Z Wear and Z Tuff

DeadboxHero said:
I still really want to see 1v and S5 added to the charpy graph. Impact monsters
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I’m anxiously waiting this. I also think ztuff will jump up on the chart with a lower austenizing temp, for 58 rc. Even though it’s tough as hell at 61. Tougher then 3v, several points harder, and we all know 3v is no slouch in toughness!
 
rodriguez7 said:
I’m anxiously waiting this. I also think ztuff will jump up on the chart with a lower austenizing temp, for 58 rc. Even though it’s tough as hell at 61. Tougher then 3v, several points harder, and we all know 3v is no slouch in toughness!
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If only I made axes to take advantage of the shock resistance. Might have to get into forging in the future. Love me a good axe
 
DeadboxHero said:
If only I made axes to take advantage of the shock resistance. Might have to get into forging in the future. Love me a good axe
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Stock removal tomahawks. Or some choppers. I would like a sheet, so I can make me a compact hunters axe!
 
DeadboxHero said:
If only I made axes to take advantage of the shock resistance. Might have to get into forging in the future. Love me a good axe
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But even as an edc steel. My personal edc is a thin flat ground knife at 61 rc. Not as thin as yours, but pretty dam thin, it cuts great, and holds up to anything.
 
rodriguez7 said:
But even as an edc steel. My personal edc is a thin flat ground knife at 61 rc. Not as thin as yours, but pretty dam thin, it cuts great, and holds up to anything.
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Z-tuff Just doesn't suit my taste with my current design, I just don't need the shock resistance, I want more strength for sub micron edges so they resist rolling better and more wear resistance to prevent blunting down in use. Nothing wrong with Z-tuff just not my jam for the laser stuff I make and like. In my experience, I found I could increase durability with thicker geometry and increase impact toughness by dropping carbide volume but it was always an inverse trade off to cutting ability with thicker geometry and wear resistance, strength traded for raw shock/impact toughness. So I got more out of going with higher hardness and carbides for what I like and do.
Preference is King.
I respect what Z-tuff/CD-1 is.
 
Is that because those steels are made by Carpenter, but carry a Zapp label?
DeadboxHero said:
Well I called @nsm
They haven't always had it. Looks like folks were getting it previously from another source. I forgot it is not a Crucible steel but a Carpenter Steel.
Frank says they have had the billets to roll for a few months now and his rough guess is it will be ready in a few weeks in sheet or cut into bar.
No other Carpenter steels will be available from @nsm
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DeadboxHero said:
Z-tuff Just doesn't suit my taste with my current design, I just don't need the shock resistance, I want more strength for sub micron edges so they resist rolling better and more wear resistance to prevent blunting down in use. Nothing wrong with Z-tuff just not my jam for the laser stuff I make and like. In my experience, I found I could increase durability with thicker geometry and increase impact toughness by dropping carbide volume but it was always an inverse trade off to cutting ability with thicker geometry and wear resistance, strength traded for raw shock/impact toughness. So I got more out of going with higher hardness and carbides for what I like and do.
Preference is King.
I respect what Z-tuff/CD-1 is.
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No problem, it’s my preferred steel for my style of blades. If I want what you’re talking about, I’ll go with vanadis 4e or zwear. Those are my go to steels for a high wear blade with killer edge stability!
 
jdm61 said:
Is that because those steels are made by Carpenter, but carry a Zapp label?
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Nah, Carpenter has a specific way they want to distribute their steels marketed for knives so NSM doesn't sell them. The CD-1 is not categorized as their knife steel line so NSM is able to sell it. NSM rolls steels for a lot of the major steel companies but they are only allowed to distribute Crucible stuff directly. The exact reason why? Unknown, Give Carpenter and Bohler-Uddeholm an email and tell us.
 
From what I have seen of the "direct" pricing from Zapp, buying a sheet would make some sense for tomahawks and such. Otherwise, you would be spending crazy money for the steel if you bought "retail." Even at full sheet price with the "waste" being used for choppers, the price is still pretty steep, like over $100 for a hawk sized pice. But if would be like $200+ at retail price with no attempt to use the scrap IIRC.
rodriguez7 said:
Stock removal tomahawks. Or some choppers. I would like a sheet, so I can make me a compact hunters axe!
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jdm61 said:
From what I have seen of the "direct" pricing from Zapp, buying a sheet would make some sense for tomahawks and such. Otherwise, you would be spending crazy money for the steel if you bought "retail." Even at full sheet price with the "waste" being used for choppers, the price is still pretty steep, like over $100 for a hawk sized pice. But if would be like $200+ at retail price with no attempt to use the scrap IIRC.
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I could deal with 100$ for a hawk sized piece. Anything past that, and it’s not really worth it in my opinion.
 
It has been a few months, but I think that when I did those calculations, it was for hawks and knives with a sheet bought from Zapp and the hawks were no more than like $125 for the steel. The one problem with the knives was that you were going to get .275 thick blades no matter how big or small they were because that stock made the most sense for the hawks, so it was what I used for my model. Perhaps a bit of overkill for many knives. :D
 
jdm61 said:
It has been a few months, but I think that when I did those calculations, it was for hawks and knives with a sheet bought from Zapp and the hawks were no more than like $125 for the steel. The one problem with the knives was that you were going to get .275 thick blades no matter how big or small they were because that stock made the most sense for the hawks, so it was what I used for my model. Perhaps a bit of overkill for many knives. :D
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Maybe a little over kill, but you can thin out the edge enough where it’ll still cut good, but be durable as hell!
 
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