There are options if you want a Survive with a FFG; we have makers in here that do regrinds.
Modification will probably invalidate your warranty so use caution.
Every design includes compromises, and a saber grind is a pretty popular compromise for a field knife.
I'm kind of curious about the grind angle on the proposed scandi. I've measured angles on production scandi's between between 13° and 25°, and that range can make a pretty big difference.
A common design philosophy seems to be to use relatively thin stock and a relatively high grind angle.
That keeps the width behind the bevel down and reduces the amount of grinding required.
That should reduce the production costs because you aren't buying a lot of metal just to grind it away.
I looked for it, found Guy's posts from the 4.5 thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...raft-Knife-(GSO-4-5-)?p=15049351#post15049351
Even not being a scandi, with this thin blade and tiny little edge I plan on putting on this model, it will perform very well. The saber grind angle is right around 10 degrees of included angle, so it will slip through material very efficiently.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...raft-Knife-(GSO-4-5-)?p=15354386#post15354386
This blade has right around 10 degrees of included angle on the primary bevel, with a very thin cutting edge for easy slicing and a deep bite. Being such a thin blade overall, with a saber style grind and very thin cutting edge shoulder, I just thought it was best to stick with CPM-3V only. With a 4.5" blade, quite a bit of force can be leveraged on it and I imagine, even though it is a "bushcraft" design, that some people will do some light batoning work and rougher chores with it. My steel selection really just has to do with my personal expectations of the blade.
and my own posts
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...raft-Knife-(GSO-4-5-)?p=15355934#post15355934
On a blade of this thickness, leaving a mid-height grind increases strength and reduces how much the blade is likely to flex in use.
Keep in mind that the primary grind is indicated as 10-inclusive which is normal for most of Guy's knives. A lot of Mora knives are closer to 20-inclusive (10-dps) and the Mora "heavy-duty" I have is 30-inclusive. So depending on how thin the blade of the 4.5 is behind the edge (with microbevel closer to 30-inclusive), the GSO may be thinner in much of the blade than even those Moras and certainly thinner than Guy's "heavier" knives including the Necker. But this in FFG would be a good step toward a line of kitchen-blades
Change the blade shape to a modified wharncliffe or sheepsfoot, and you've got your paring/utility knife right there! But be nice to it, 3V ain't indestructible
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...raft-Knife-(GSO-4-5-)?p=15635956#post15635956
A quick diagram of bevel angles and mechanical advantage (slicing efficiency):
Keep in mind that the GSO-5.1 and others in the S!K line-up all feature primary bevels ~ 5-dps (10 inclusive). This new 4.5 features
the same primary bevel angle BUT
a much thinner edge if it is a zero-grind - the other knives feature a second "edge" bevel that is usually 15-20 dps (standard) and thickens the edge substantially for durability.
In comparison, a Mora Robust or "Heavy Duty" primary bevel is
27-inclusive and the standard Mora cutting edge is
20-23 inclusive, that is 10 degrees
per side.
http://www.moraofsweden.se/knife-care
Look at that diagram above again and understand how 5-dps and 10-dps compare in terms of "sliciness", i.e. mechanical advantage. Guy is crazy. :thumbup:
I know you posted a bunch there as well, Fancier, so none of this is new to you, but it might help some others discussing FFG vs the saber-grinds currently produced by S!K.
I get what's being said, a S!K paring-knife would be great, and Guy has discussed (in that thread the posts I linked are from) a line of kitchen blades which might include some such thing. *shrug* I look forward to it :thumbup:
In the meantime, I got this knife from maker Tim Johnson (timos- here on BF) - ~3.5" blade, 0.11" stock,
almost FFG, ~0.011 behind the edge, 60+ Rc AEB-L
What i will say is that 0.11" stock is rather thick for a kitchen knife, this is definitely built for harder outdoor use. The thing is, even though the grind on this blade is ~3 dps and the S!K blades are usually ~5 dps, the slicing performance
behind the edge isn't all that different up to the same stock thickness. The primary difference in cutting ability comes
up front wherein the wedge on the timos- blade fit easily inside that of the S!K blade. I reviewed a different blade from Tim here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...r-knives-and-a-TIMOS-handmade-knife-(feature)
In that review, i presented this schematic:
The primary-grind
angle on the Izula, CalyIII, and timos- are all about the same, as is the edge-
angle, but the slicing-ability is WORLDS APART because the
thickness behind the edge is so different (0.005 vs 0.015 vs 0.030). In the schematic above with Mechanical Advantage, remember that the mechanical advantage of FFG only comes into play AFTER the cut gets there - in front of that FFG is the EDGE with its thickness and angle. If there is a significant difference in the edge-thickness or angle, that could drown out any advantage the lower FFG angle might have vs a saber-grind.