Thickness of welt... (WIP) All done, bunch of pictures.

It looks a lot like some of the newer sheath studs they are carrying at The Leather Factory. They have at least a half dozen different sizes now, its real nice. May not be at all stores though.
 
Sorry about the delay, been a bit busy. I finished the stamping on the front of the sheath and I sewed the lining onto the top. Next is to turn the lining and glue it to the inside.

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John Frankl said:
Looking forward to more photos!

Could you also describe your drill/dremel set up in detail?

Thanks!
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It's a Proxxon Micromot IBS/E drill/grinder, with the drill stand that they make for it. I was planning on getting a Dremel, but I heard rumors that the Dremel drill stand is a bit plastic and flimsy and that the Dremel tool can be used only with that particular drill stand and no others, so I got the Proxxon to be sure. It works great, everything is made of steel or aluminum and it's steady as a rock.
 
My little Dremel press served me very well for several years and was retired only because I bought myself a large benchtop press. Not rickety by any means, action is smooth, and my stitching holes were straight. :)
 
Good lookin' sheat it will be.:thumbup: If I understood corectly you use proxxon for making stitching holes only, or for some other purpose?
 
Omega Leather Works said:
I, too, am curios about the dremel/rotary tool set-up. Also, where did you source the stud? That's a bit larger than I'm used to seeing, but then I've seen them made by the knifemaker, as well as folks using miniature (doll house or the like) drawer knobs.

Very clean so far. Looking forward to more pics. :)
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The stud was bought from Tandy Leather Factory. I wanted a big one, because I want to be able to stick the sheath in the belt with small risk of it sliding through.
 
leatherman said:
My little Dremel press served me very well for several years and was retired only because I bought myself a large benchtop press. Not rickety by any means, action is smooth, and my stitching holes were straight. :)
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I'm sure the Dremel works fine. The Proxxon is great too though and not that much more expensive, so I went with it.

Macan said:
Good lookin' sheat it will be. If I understood corectly you use proxxon for making stitching holes only, or for some other purpose?
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It's great for stitching holes. I'm also planning to use it for shaping the cocobolo for the handle of this knife. Other than that, I'm sure you can use it for many things. It seems that it's compatible with most of the Dremel bits also, so the selection of tools is pretty vast.
 
Dr Heelhook said:
I'm sure the Dremel works fine. The Proxxon is great too though and not that much more expensive, so I went with it.
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You did mention hearing that the Dremel press was plastic and flimsy and I dont want anyone looking at one to think that it was indeed that. Simply correcting bad info. No worries at all. :)
Macan said:
Does someone knows how to make studs?
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There are a few custom makers but the cost is rather prohibitive. Most of the leather craft providers have a good selection. Tandy has a few different sizes now as well. As Paul mentioned somewhere, the rivet back is far more secure than the screw back. You can also set that rivet back deeper in the leather using that nifty little anvil.
 
leatherman said:
There are a few custom makers but the cost is rather prohibitive. Most of the leather craft providers have a good selection. Tandy has a few different sizes now as well. As Paul mentioned somewhere, the rivet back is far more secure than the screw back. You can also set that rivet back deeper in the leather using that nifty little anvil.
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Thanks for info but I cannot order from the tandy now,(different reasons...).I have here some nickel like screwback but never saw here brass with rivet back.I will probably try to make from the brass rods.
 
leatherman said:
You did mention hearing that the Dremel press was plastic and flimsy and I dont want anyone looking at one to think that it was indeed that. Simply correcting bad info. No worries at all. :)
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Yes, just some silly rumor I heard from random youtubers.
 
I'm definitely going to check Tandys new stud stock. :) They haven't had them locally, but I'll check their website.

I use screw backs with a little blue loc-tite. I can't imagine them ever failing, but they seem to be good quality and made in Cali. I don't know if Paul has gone to them exclusively, but I'd like to hear a comparison. Without pliers they are impossible (for me) to remove). I do wish they were flat on the back but I think they are too thin on the circumference and need raised in the center to allow for the slot.
 
On the Sam Browne studs, they added black to the line up and they look very good, rivet back as well. I'm adding one in black to a new sheath this week, I'll see what it looks like with black on black. I hope its as nice as it sounds and doesn't look blingy. :p
 
I use the Weaver studs. They are screwback but flat on the back not rounded like the Tandy ones. They lie flater. I too use the locktite or even just a drop of Elmers. Never had one fail.
 
Nice thing about those newer/larger studs from Tandy is they are flat. Useless for straps, but look nice for frog or inside of belt carry. They have a classic look, I'll take a picture if I get home from errands quick enough.
 
Do y'all counter sink the studs?

Dwayne, do show. I like black on black btw. It's my most popular stud then bright followed by brass. Most of my customers want green, blue or red dye along with black and the black studs look more contemporary. If they want antique or something traditional they usually want bright or brass. :)
 
Gah! I knew there was something I forgot! I have the black one installed now. The others I can get a picture of as well.

You dont have to countersink the rivet style studs, They sink into the leather very well when installed with the nifty little anvil. The screwbacks on the other hand I usually dig it out a little. But honestly the lining does a good job keeping it off the blade if you dont want to do the digging.
 




Sam Browne, of course, in the center. The two on the outside are the biggest they offer. The nice thing about the new buttons is that they have a straight post. The cone shaped post of the Sam Browne studs can pose some issues with thicker straps that my customers not only prefer, they demand. Another nifty addition to their line up is the hole punches that include the relief so you dont have to worry over how long to make it by hand. Slipping has caused me more issues... Six different sizes makes it even nicer. Love the new studs! I'll be using quite a few in the new year.
 
Hey thanks Dwayne. Interesting point on the straight versus tapered shank. I never considered that.

I countersink the studs a little, but I agree, it's not really necessary with the lining. ;)
 
Argh! (?)

I might have a small problem on my hands. I made the turning of the lining, which went fine, but as I was gonna glue the lining to the inside, I realized that since the leather is pretty thick, despite the fact that I dug out the leather to level the screw on the inside, the "male" part of the screw stud ends up a bit shorter than I realized on the front of the sheath. Do you think it sticks out far enough to grab the stud properly or should I solve it some other way? Once I've glued the lining, there's no going back, so I have to make sure I get it right before I do that.

Closeups of the shortcoming:
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Picture of the binding of the lining from another angle. Turned out pretty all right, I think:
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