Wood Wedges

DB_Cruiser said:
I haven't made my own yet but if I did, I would use my local hickory most likely (cuz I got tons of it). I generally use the wedge that comes with the hafts I buy. Usually poplar. But the Hoffman haft I used recently came with a lovely walnut wedge which is a pretty nice touch on top of a nice haft.
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ok, wow, a couple things

1. great hang - looks good
2. how is that hoffman handle?? please post pictures!!! where did you get it? and how much was it if you don't mind telling.
3. what pattern head is that? it has almost zero poll and flat cheeks - reminds me of the tasmanian axes we've been talking about in the it followed me home thread
 
Thank you again. The haft is 32" and about as close to perfect grain as I have seen. Very slender. I'll see how it holds up but I expect good things. I am picky about the grain in the hafts I select and I could find nothing I liked locally. I hate ordering hafts on line as I am frequently disappointed by what I get.
Good eye (haha) on the axe. It is indeed a Tassie, shipped to me from Australia a few months back. An Elwell 4 1/2lb, made in England. The head was a good deal, shipping was a few dollars less than the head. So another $45 spend on the haft brings the total package to right around $150. I reckon it's cheaper than a Hults Bruk Arvika 5 star that I frequently lust after. I think this axe looks better and may even be a better axe.
I've only put a few swings in with it so far. I like it a lot. The overall shape of the haft is pretty different from my other axes, but it actually feels easier on the wrists. Come spring it will start to see some heavy use. I'll be able to make a better assessment of the haft after it gets a work out. In any case, I could babble about this build, but the pictures say the rest better than I can.

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THanks! Very cool axe! That is a beautiful handle, and with a pretty serious bend at the grip. I love that it has a proper swell at the end - something that I really want on my handles. The head looks to be in good shape also. I'll be interested to hear a full assessment after you put it to work this spring!
 
ithinkverydeeply said:
Trying to step up my wedge game a bit with some wicked wedges that Colby from Owen’s hooked me up with!
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Bloodwood, leopard wood, and a laminated one that has subtle detail.
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Sorry for the redundancy.
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Ignore my post in the rehang thread.
 
There are a LOT of old axes, mauls and hatchets around with loose handles. I always put a wedge in made from pieces of old axe handles, so they would be hickory or ash wood. Using a soft wood as a wedge would just mean it would compress and get loose faster with humidity changes etc.. Which may be why the heads are loose on so many old axes. I never researched it, it just made sense to me to use the same wood as the handle, and it has always worked fine.
 
I saw on ebay an old PLUMB axe "rehandling" kit which consisted of a wood wedge and an little instruction pamphlet.

the wedge that came with the kit is made of of 'hard maple' , which usually means sugar or black maple.

so, there is some evidence of the use of hardwood wedges.
 
Pdr206 said:
So hickory wedges are acceptable?
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probably would be fine. I think I've used hickory and oak before with no problems. I've heard of people saying that they've had hard wood wedges back out before, but I've never had that happen.

the benefit of a harder wedge is that you are more likely able to pound it deep into the kerf before it deforms and breaks. but the good thing about a wedge that does deform some is that it can be squished into misshapen cracks and voids, etc. I have had soft wedges break off before they got near as far as I wanted them before.
 
Old Axeman said:
One problem with a very hard wood wedge, like hickory, is that you can bulge the axe eye. When I was young, and full of piss and vinegar, I bulged the eye on a new True Temper, Kelly Perfect, Jersey, 4lb, single bit.
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That is very good information, and an important consideration!
 
I had a walnut wedge back out on me the other day. Only because I didn’t glue it in. If you use hickory just glue it in and you should be fine.
 
Old Axeman said:
One problem with a very hard wood wedge, like hickory, is that you can bulge the axe eye. When I was young, and full of piss and vinegar, I bulged the eye on a new True Temper, Kelly Perfect, Jersey, 4lb, single bit.
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I've cracked an eye with the poplar wedge that came with a replacement handle. That was a True Temper broad hatchet. Admitedly, I was driving it hard. But it makes a case for having a wedge that will fail before cracking an eye. I haven't driven any wedge that hard since.
 
npace said:
I had a walnut wedge back out on me the other day. Only because I didn’t glue it in. If you use hickory just glue it in and you should be fine.
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I don't glue anymore. I just use my generic version of Swel-lock.

I used to use construction adhesive on all my hammer re-handling. It worked well for me. I'd squirt it in the eye and spread it around. Then I'd spread some on the handle before inserting it. We I'd wedge it the adhesive would squeeze out of every little hole, ensuring that there were no voids inside the eye. I like that.
 
Square_peg said:
I've cracked an eye with the poplar wedge that came with a replacement handle. That was a True Temper broad hatchet. Admitedly, I was driving it hard. But it makes a case for having a wedge that will fail before cracking an eye. I haven't driven any wedge that hard since.
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oh man, that's scary!!! and definitely worth taking note of. I've been pounding the poop out of my wedges lately, and feeling very pleased with myself in the process. Sounds like I should maybe dial it back about 25%
 
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