you could always try cutting used carpet... that seems to dull edges real quick!
HH: Perhaps some don't also realize how crazy sharp 30-40g really is.
Nozh: I do not think that it is correct to say that 50g edge "twice sharper" then 100g edge.
For sharpness, value of absolute sharpness is practically not really possible to define, as towards 0g the scale would get hopelessly nonlinear, but in principle, it would be possible to use 0g as point of reference. Far more practical is it to use absolute bluntness as reference. My guess is that the thread, that Vassili is using, breaks at about 1.5kg (this corresponds to the strength of the polythread that I started testing on) on a completely unsharpened edge. So 30g is actually 2% bluntness while 40g represents 2.7% bluntness. This is a much more illustrative number, as shows, that both are bloody damn sharp with little difference between them. Now, after so-and-so many cuts the 30g blade dulls to 120g while the 40g blade dulls to 100g, or 8% and 6.7% of complete bluntness. So the first dulled by 6% while the second dulled by 4%....[B]a difference of wopping 2%[/B]!!!!!
).
also if the below from Hob is correct, then this thread cutting test although cool is not so informative until you have gotten out to several thousand cuts for many of the better steels, because of the fact the difference in sharpenss between 40-50-60-70, etc, is nothing.
Not that I am necessarily right, but yes, that's what I meant. Well, maybe not several thousand but a lot. You can see in Vassili's data that at 240 cuts all three blades are pretty much in the same ballpark. At 700 cut though there is clearly a significant difference between the INFI and the FF in comparison with the 420. This is why the suggestions of more abrasive media. But I totally agree with you and others, it completely changes the test. I mean, in the extreme you could cut drywall as abrasive media, but I think you would see a completely different dulling behavior. The only exception is if you are only interested in the loss of the super sharpness in the beginning. You see in that the super sharpness is lost pretty quickly on all blades.
I believe with rope cutting the blade grind is/can be a non factor if you do your cutting right at the end of the rope. The rope fibers fall away as they are cut and never really touch the blade grind. Nozh thanks for all the info your providing.
Well if you believe Wayne Goddard (knifemaker, writer, one of the main users of rope cutting for testing), FFD2 does outcut 10V...So ffd2 gives performance comparable to cpm10V or better maybe.
Well, looks like hardness and toughness are really the important factors for ropecutting. Not too surprising, since it would mean that deformation is the leading dulling factor.
I would agree about hardness, but toughness, I am not so sure. S7 is way beyond most steels in toughness and yet it does not hold an edge anywhere near as long as other steels, like D2, A2, 30V, etc. L6 is another example of this. Extreme toughness but low edge holding.
Good point. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with S7. I only know the testing numbers and usually edgeholding is measured on CATRA which uses a very abrasive medium so low edgeholding for S7 in those tests is no surprise and I don't have any personal experience. But my thinking was more along the lines, that on ropecutting you can never really eliminate some lateral force when the blade turns in your hand. I am sure Vassili's hurting wrist speaks volumes. So I would think an edge that is only hard but has very little toughness wouldn't last too long either, because it would chip out. So I would guess a hard edge with sufficient toughness would win out. Maybe this is part of the reason why the INFI blade fairs so well? But these were really only musings.