"How much blade and handle can you fit in a fixed blade EDC?"

[forager]

Spearpoint :thumbup:
Ebony handles, red liner, red mosaic pins

 

[Bigfattyt]

Great design. I love the full handled 3" blade edc. 1/4 inch blade width also gets two thumbs up for a SHTF kind of knife.
I would be down for a pass around/lotto for sure.

 

[Daniel Koster]

The spearpoint design has been cut out, drilled, ground and heat-treated....just need to finish up its temper and then I'll get it glued up today....hopefully finished tomorrow.


:thumbup:

Dan

 

[EIDO]

Dan,

I like how you lightened the handle of v2,but I still like the blade of v1...the swedge and that you didn't take the grind to the blade spine.


Jim

_________________

"Hold Fast"

Yeah, what he said.

 

[Daniel Koster]

This spear point is going all the way to the top...I'm considering a swedge...don't know yet...we'll see tomorrow.






SPXTrader - the knives show up yet?



Dan

 

[SPXTrader]

Not today, Dan. I'll check tomorrow...mail runs after 2 PM EST.

As soon as they get here, I'll let you know!

 

[FWO]

I would say personal preferences might leak in to this discussion a bit.
It is pretty much fine for 5160.
I would do it in 3/16 3V size it out to 8 1/4" a little more blade and handle. Handle is as important as the blade.
no need to taper a tang if you have a drill press. If you wish to keep weight down.
If it comes like it is there would be takers.
Use a heavy duty kydex with engineered ribs for rigid security .

FO

 

[samhain73]

I like the beefier blade of v1 just not the swedge.

I agree completely. :thumbup:

 

[Daniel Koster]

Let me get a few more prototypes worked out guys and then we'll have a poll for features....I'm definitely interested in what you guys think!

Dan

 

[Tohatchi NM]

I jumped in a bit late, but here goes:

- 2.5" is the legal limit for federal facilities. This includes the post office. I have specifically sought out a few fixed blades that fit this requirement. Still, 3" is a reasonable length for this project.

- First knife reminds me of a Marbles (I think it's the top swedge), version 2 reminds me of the Dozier Whittler. There's not a whole lot of logic in those comparisons, just my brain pattern matching.

- I like the full flat grind on v2. Full convex would be better.

- I'm not sure you gain a whole lot by taking a thick hunk of steel and tapering it so much, as in v2. The handle *should* be stronger than the naked blade, so you're creating a weak point at the blade/handle junction if you taper the spine like that. Just start with a thinner piece of steel, and grind as in v1.

- Yay spear point!

- The more this thing looks like a wide paring knife with guard, the better.

- Wood is probably more sheeple-friendly than micarta . Tan micarta is probably good. Maybe I'll get one in pink.

- Krein Hydra. Not that you should clone it, but it could be a point of inspiration. Fills a similar niche, albeit with a 3.5 finger handle.

 

[Daniel Koster]

I jumped in a bit late, but here goes:

- 2.5" is the legal limit for federal facilities. This includes the post office. I have specifically sought out a few fixed blades that fit this requirement. Still, 3" is a reasonable length for this project.

Yes...and the interesting thing is...at first glance, it does look like a knife with a 2.5" blade. I got that exact reaction from several different people - both knife knuts as well as sheeple. Innocuous, visually speaking.

- First knife reminds me of a Marbles (I think it's the top swedge), version 2 reminds me of the Dozier Whittler. There's not a whole lot of logic in those comparisons, just my brain pattern matching.

Interesting...will have to check those out.

- I like the full flat grind on v2. Full convex would be better.

Yes, I would do a convex version...but only on request...too many people don't understand how to use it right...whereas a flat grind w/ microbevel is a more standard offering.

- I'm not sure you gain a whole lot by taking a thick hunk of steel and tapering it so much, as in v2. The handle *should* be stronger than the naked blade, so you're creating a weak point at the blade/handle junction if you taper the spine like that. Just start with a thinner piece of steel, and grind as in v1.

You'll have to hold it to believe it. The point is not to make a knife thick just because...but rather to take a thick knife and trim it down and make it usable/carryable. There are other knives out there in this size range....the "built like a tank" ones are too heavy....the "3 finger handle" designs are too short (not enough handle).....the thin bladed ones are too delicate for hard use....and so on.

What I'm exploring here is the idea of removing all those restrictions I just listed above...making a knife with no compromises...other than the 3" blade restriction.

- Yay spear point!

Yes...I wasn't sure I'd like it at first...but it's definitely growing on me!

- The more this thing looks like a wide paring knife with guard, the better.

Will keep that in mind.

- Wood is probably more sheeple-friendly than micarta . Tan micarta is probably good. Maybe I'll get one in pink.

Agreed - wood is warm-n-friendly.

I would like to do one in red G10...just need to get some thick enough.

- Krein Hydra. Not that you should clone it, but it could be a point of inspiration. Fills a similar niche, albeit with a 3.5 finger handle.

Yes...it's hard to not notice all the Krein knives here in the shop ( :foot: )....personally, this one also seems to be inspired by Tom's PSK, Bushcraft and probably several others. I've talked to Tom about this one....asked him before I released it if he felt it was plagarizing his work...he was cool with it. BUT...that said, one BIG reason I went with the full flat grind on v.2 and v.3 is that it is more true to my style. I really like v.1 and I would not mind if Tom ever wanted to use it (not his way of doing things). But making the knife made me realize the reasons why I don't like to do them that way... :foot:....I just work differently...have a different eye for things. In a nutshell....v.1 is cool, but v.2 and v.3 are more my way of doing things at the grinder. (ie...I really like how the full flat grind echoes the K5 & K6 Kardas....knives that are a pleasure to grind).


Thanks for the itemized comments...I'm always happy to address questions and explain things...makes it easier for me too...kind of a sounding-board approach...get my ideas out in print to make sure I'm not nutz.


Dan

 

[Ktint]

I like the spear point and proto type also. I would take both design when available. IMHO, skeleton handle for those who want to put cord wrap or rubber grip should be option. Dan you are the man.

 

[Daniel Koster]

Spear point is finished!



Have a look:

Well...whatcha think?

Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

.......................

 

[SPXTrader]

Dan, the v.3 spear point looks great! The disgruntled postal worker delivered v.1 and v.2 today, and are safely in my grubby hands now. I'll give them a good workout over the next few days and make sure I post some pics of the two side by side with the review.

 

[Martin Swinkels]

Looks great Dan.
Personally I could do without the big coil .. but it's a very versatile knife anyway. I like the idea of having a full sized grip, no matter what the blade measures..
I'm a sucker for serrations on the spine. a rounded spine would be a nice touch also..

 

[Tohatchi NM]

Ooooohhhhh - I like the spearpoint. In my mind, this project is taking a full-sized handle, attaching a relatively small blade, and making the balance work. The spearpoint definitely does that - and looks a bit odd as a result. Doesn't have to look pretty to work good, though.

You might want to extend the handle scales as far forward as possible. I think the AKTI standard is to measure from tip to scale, unless there is a very prominent guard. Better to bring the scales right up to the plunge line if you're trying to maximize blade length, so there is no question if someone wanted to make it an issue.

Question: Are you drilling the tangs at all, or relying only on the taper to reduce weight?

Some comments to your comments of my comments:

Yes...and the interesting thing is...at first glance, it does look like a knife with a 2.5" blade. I got that exact reaction from several different people - both knife knuts as well as sheeple. Innocuous, visually speaking.

The full-sized handle definitely makes the blade look smaller.

You'll have to hold it to believe it. The point is not to make a knife thick just because...but rather to take a thick knife and trim it down and make it usable/carryable. There are other knives out there in this size range....the "built like a tank" ones are too heavy....the "3 finger handle" designs are too short (not enough handle).....the thin bladed ones are too delicate for hard use....and so on.

I'll explain a bit more. It looks like v2 is thickest at the blade/handle junction, and the steel past the micarta starts tapering immediately towards the tip. Maybe that's because you rounded the top corners a little bit on the blade, while the v1 corners are square. Maybe you need that thickness to get a balance point near the index finger. If the extra steel isn't needed for balance, I would think that it would be more effective to make the part around the guard thickest, and taper both towards the tip and to the butt. The handle scale reinforces the handle, so the part under the scale can be thinner. Sort of like your carbon fiber ultralight knife.

What I'm exploring here is the idea of removing all those restrictions I just listed above...making a knife with no compromises...other than the 3" blade restriction.

Will keep that in mind.

Regarding my paring knife comment - most paring knives have a full handle with a short blade. They also tend to have ergonomics that range from OK to good, since food prep often involves many, many cuts and the paring knife is often the knife of choice for intricate work. Your design is making the steel a bit thicker, but the basic principles should be the same so maybe you can learn things (good or bad) from a time-tested design. .

Yes...it's hard to not notice all the Krein knives here in the shop ( :foot: )....personally, this one also seems to be inspired by Tom's PSK, Bushcraft and probably several others. I've talked to Tom about this one....asked him before I released it if he felt it was plagarizing his work...he was cool with it. BUT...that said, one BIG reason I went with the full flat grind on v.2 and v.3 is that it is more true to my style. I really like v.1 and I would not mind if Tom ever wanted to use it (not his way of doing things). But making the knife made me realize the reasons why I don't like to do them that way... :foot:....I just work differently...have a different eye for things. In a nutshell....v.1 is cool, but v.2 and v.3 are more my way of doing things at the grinder. (ie...I really like how the full flat grind echoes the K5 & K6 Kardas....knives that are a pleasure to grind).

You and Tom both have your individual styles. Even if you two tried to copy each other's knives, the results would only echo the originals. Sometimes, comparison is a powerful tool for improvement. In my mind, I imagine you picking up the V1 in one hand, a Krein in the other, and going "that works better, this isn't as good, ..." I'm sure Bob Dozier's design aesthetic informed Tom's ability to make a knife that performs, even though their designs are very distinctive. No offense intended to your creative process. I know if your mark goes on it, it will be yours.

 

[WA Martin]

Wowza, Wowza, Wowza...

I'm on graveyards so I'll try to keep my eyes peeled. I like v.3 the best. I might like to see a penetrator tip on it but maybe not too.

In case I miss it: May I please request to be included in any passaround of these knives? I've got a foot of paperwork to go through at work and graveyards are already not conducive to keeping up on things like "find the new passaround thread".

But I would love to try these. I cant decide if I like the wood from v.3 or v.1 the best though.

I wouldn't thin out the handles at the distal end though. I noticed on the Bushmasters that I really noticed the thinning of the handles there. I have big hands. If the thinning would have only been against my palm I probably wouldn't have noticed but my fingers have to close around the handle further than is really comfortable for me on the finger side of the handle.

 

[offsetlover]

I think that v.1 and v.3 are my favorite of the three. not sure if i like 1 or 3 better!

very cool dan. i like them alot. what are the prices you think? if you have thought that far ahead. would like to know how much to save up

 

[trestle]

:thumbup: for v.3

That looks like a very useful knife; easy to carry and certain to not offend. I just found this thread, it has been very interesting to watch your thoughts evolve. Thank you for sharing.