You might want to extend the handle scales as far forward as possible. I think the AKTI standard is to measure from tip to scale, unless there is a very prominent guard. Better to bring the scales right up to the plunge line if you're trying to maximize blade length, so there is no question if someone wanted to make it an issue.
Look back at the first set of pics...I'm measuring it the right way (front of handle to tip). Right under 3 inches on purpose.
Question: Are you drilling the tangs at all, or relying only on the taper to reduce weight?
Both.
If the extra steel isn't needed for balance, I would think that it would be more effective to make the part around the guard thickest, and taper both towards the tip and to the butt. The handle scale reinforces the handle, so the part under the scale can be thinner.
Exactly what I have in mind. :thumbup:
In case I miss it: May I please request to be included in any passaround of these knives?
I wouldn't thin out the handles at the distal end though. I noticed on the Bushmasters that I really noticed the thinning of the handles there. I have big hands. If the thinning would have only been against my palm I probably wouldn't have noticed but my fingers have to close around the handle further than is really comfortable for me on the finger side of the handle.
Which part of the handle? the front part?
Yes, I'll reserve a spot for you when the passaround comes.
I think that v.1 and v.3 are my favorite of the three. not sure if i like 1 or 3 better!
very cool dan. i like them alot. what are the prices you think? if you have thought that far ahead. would like to know how much to save up
It ain't gonna be cheap.
The thicker steel and tapering will give the price a beating for sure. :foot:
But I'm not going for budget on this one...I'm going for "the right idea" first...cost second.
Have you ever seen the EKA Nordic Hunter knives for comparison purposes?
I like the feel of a substantial handle but do not want to carry something that size in my pocket. It's a tough trade-off.
Thanks...I'm stuck on the idea of a full size handle and making it pocketable if I can...in the 3" blade range.
Dan all of the designs work for me so far because they all share the same traits.
1. Large handles that fill the hand providing a secure grip.
2. Thick blade which even thought it is short in length still provides a ton of cutting power because of its mass.
You've got the right idea.
The handle material / liner combination on Version 1 is still the champ. Gorgeous looking knife. I like the subtle changes you have made to the handle shape. How is the balance on it???
The balance on these is all around the first pin. v.1 is right on it, v.2 and v.3 are just behind the pin.
I really like v.1. Definitely my favorite.
Why not offer more than one version? More knives in our pockets, and more money in yours.
:thumbup:
I'm considering it...but I want to achieve "the right idea" first...and then start some variations.
I took v.3 and put a swedge on it....what do you guys think?
Definitely makes a difference in the knife in terms of penetration. I started out first with just a striker tip...but decided it wasn't enough...both functionally and visually. Needed a full-out swedge. The top is not sharpenable...but is ground close enough it easily could be made into an edge...but that takes away from the EDC factor...and moves more into self-defense applications.
What I need is all-around performance with no compromises and no room for blade or handle failure whatsoever.
Comments, ideas and suggestions welcome!!!
Dan
