The restoration begins

Burke said:
You did a great job. Definitely a (in)famous knife and I’m glad it ended up somewhere fitting instead of disappearing.
Click to expand...

Thanks, and make no mistake, it is not retired. Anyone that hasn't used an original should really try it. Most SHBM's were in the 60-61 range(2 points higher than today) Unfortunately, these knives get bought and sold and due to value, many don't want to use them. Which is why you own at least two 😂 make one the safe queen and the other, the beating queen
 
Ironic said:
I agree and was taught to grind edge down by Jerry Hossom. But Cliff maintained grinding with the edge up contributed to less burr formation. He also believed grinding with the edge trailing (edge down) tended to load more heat into the edge and posed a greater risk of compromising the heat treat.
Click to expand...
Cliff's conclusion lines up very much with my experiences on higher speed powered belt or grinding wheel sharpeners in the 1725-3600'ish RPM range. Edge trailing wanted to heat that fragile structure very quickly, almost instantly in some thinner geometries. So extreme caution and a handy bucket of ice water were called for. These days I've transitioned to diamond hand plates & SiC sandpaper for finer polishing grits, so the overheating danger isn't a threat anymore.
 
Cobalt said:
Cliff is right about burr formation because you are pushing metal away from the apex of the edge. As for heat, thats more complicated. The heat is more a factor of the right grit type and amount of force. Biggest mistakes people make are starting with too fine a grit and pushing the blade too hard to remove metal, which creates a lot of heat. A coarse grit will remove more metal with little pressure and little heat regardless of which orientation the edge is on. All I need is a couple of passes with a coarse grit to set an edge angle. Then refine with higher grits. The secret to not heating up is to not old the edge on the belt longer than an easy steady pass. The risk of injury or damage is higher with edge up orientation.

To each his own.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the very pragmatic info/tips on power profiling edges. That explains some of the discoloration & temper removing I've inflicted on bladeware in the past. 😖
 
Cobalt said:
Pretty much finished for now. High satin/polish and a zero edge. The angle on the edge was near 9 to 10 dps, so I convexed it and transitioned it into the main profile.

ItALPhr.jpeg
Click to expand...
Stunning result and a job well done!!!
 
I certainly get the risk of overheating. My experience mirrors Cobalt’s as far as keeping the edge moving across the belt to avoid heat buildup, and for thin edges, a cool-down dunk between passes has worked well for me.
 
RokJok said:
Thank you for the very pragmatic info/tips on power profiling edges. That explains some of the discoloration & temper removing I've inflicted on bladeware in the past. 😖
Click to expand...

Ironic said:
I certainly get the risk of overheating. My experience mirrors Cobalt’s as far as keeping the edge moving across the belt to avoid heat buildup, and for thin edges, a cool-down dunk between passes has worked well for me.
Click to expand...

I don't care who it is. If you've been around sharpening knives long enough, you have likely burned an edge or two (or many in my case). Guaranteed Cliff had as well.
 
No doubt—in fact, that was a big part of Cliff’s learning process. “What happens if I do this…? What happens if I do it again?”
 
RokJok said:
Cliff's conclusion lines up very much with my experiences on higher speed powered belt or grinding wheel sharpeners in the 1725-3600'ish RPM range. Edge trailing wanted to heat that fragile structure very quickly, almost instantly in some thinner geometries. So extreme caution and a handy bucket of ice water were called for. These days I've transitioned to diamond hand plates & SiC sandpaper for finer polishing grits, so the overheating danger isn't a threat anymore.
Click to expand...

RokJok said:
Thank you for the very pragmatic info/tips on power profiling edges. That explains some of the discoloration & temper removing I've inflicted on bladeware in the past. 😖
Click to expand...
Funny, found the video where he grinds on this knife.
 
knife hunter said:
The satin with leather man sheath? Yes sir I did. I got pics to prove it. 😎🥃
Click to expand...
Lmao, my friend I had leatherman make me about 5 to 8 sheaths like that for shbms. I kept sime of the sheaths and sold some with knives. That knife came with an original sheath and I put it in. The knife is from Cliff. You should read more on here before commenting.

Just a little history. In the 90s cliff got that knife. I told him if he ever got rid of it to think of me. 6 years ago he spent a year trying to track me down. Finally a mutual acquaintance got a hold of me telling me Cliff was looking for me. I contacted him and he asked me if I still wanted the knife. I said of course and after some time of him having to take horse and buggy to the post office in new foundland, he sent me the knife. I even took pics of the box he shipped it in.

As for the sheaths. If you had an shbm that had one of those sheaths, then that knife was previously mine, as I was the first guy that dwayne made a multi point carry sheath, left or right handed, upright or horizontal carry with kydex in between the leather to stiffen the sheath up. I'll post picscof all the sheaths in a bit for your edification. The knife has only had two owners Cliff and me. That's it. You were likely not even into busse knives when I talked to cliff about this knife. I know you weren't on knife forums or recknives, both of which predate BF which was started in october of 1998
 
As promised, I found a pic from those days. There were a few more somewhere, but I may have sold them prior to this pic. To be clear most SHBM's came with a factory sheath, so the ones I sold with one of these sheaths is because the old sheath had gone missing at some pont.
yKsoQ8n.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top