Wicked Edge Sharpener VS Apex

I like my edge Pro a lot. Yes, I have messed up some expensive knives but that was my fault the majority of the time. The only problems I had with the edge pro were making uneven angles and make the edge too big which does not happen so much anymore.
 
Swedge said:
What is the "table" of a blade?
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The designer of the EP refers to the area were you rest the blade on
his device as the 'Blade Table'. He warns against trying to sharpen any part of the blade that is sitting off 'the table'.
You move the blade along the 'table', sharpening just that section of the blade that rests on the table. Blade can be 2 ft
long but you only sharpen one small section at a time. This guarantees the angle selected remains constant.
 
I took another look at those demo videos....
It seems as if you must fasten this device to the table top. In the videos it is fastened to a heavy marble slab. I'm glad that I noticed this before I ordered it. I don't think I want a device that must be 'installed' before use. Despite EdgePro's bothersome set-up, at least the Apex doesn't need to be bolted to the work surface. Not having a shop, that would be a big negative for me. Too bad, as I liked the idea of this device.

Stitchawl
 
Nosmo said:
The designer of the EP refers to the area were you rest the blade on
his device as the 'Blade Table'. He warns against trying to sharpen any part of the blade that is sitting off 'the table'.
You move the blade along the 'table', sharpening just that section of the blade that rests on the table. Blade can be 2 ft
long but you only sharpen one small section at a time. This guarantees the angle selected remains constant.
Click to expand...

Ya know, I hear what you are saying as far keeping the edge in the table bounderies. And I pretty much follow that EP sharpening rule. But, if you go look at the sharpening video on Dales web page, he is sharpening a fairly large fixed blade knife and he NEVER moves it, or I should say, he moves it only to flip it over. I have always wondered how long the knife has to be before the angle on the tip is drastically affected. Check his video out. interesting.

http://www.edgeproinc.com/sharpeningtips.html
 
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texbaz said:
Ya know, I hear what you are saying as far keeping the edge in the table bounderies. And I pretty much follow that EP sharpening rule. But, if you go look at the sharpening video on Dales web page, he is sharpening a fairly large fixed blade knife and he NEVER moves it, or I should say, he moves it only to flip it over. I have always wondered how long the knife has to be before the angle on the tip is drastically affected. Check his video out. interesting.
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If he is not moving the blade down the 'blade table' then he is breaking his own rules. I am sure someone with better math than I can work it out but if you start working the hone arm out at a wide angle, I woulds guess that the angle of the cutting edge could easily change 3 or 4 degs. Also the bevel will be wider at the tip.
 
Guys, I am mounting the WE on a nice block of wood I want to use as a base so it is mobile, and it looks good. Like the Apex, you just need something to keep it stable. The WE base comes drilled/tapped for a 1.25” thick base (screws included). You are correct, WE sells the granite base as an add-on, I did not buy.

Re: Moving along the “blade table”.
With both the WE and Apex, once the stones sweep away from the dead center of their pivot point, the angle must change. So the question becomes how much change is acceptable over the length of a blade? The answer is a judgment call and we must be realistic here. Within the few inches of the sweep of the stones on either side of center is not going to make a lot of difference. I guess that’s why you see Ben Dale breaking his own rule. (Keep in mind, you start from the center of the blade with the WE) I sharpened a 6” Henckel blade on the WE and the bevel looked perfect tip to end. I will happily trade a little angle variation (end to end) for NOT having to move the blade. Knowing that the bevels are exactly the same on BOTH sides of the blade is as good as it gets.

I never got this level of results with my Apex. Moving the knife down the blade table and holding the blade in position with one hand while sharpening with the other is not exactly a recipe for precision.

One final note, you clean up after the WE with a vacuum. Never use water stones and Cialis on the same day. Nothing turns my wife on more that dried slurry mud on the kitchen table…thanks Apex!

- woodman
 
Swedge said:
According to the website, the marble base is an option.
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Right. The 'marble' base is an option but securing the device to a base isn't. It needs to be bolted down to something. The Apex has its suction cups, but nothing to bolt on. I'd imagine that the heavier the base for the WE the more stable the device is while in use.

Stitchawl
 
texbaz said:
http://www.edgeproinc.com/sharpeningtips.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting the link. I watched the 'Video' and your right, the demonstrator never moved the knife sideways along the 'blade table' contrary to printed instructions, and also made light of the water needed on the stones.( Just a quick splash. On screen time 2 seconds.......in reality 5 minutes soak )

Both these two 'neglected' items are explained thoroughly in the printed instruction book that accompanies an EP. In my opinion they are both 'negatives' as regards to using an EP and that is probably the reason not shown in the video.
 
stitchawl said:
Right. The 'marble' base is an option but securing the device to a base isn't. It needs to be bolted down to something. The Apex has its suction cups, but nothing to bolt on. I'd imagine that the heavier the base for the WE the more stable the device is while in use.
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There is the same issue with machines for reloading ammunition. For most, more so. You are pulling down and lifting up a lever that typically projects over the edge of the table. So all have mounting holes. I don't want to mount any of them to the bench. For that reason, I mount them on a 1" pine board and then C-clamp the board to the bench.

Of course, not everyone wants to use C-clamps (certainly wouldn't do it with a tile counter), and I would probably opt for the marble base were I inclined to purchase such a sharpener. I'm not quarreling with your preference for not having to fiddle with any kind of base. Just pointing out that there are ways to make the device extremely stable without adding a heavy base.
 
Swedge said:
There is the same issue with machines for reloading ammunition. For most, more so. You are pulling down and lifting up a lever that typically projects over the edge of the table. So all have mounting holes. I don't want to mount any of them to the bench. For that reason, I mount them on a 1" pine board and then C-clamp the board to the bench.

Of course, not everyone wants to use C-clamps (certainly wouldn't do it with a tile counter), and I would probably opt for the marble base were I inclined to purchase such a sharpener. I'm not quarreling with your preference for not having to fiddle with any kind of base. Just pointing out that there are ways to make the device extremely stable without adding a heavy base.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm.... good ideas too! Now I'll have to rethink my plans. I didn't like the idea of using a staple gun to fasten the base to my legs. :(
A board would work, and C-clamps would work well too. It would mean I couldn't sharpen in front of the TV (my little TV tables are too rickety,) but it would work at the kitchen table, and my wife wouldn't get as upset as if I drilled holes through the Oak table top! :thumbup: (she's funny about stuff like that....)

Stitchawl
 
it would work at the kitchen table
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In that case, you probably want a second piece of pine board to go underneath as well so the table top is sandwiched between two boards. I twist the handle on the C-clamp pretty tight, and it puts a dent into the boards. You might need a 4" or 5" C-clamp like I use.
 
matt321 said:
Hmmm. To me this looks somewhat less safe than EdgePro. Just sayin.
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Interesting.... I was thinking it was safer! :eek:
The blade is firmly clamped into the WE device rather than just sitting on the blade table. Not that I've ever had a blade come OFF the EdgePro blade table while sharpening, but I certainly have had them move around a bit. May I ask what it is that makes you feel it's less safe? You've got me curious!

Stitchawl
 
Just glancing at the video. The blade is clamped to a fixed table in an edge-up position. In the edgepro the knife is not clamped to anything. The knife, more or less remains in your hand. If you walk away from the edgepro the knife goes with you.
 
matt321 said:
Just glancing at the video. The blade is clamped to a fixed table in an edge-up position. In the edgepro the knife is not clamped to anything. The knife, more or less remains in your hand. If you walk away from the edgepro the knife goes with you.
Click to expand...

OK... I see what you mean. Edge up and locked in place 'could' spell disaster, especially for people like me who tend to be of somewhat 'mixed focus.' (How's that for a great way to say 'careless?!? :D ) On the other hand, I have, on occasion, stuck myself in the thigh with a sharp point when walking away from the EdgePro table carrying the knife back to the kitchen. I think I'm gonna sell off my stuff and buy Ginsu knives. They never need sharpening! :p

I have this sinking feeling that no matter what we use when dealing with such sharp toys we will need to actually pay attention to what we are doing at all times. Sort of like riding a motorcycle. Lose concentration for just a split second and go off the high side.... :eek: I hate when that happens. Anyway, thanks for clearing up your concerns for me. Thinking about it, I can't really imagine a 'safe' sharpener, especially in my hands. So for me it boils down to which ones work the easiest, best, cleanest, etc., etc., etc. and buy another box of Band-aid's (plasters.)

Stitchawl
 
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