, and pro sharpeners. Just my experience. YMMV
 
Got my Wicked Edge "Pro Pack 1" in this past Monday (10/28/2013) and wasted no time bypassing any instructions, videos, etc and slapped my $250 Sypderco Southard flipper in there and proceeded to dull the snot out of it. After dulling over $1,000 in knives I decided to do some forum and YouTube research on the WE, because the tears were rolling like I was just gassed by riot control police. Now I'm beginning to get the hang of it, and discovered you really don't need to start sharpening every knife with the 100 grit stones, and that the arms slide back and forth and are marked with something called "degrees" and that not all knives like being sharpened at 90 "degrees."

Oh... one more thing... I also learned that you need to pay attention because there are two different grits on each stone, and I was frequently sharpening each side with different grits.

Yeah... that really happened... a LOT! :eek:
 
Yes, the directions are pretty important to follow and there is a learning curve, but I can't imagine a sharpening system being much better than the WE. Keep in mind also that the stones have to wear in before they really start giving you the best results. It sounds like you just need to slow down and take your time, maybe visit the WE website and post questions on the forums there if you feel like you're not making progress.
 
MHO - Worksharp WSKTS or Ken Onion.

I have the WSKTS and this thing is unbelievable.

Almost foolproof, I put an edge on every single knife in my house (that needed it) in under 3 hours. (> 30 knives -including kitchen knives)

Took a dull 1095 ESEE to crazy sharp in less than 3 minutes. Does not need a "break-in time" (Like the WE) and to be able to just pull the knives through, change a belt, pull the knives through could not be easier.

It makes a convex edge, that so far, works well beyond anything factory, and it even sharpened up my Lionsteels, Niolox and Sleipner, respectively.

SHAVING sharp! It got my ESEE 5 so sharp, you CANNOT test it on a fingernail (Almost lost my finger)

I ordered 6 different grits, from course all the way up to 6000 (fine) and you do have to do a little experimenting, between Aluminum oxide belts and silicon carbide, but with the ease of use, this talkes no time at all.

Good luck!
 
I have both, and I only use the wicked edge anymore. The ken onion just doesn't deliver the results like I get on my wicked edge
And it is very important to raise a burr on both sides of your edge. Use LIGHT pressure and let the diamonds do the work. Once your stones are broken in and you've gotten the hang of it, you will see edges that will mind boggle you. And it won't take but 10-20 mins to sharpen a blade. Practice practice practice! !
 
I have been looking at the WS, but I am very happy with the results I can get with my wicked edge. It puts nice even bevels on without a lit of trouble and is very repeatable. I was looking at the work sharp for tools and such. There is a learning curve with the wicked edge, but once you get the hang of it I am sure you will be very pleased!
 
My Wicked Edge is due to arrive at my house tomorrow and I can't wait. All I have been doing is watching videos and researching different techniques to use with the WE!
 
This goes back to the original question (instead of continuing a finished decision).

I received my Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition a couple of weeks ago. Like a lot of people here, I prefer to remove the guide and freehand on the belts. I have noticed two things so far:

1) The edges (so far) are not quite as sharp as I can get with the WEPS, Edge Pro, or paper wheels (RSES ones). I'll practice more as time allows.

2) The WSKTS-KO edges stay sharp longer. I have read that convex edges last longer, but had never really experimented with them. I'm becoming a believer!

Are any others offering observations on these?

Good sharpening,
Dave
 
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