"Your" custom kukri sheaths

Where do you guys get the shackles from? And what diameter are they?
Also I see the sheaths posted here don;t use rivets. Do you feel they are sturdy without them?

Thanks.

MIB
I got mine at west marine. It is a wide D shackle in stainless steel, I believe it is 1 1/4" it was about $10.00 but well worth it. The wide D gives you more length at the bottom of the shackle which gives more surface area for the leather loop. I did not use rivets simply because I did not have any and I'm not a big fan of them. I used a heavy duty thread that I waxed and when I stitched and pulled it tight the leather actually compresses and gets very rigid, I find no loss of strength without the rivets.
 
Bill, Other than the standard HI sheath, the “fast draw” type is all I know, with one exception. I’ve had another company’s KLO for a long time. It came with a sheath just like Steve’s Kami Fund sheaths. I used it as a model for my first sheath, which I put together a while back. It works very well, so I stuck with the style. The “exception” to this style is the SecureEx sheath from that same KLO company. It is an awesome sheath, but impossible to replicate without $6,000 plastic molds, as far as I can tell.

I do plan on making a pouch style sheath for my 12.5” GRS/BC. It will be rectangular in shape. I haven’t worked out all the design bugs, but have created a rough paper model. The model even has a retaining flap which folds over the handle, much like a flap holster for a revolver. I wanted this sheath to hold and protect the khuk while strapped to a pack. I also wanted it to conceal the khuk some what, so sheeple wouldn’t immediately recognize it on the trail as a large blade. I think the design will work well with a small khuk. It would be huge and require a lot of leather to make this for my M-43 or similar khuk.

I went with a larger retaining strap/flap on this M-43 sheath. My older WWII/CAK sheath just used a strap which was about an inch wide. I figured this flap would be more secure and possibly protect the blade more. You could pretty much cover the entire slit with a flap. That would keep out most debris and allow a much smaller top opening than a pouch style. I’m trying figure out a way to make a secondary retention system for the flap. I’m thinking something simple like a leather loop on the flap and a corresponding loop on the sheath body. I could run a short length of 550 cord through both and secure it with a spring lock device, or a simple knot. That should work well and be easy to use. That would allow peace of mind if I strapped this sheath to a pack, or traveled through thick brush.

Speaking of strapping the sheath to stuff, that was the idea behind all the D-rings. The top set are for a baldric setup also. I did the same on my first sheath and it seemed to make sense. The only problem is, after I put this last sheath together with the stainless shackle, it looked a bit too much like some sort of bondage implement:eek:. I guess there’s no way around that with all that leather and steel. I tried something a little different with the D-ring attachment straps. On my first sheath, I just sewed them to the outside. That looked a little sloppy to me. Of course, it could be my sloppy craftsmanship! This time I used a relatively thick cow hide sheath lining instead of pig suede. I cut notches in the lining which correspond to the straps. You end up with straps which appear to come out of the lining. It has a cleaner look and should be just as strong. Ideally, I would have used rivets at these points, but I’ve never used rivets. I looked at some at Tandy and realized I’d have to buy a 100 pack or so just to use a couple and decided against it at this point.

I’ll try to get some detailed photos up as soon as possible, even though I hate to do it before I fix those jagged edges. Everything said and done, I’m very happy with this sheath. I wasn’t sure about making a dangler, especially with that big shackle, but it turned out very comfortable. I tried to find a shackle like the one from the forum member Farm knife sheath and Pugs’ Tamang sheath, but Lowe’s had just one which was large enough to use. It’s a little more circular than U shaped, but it’s growing on me. The good thing is it has a 2,000 pound load rating, so I can add about 1,997 pounds of stuff to the sheath and still be safe!

Man in Black, I picked up my shackle at Lowe’s. It was the biggest stainless shackle they had. As I said earlier, I’ve never used rivets, but I assume they would add a nice level of strength. I used waxed artificial sinew and it seems very strong. I’m not worried about it breaking. The only bad thing about the sinew is that it doesn’t tie well. I make knots at the end of the stitch and this didn’t make very secure knots. But, I run the stitch back through several holes, so it should be plenty secure even if the knots comes loose.

Snow and Steel, I figure that as long as folks have been using leather to hold stuff, there’s probably nothing we could dream up that hasn’t been done a million times! I cannibalized like crazy for the two sheaths I’ve made. I’m very new to sheath making, so I try to let someone else go through the learning curve first:).

Cpl, that is a beautiful sheath setup! I really like the tooling and knife sheath attached to the strap.

Take care.
 
Good looking piece cpl... wow, I really was retreading well walked ground in my thoguhts for a sheath! I see you;ve got yours set up for a shoulder style carry vs a belt carry - hos is teh weight like that? manageble? looks like you did some very nice work there!
It's actually a sheath I had made for me by Ilbruche who is a member here, but seems to have disappeared from the forum after I had him make these. . .:rolleyes:

It actually does have a belt loop:
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But, IMO if you want to carry a big blade, the baldric style is the way to go, you hardly feel the weight. With a 20" CAK like that, it WILL pull your pants down! So I use the baldric to carry the weight and the belt loop to keep it from swinging around.

The R10 sheath was originally made to be worn horizontally on my belt. Problem is, though, the R-series of knife are shaped such that retention straps basically do nothing to hold them in the sheath, since there is a smooth transition from handle to blade. I found this out when I opened the box from Ilbruche and the knife was mostly out of the sheath with blade exposed. So horizontal carry wouldn't work. Then I remembered the tanker type holsters where tank crew members carried a pistol across their chest, and figured (real brainstorm here) the baldric strap is just a belt! So I put it on, used the adjustment holes on the baldric strap and some leather lace and lashed the sheath in place and it works great. Both blades are in easy reach and out of the way at the same time.


Nice work John. What is your feeling about the quick draw slit? Why not just make the sheath wide all the way up to the top?
To answer:
The advantage of the quickdraw style is that you only have to draw the blade 4 inches or so before you can take it out of the sheath, versus drawing it all the way up to your armpit. The traditional sheaths works well if you carry it on your offside, and use your offhand to angle it forward for a crossdraw (like Gurkhas do), or carry it in front of you on a belt or in a sash (traditional carry), but if you want to carry it on your side in a western style of carry, they aren't so great.
 
I like viewing the sheaths that have been posted.
I may have to try my hand at building one.
Any preferences as to the leather thickness? I'm thinking 8-10 ounce range would make a very sturdy reliable sheath.
Any preferences for a leather finish?
 
Likely?
If my kukri gets frequent use, I'll probably get a hip kydex sheath. I'll not make it, I don't have the finances or the skill or even the patience to mess around with kydex. So I'll probably find someone in the Hungarian knife community who does.
Most likely will be a hip holster (small on back, horizontal, according to "The new weapons of the world") so it won't pull down too much.
 
Here is one I made for my Busse KZII.

I Know, it is not a traditional Khukri, but it is a "modern" Khukri design. The sheath is an open spine. The belt loop is closed with 4 heavy snaps, and can be tied closed with Para cord as well.

Hangs nicely on the belt, and is quick to draw once the snaps are undone. Very secure, you can shake it all you want and no budge in the sheath.

The thickest part is 9 layers of 9-10 ounce leather. So it was a beast to punch the holes by hand.

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the blade is a 12 inch blade, with about a 6 inch handle?

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It will probably be carried on the Baldric rig that the B11 sheath is attached to right now. Easier on and off, and out of the way as opposed to on the belt.

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The guard locks into the welt.

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BigfattyT, That is awesome! I ended up using an electric hand drill to make my holes and it worked well. I picked up that trick from Oldschool45. You need to give HI khuks a try. I think you'd fit in around here just fine:). Thanks for showing your work.
 
BigfattyT, That is awesome! I ended up using an electric hand drill to make my holes and it worked well. I picked up that trick from Oldschool45. You need to give HI khuks a try. I think you'd fit in around here just fine:). Thanks for showing your work.

I have used a drill with a tiny bit before. I broke a bunch of bits. Still a lot of work, and the holes on the front weren't quite a clean.

Course, my drill is a crappy, super heavy harbor freight. No speed control, no torque control it is a heavy train wreck.

If I get my vice set up in the garage, and make some padded attachments for the jaws, I might give the drill another try.


I was told to get a dremel drill press set up and it would be much easier!


I have almost pulled the trigger on a HI kuhkuri before. Just never seemed to have lined up right with funds.
 
Here is some that I have done.

This is Mneedham's Farm knife sheath I made for him.

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This is one for a Mcurdy Kukri.

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Here is another Mcurdy Kukri sheath.
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I added this feature to the front pouch. It is a strap that works in the same way the little strap inside some battery operated devices have to help pull the batterys out of the compartment. This is not my idea however, I have seen it done in other sheaths.

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This one wasnt an HI knife, but it shares the same features as my other sheath.

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Nice work Goose. You may have single-handedly started the Shackle Dangler trend with that Farm Knife sheath. That's where I got the idea. Thanks for showing your work. You'll likely pick up more business around here. Your sheaths seem well suited to HI products. Take care.
 
Wow the leatherwork in this thread is incredible:eek:

I just finished up a prototype shoulder rig for my Tirtha bowie. I used a plain Jane shoulder holster from Tandy leather then built a sheath to ride high and tight. Its not a fast draw set up, but it certainly keeps the blade hidden under an overshirt.

I'm hoping it loosens up a bit as it breaks in. I would have rather made the welt out of a thicker leather, but all I had was some thinner stuff. It needs another deliberate coat of dye. I just roughed it in.

...the next step is drying as i type. I figure a big heavy blade needs a big heavy gun to balance out the other side. A quick and dirty holster for my Ruger Blackhawk is going on the left side. It works out that I'm a righty with knives and southpaw when it comes to guns. Two fisted cross draw:D:thumbup:

Pics up tomorrow if I can get my wife to take a couple of me with the rig on.

Edit to add self taken Facebookish phone pics:D
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Just finished another Farm knife sheath a well as a Karambit sheath.

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Goose these sheaths are really impressive, i know this is an old thread but would you be willing to make a similarly styled sheath for my HI M43 as you've done for these farm knives?
 
Here's a wood on leather quick draw Terry Sisco made for me way back when. What happened to Terry. I still have the sheath. For my GK 16" bonecutter

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