Fixed blades
- Thread starter shinyedges
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Come on now!!!!!! You can't go and post that beauty and not tell us ALL ABOUT IT.....
........Thanx in advance!!!!!!!
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Fair - its a kwaiken from Pariah Knives. Description from maker:Come on now!!!!!! You can't go and post that beauty and not tell us ALL ABOUT IT.....
Thanx in advance!!!!!!!
James Mayo
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How do you like Unbound Kinfe? I’ve always considered buying on of his blades. Missed a nice one in magnacut recently.I took a quick pic of most of my more EDC-able fixed blades for another thread. These are ones I do carry or would happily carry around town or in polite society. (In other words, ones that are friendly for concealed carry and not melting snowflakes at the grocery store.)
As I said over there, The Bradford Guardian 3.5 and Real Steel Pointman are the largest here and a bit more limited as a result, although the Pointman has seen a surprising amount of EDC carry for its size. A big part of that is the belt attachment, which can be quickly rotated and locked into place. So I can change from vertical to horizontal or a few cants in between within seconds.
Chronovore
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I have a few of his knives and he does a nice job. I don't have enough use on them to talk about heat treatment or edge retention but they seem good.
His leather sheaths are quite nice too. His Kydex is okay but at least on the one I have, it doesn't lock into the geometry of the knife with a "click" or click off with a thumb ramp as I like. It retains more based on lateral pressure against the Kydex, which is a lot less good in my experience. So for the one I have that uses Kydex, I'll probably get a better Kydex sheath made for it.
Much appreciated!!!!! Sweet blade!!
Barnacle-bill
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Horsewright
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Not one ya see on these pages every day. Hadn't made a roundknife in some years. I quit cause they wanna jump off the grinder and bite ya bad. This one cut me three times and that was before I sharpened it!
All of my roundknives cut out their own sheaths. Thats how I tell they are sharp enough.
All of my roundknives cut out their own sheaths. Thats how I tell they are sharp enough.
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I've used ulus to skin and remove the silver skin (the lining between meat that's tough to remove). They work well.Not one ya see on these pages every day. Hadn't made a roundknife in some years. I quit cause they wanna jump off the grinder and bite ya bad. This one cut me three times and that was before I sharpened it!
All of my roundknives cut out their own sheaths. Thats how I tell they are sharp enough.
I like yours.
SwissHeritageCo
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Not one ya see on these pages every day. Hadn't made a roundknife in some years. I quit cause they wanna jump off the grinder and bite ya bad. This one cut me three times and that was before I sharpened it!
All of my roundknives cut out their own sheaths. Thats how I tell they are sharp enough.
Beautiful! I really need to try one of those out, my old stanley is hard on the wrist when cutting through thick leather and really difficult to control around radial cuts.
Wild Willie
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I love me a good ulu...
Here's mine, made by David Mary. This is from last year's run of tallow rendering.
Horsewright
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I think round knives and Ulus are similar. The big difference is the angle of the handle with the ulu being horizontal and the roundknife being vertically handled. There is also a "hash knife" used in chuckwagons, very similar to an ulu.
Yeah the roundknife shines at its job, cutting leather, They've been used for centuries. I make mine out of .040 AEB-L stock and at 62-63 RC. I expect them to cut through heavy vegtan saddle leather in the 10-12 oz range in one pass. 10-12 oz Wicket and Craig here:
I have to use these Hydroma cutting boards for roudnknife work. The roundknives will get stuck in the roller mats on the bench top. I need them to cut the leather and skate on the cutting board not get stuck.
The advantage of the AEB-L is that it is so easy to touch up and bring it back to hair splitting. As soon as I feel it start to drag, a few licks on a strop, or in my more commercial setting, literally a couple seconds on a buffer and I'm back to stupid scary sharp that does the work I need. The stock was .040 before I started grinding on it to make this knife. Literally they are used daily and for hours at a time and maybe they see a stone every six months, maybe.
A roundknife allows you to see where you are going with the cut and as you mentioned much better for curves. Does take a lil to get use to the push cut but once you do ya wonder how ya ever got by with a utility knife. Think on this, in a pull cut ya see where ya've been, not where you are going.
I also make my own skiving knives:
They might be even sharper then the roundknives:
They are a chisel grind and used with the ground edge up.
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SwissHeritageCo
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I think round knives and Ulus are similar. The big difference is the angle of the handle with the ulu being horizontal and the roundknife being vertically handled. There is also a "hash knife" used in chuckwagons, very similar to an ulu.
Yeah the roundknife shines at its job, cutting leather, They've been used for centuries. I make mine out of .040 AEB-L stock and at 62-63 RC. I expect them to cut through heavy vegtan saddle leather in the 10-12 oz range in one pass. 10-12 oz Wicket and Craig here:
I have to use these Hydroma cutting boards for roudnknife work. The roundknives will get stuck in the roller mats on the bench top. I need them to cut the leather and skate on the cutting board not get stuck.
The advantage of the AEB-L is that it is so easy to touch up and bring it back to hair splitting. As soon as I feel it start to drag, a few licks on a strop, or in my more commercial setting, literally a couple seconds on a buffer and I'm back to stupid scary sharp that does the work I need. The stock was .040 before I started grinding on it to make this knife. Literally they are used daily and for hours at a time and maybe they see a stone every six months, maybe.
A roundknife allows you to see where you are going with the cut and as you mentioned much better for curves. Does take a lil to get use to the push cut but once you do ya wonder how ya ever got by with a utility knife. Think on this, in a pull cut ya see where ya've been, not where you are going.
I also make my own skiving knives:
They might be even sharper then the roundknives:
They are a chisel grind and used with the ground edge up.
Clearly a man of many talents, your posts are always inspiring and I appreciate you taking the time weigh in with a proper breakdown. The idea of cutting forward vs backward does sound appealing.
Not to derail the thread too much but if you were to suggest a "budget" round knife to test out, any idea where you would begin?
Horsewright
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Thank you sir for the kind words. I would probably recommend the Weaver Master Tool 4 7/8" one. Its just $20 more than the entry level ones from Osborne, which having had bout 10 of em years ago, I really wouldn't recommend
