I want to add a little amplification to what John T. Jeffrey said about sharpening with the Lansky system. You should be able to use the 20 degree slot on almost any knife (but probably not the 17). The little "slot" on the end of the clamp is only for really small blades like a small pocket knife. On something like a 165 the clamp should be out on the blade more. The clamp needs to be positioned more towards the tip of the blade centered about 40% of the blade length back from the tip. This is not the linear center on most blades, but, it is actually the blade edge center because of the curvature of the blade. You want to make the same number of strokes on each side of the blade all through the process. You do NOT want to end up with a curl (called the "burr") on the edge of the blade when your'e done. However, it is imperative that you develop one during the use of each successive stone, this is the only way to know if you have completely re-set the blade edge angle. When you first notice the "burr" that is your sign that you have actually re-set the edge to your new angle. You should then move the "burr" back and forth from side to side a time or two to confirm that you have re-set the edge angle. Next, place the "burr" dead center so that you get the same drag both ways when pulling your thumb PERPINDICULARLY across the blade. As the knife gets sharper you may have to use very light, one directional strokes to center the "burr"; otherwide, you'll just keep moving it from side to side. Then you can move on to the next finer stone. Never go down to the next finer stone with the "burr" off to one side; you will pay hell getting it off with a finer stone. Most of the time with the ceramic stone and almost always with the Sapphire stone, you will need to use one directional strokes toward the blade edge. If you've done everything else right, by the time you get to these two stones, a backstroke will actually take the debris from your honing oil and dull your edge. If you really want a super sharp edge that will last; sharpen the knife at 20 degrees and then set the final bevel at 25 degrees with a very few strokes of the ceramic stone. For some reason, with carbon steel blades, particularly some of the Schrades, I have had more success putting the very final polish on the edge working freehand with a short piece of really fine ceramic rod that I have with the Sapphire Lansky stone. To really maximize the sharpness of your blade you need an edge tester. Razor Edge Systems is the only outfit I know of that makes one. They only run about $10.00 plus shipping. Buy several because every one of your buddys that sees yours in action will want one. They are used extensively in the meat industry at plants that are big enough to have seperate sharpening departments. It will allow you to feel every microscopic imperfection in the blade edge. When you take a hair popping sharp knife and then get that edge microscopically smooth it is amazing how sharp that knife really is. With mine, I can take off a large (75 lb.+) lambs head with a single effortless stoke. Hope that helps. Sorry to be so longwinded; but, the devil is really in the details when it comes to the difference between a really sharp knife and a really, really sharp knife.
