1095 steel and rust

[flynt69]

Bluing causes a controlled black oxidation to the metal. Black iron oxides form a protective coating over the blade, and are noncorrosive. Red oxides are the vile ones that we all loath so very much, and are the actively corrosive variety. Black oxides guard against the red ones.

I had always heard the same thing but wasn't sure if it was correct.

 

[flynt69]

Bluing causes a controlled black oxidation to the metal. Black iron oxides form a protective coating over the blade, and are noncorrosive. Red oxides are the vile ones that we all loath so very much, and are the actively corrosive variety. Black oxides guard against the red ones.

I had always heard the same thing but wasn't sure if it was correct.

 

[alx21]

one of the products i use on my knives is a specials gun oil called militec 1, over time it penetrates the metal and forms a layer of protection, i just put some on my knive when i clean a gun it doesn't take more time and they will never rust

 

[Rotte]

I've used a product called T-9 Boeshield -- it's outstanding. It supposedly penetrates the metal and dries leaving a protective wax barrier (it's paraffin based). Who knows? I'll just say it seems to work really well. Of course like all protective coatings, it needs to be re-applied after heavy use.

 

[onado2000]

I read an article, I forgot which outdoor adventure magazine, waiting at my Mds office. The article went on about caring for camp equipment and stated that blood has 3 times the salt of salt water. It further stated people worry more about salt water/rust on their knives and are not so concerned about blood. I did not know this, thought it that was interesting & wanted to share this info with you all.

 

[warrigal]

So some of you guys have knives that sit still long enough to rust?
I don't get it!
Carl

 

[hannism]

Has anyone duracoated a RAT knife yet?

 

[kta2402]

Maybe send one to nutnfancy he seems to love duracoating

RAT Pack #75
KTA

 

[hannism]

Nutnfancy doesn't do a bad job of duracoating.

But, he pumps out so many videos that I doubt I would want to bother him.

 

[arijer]

well before I got my RAT knives, I used "high quality" "marine grade" saltwater knives for fishing and cutting bait. All made for marine stainless steel (what the hell is that). Even with care, they rusted fast.
My RAT knife RC-3 I just got has been on two trips and no issues, but of course I have given it love back at home. But it did take couple of days to get it after each trip and not a single issue. Cleaned up nice and perty. Super sharp knife. Love it.

 

[EricV]

From what I've seen "Marine" Stainless tends to be one of the 400 series steels, usually 420B, C, or J2.

My Rat gets wet almost everyday with freshwater from the CT river, I use Breakfree CLP once every week or two depending if it sees batoning or just normal use.

 

[Harp247]

whats the big deal?

 

[guncrazy72]

I have read that Rem oil is a good lubricant for knives. I have never used it on a knife before so I thought I would ask here. I am getting ready to buy a RAT knife so I am trying to find something good for a lubricant that I already own.

 

[HaroldB]

I have read that Rem oil is a good lubricant for knives. I have never used it on a knife before so I thought I would ask here. I am getting ready to buy a RAT knife so I am trying to find something good for a lubricant that I already own.

After cleaning and shining my knives with Flitz, I give them a coat with Rem-Oil. Been using it for years.:thumbup:

 

[PartialSerrations]

We have just received an email from a LEO saying the edge of their blade is rusting and there is also some minor rust forming around some of the laser engraving. We have discussed this before on the forums but I thought I would make a sticky thread out of it so everyone understands how to care for their 1095 carbon steel knife.

We treat every knife from the factory with a rust inhibitor but it doesn't stay on forever, especially if you are handling or using your knife with sweaty hands or using it in humid areas. While 1095 is a top choice for professional cutlery designed for hard use, it will rust and stain if not properly cared for - especially on the cutting edge and around the laser engraving since the engraving burns through the coating slightly. It is the user's responsibility to keep the blades properly lubricated and cleaned. We suggest using a dry film rust inhibitor such as TUF-GLIDE or TUF-CLOTH if you want your knife to stay pristine. Otherwise, do like we do and just use the knife and not worry about a little bit of rust since it does not hurt the blade in any manner, nor does a little bit of rust on the edge hurt you if you cut up food with your knife.

While we make every attempt to build a really good looking knife, the bottom line is we build "using" cutlery and that's the reason we like 1095. So, keep your knives clean with a rust inhibitor or be slobs like us and not worry about a little bit of staining

great post


:thumbup:

 

[A.L.]

I rarely put any oil on knives anymore since I've noticed that atleast in my region, there is not really need to. If the knife gets wet I just wipe in dry. All non-coated knives eventually get patina and dirt and I love that look actually.

 

[mainewoods]

Rotte, Boeshield where can you get it? thanks

 

[Jeff S1]

I've used a product called T-9 Boeshield -- it's outstanding. It supposedly penetrates the metal and dries leaving a protective wax barrier (it's paraffin based). Who knows? I'll just say it seems to work really well. Of course like all protective coatings, it needs to be re-applied after heavy use.

Rotte, glad to see you found this as well,worth every penny! I used it on my bike chains for years, great stuff.!

 

[G.E. Lee]

I get my Boeshield T-9 at West Marine or BoatersWorld, but you can get it online at:
http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-12-oz-Aerosol-P3C4.aspx?gclid=CKut5822iJwCFSUMDQod-1bPQA


I've never found anything as good and I been trying for 20 years. I don't think I'd waste any on a knife. The truth is that we have an embarrassment of riches these days where rust preventatives and lubricants are concerned. There must be 25 products that will work fine under all but the most rigorous circumstances--e.g. exposure to salt water, then putting up wet in a leather sheath...

I bought a Ruana 6BD skinner back in 1988 made from 1095. You wouldn't believe what that knife has been through. Once or twice a year I hit it with Flitz, maybe put a bit of A.G.'s rust preventative on it if it is going to sit on a shelf all summer, or maybe a touch of BreakFree. It's never had rust that I can see, but even if it did, it would take about 50 years of ignoring it to make a real difference in its usability.

My little old Schrade gut hook is about the same age, also 1095, and apart from a patina caused by all the blood and acids in animal fats, it works fine with just common sense care.

Use your head a bit, and a 1095 blade should be good for hard use for about 5 or 6 generations. My old man has got a 1095 blade that he's been using since 1945 for every thing under the sun and water. We live alongside Chesapeake Bay in the salt marshes. The whole family has been cutting up fish bait with that thing since the mid-1950s, not to mention digging with it, cutting up rubber and wires, whittling and wood carving, etc. All he's ever done is wash off the salt water with fresh and dry it.

It probably does have some rust on it, but it will still cut a deer's head off or split a sternum. What more could you ask of a knife?

Hell, for that matter, every animal that's walked in North America for the last 20,000 years could be dressed, skinned, and butchered with a piece of broken rock. Rust, Schmust...

 

[rkwallace]

What about CLP?