2013 Christma/Winter KITH Final Edit of Rules

Willie71

Warren J. Krywko
Joined
Feb 23, 2013
Messages
12,214
I have received a couple PMs regarding some of the history of the KITH, and will try to make this a great experience for everyone. I would like to be able to include as many people as possible, and make it fun and fair for people at different skill levels. To do this, I will have two categories (2rd added on request.) Instead of having people class themselves, I will make two categories of knives, that require different skill levels to complete. People can enter either or both as they please. There will be some ground rules, and minimum expectations so everyone will receive a serviceable knife.

The basic rules will be the same for both groups:

1. All steel must be a known steel. No recycled steel (excepting category 3), including tested reclaimed steels. We will not have any stress fractures or failures due to previous uses.

2. You must have some way of verifying your heat treat, or send it out for heat treat. No torch/magnet/goop quenching here. I would suggest a minimum of a 2 brick forge with a pyrometer to know what your temps are, or limit yourself to 1084 and templistix. The expectation in the intermediate and up group will be verifiable RC#, and an approved heat treat recipe for the beginner group (excepting category 3.)

3. Handle materials must be professional quality. No homemade micarta or the like. (Excepting category 3.)


OK, on to the two groups of knives.

GROUP 1: Mid to large blades (hunters,fighters,tomahawks, swords etc. Anything except the basic knives found in the small blades group. Sorry for not thinking about these additional types of items.

The first group is the Mid to large blades and up group. The minimums will be hidden tang, guard or integral (kehole accepted as well,) natural handle materials (stabilizing needed depending on the wood choice) which should be at minimum a mildly figured wood such as Black Walnut with a nice grain pattern or any exotic wood, horn or antler, bone etc. Do not use a plain piece of maple or oak from the local hardware. Blade length will be 5-7" tip to guard (if you want to make it larger, that is fine, I am just making suggestions to maintain equity.) For newer members, the guards should have no more than a hairline gap, and grinds should be at least "eyeball" even. There should be no left over sanding scratches, and there should be a verifiable Rc hardness. If you can't have it tested yourself or locally, send it out to a pro. If you want to see examples of knives of the caliber I am referring to, look in the exchange and see some of the hunters and small bowies for $300.00 and up. Daggers are fine. Sheath/display box/stand must be of reasonable quality. Tooled leather, burnished edges, boxes with no gaps etc. All folders except friction folders will be in this category, regardless of size. Folders do not require a sheath.

GROUP 2: Small knives.

The second group will be for those with less experience, time restrictions, or material/ equipment restrictions.This will be the Small knife group. The knives will be full tang, known steel, and professional handle materials. Micarta/G10/hardwood/stabilized wood or equivalent will be acceptable. Blade should be 3-4" long. Again known steels, and liners are optional. No paracord. Basic sheath is required and must be functional if not pretty. Friction folders will go here as well (No sheath needed on folders.)

Group 3: Scrap Steel/no restrictions (as per request.)

No restrictions on steel, or handle materials. No restrictions on heat treat quality. Run what ya brung!!! No expectations on sheath or case. Completely at your discretion.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



To enter, please PM me with your name, address, e-mail, if you are right or left handed and let me know which category you will be entered in. There is no obligation until the completion date, and the knife must be ready for shipping on 24 November 2013. The sheath can be completed in the week following, and the package must be in the mail with tracking by 01 December 2013. The delay is to verify right or left handed sheath, and accommodating that preference. Of course if you have a display box or stand handedness does not apply, and finish on your schedule. If you do not post a picture of the completed knife on the 24th of November, you will be removed from the list NO EXCEPTIONS!!!

Since we have a diverse group of makers here, I would like people to focus on the fact that they are giving a gift. You might not receive something of equal value to what you made, but each knife should be a personal best for the newer makers. I would ask that more experienced makers be willing to provide a constructive critique of the knife they receive as part of their "gift."

Post your category preference here, and PM me. You may enter both categories if you like. Lets take a lot of pictures, and show our progress. The timeline may be a bit tight, but we should all receive a package by Christmas with this timeline.


Here's the current list:

Group1: Mid to large sized and other blade type objects.
Willie1971
leifjl

Group 2: Small knives
Willie1971
NJJ
Quint (tentative)
Zcd
Weebus
Zaph1



Group 3: free for all:
Zcd
rwn2000
Salolan
 
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I'm in. I will do one in category 1 and 2.
 
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Sorry, double post.
 
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Sorry, but too many rules takes away from the fun. I think its to restrictive and sorry to say i won't be in. I was really looking forward to a kith this year.
 
Which rules do you have issue with? I would consider the basic HT and materials needed to prevent people from submitting a knife that is not really a knife. If there is a consensus amongst people to allow magnet temp control of HT in the beginner group, people have to accept they might get a knife that is not useable. I would be OK with that if everyone is willing to take that risk. I don't think anyone wants a used sawsall blade shank with a paracord wrap after putting the time into a nice EDC with quality materials. I really think there should be a minimum quality to prevent huge discrepancies in what is submitted. I wouldn't want someone to submit a damascus 10" bowie and get a scrap steel skeleton knife in return.

If the issue is with the styles of knives listed, we can discuss that. Most of what I see in Shop Talk is EDC's, hunters, skinners, and bowies, and I think all fit in the above categories.
 
Materials used should not be confused with quality. The rules dictate too much about the knife itself instead of the quality of the knife. If Nick Wheeler, Stacy or Don Hanson were to make a knife with recycled W2, HT it in a forge and put a paracord handle on it, it would be an awesome knife. I think the rules rely too much on the materials and processes (even dictating the grit of the finish) instead of the quality.
 
I think Nick or Don would know the steel they are using. At the JS or MS level, I would trust their judgement. The minimums are for people new at this to get a sense of what is involved. If you have been selling a combo with great reviews, post it, and it'll likely be OK. HT in a forge is fine, if you have the skill to do it and have some way to control temp. I'm sorry you feel this way, but I think I hit a pretty minimal expectation in the beginner category. I have never even given away a knife at the level in "beginner." What I am trying to address, is the concern others have expressed here and in other KITHS that there have been huge discrepancies in submissions, and in previous years knives have been moved from one level from another which caused some uproar. With this structure, a new member can try to make a knife that would be sellable in the exchange, get some feedback on how they did, and get a sense of where they are at. The skills and work in "intermediate" are about 4x more involved, and the sky is the limit. If you are new at this level, there are material expectations for a knife of this caliber, and it is a chance to see how you can pull one off. Quality of workmanship will vary greatly, and that is OK, because we all have greatly different experiences and skill. We are not selling here, but doing an exchange. I really look forward to having someone see one of my mid sized knives, and give me feedback (assuming anyone participates.) If someone really wants to do a hidden tang at the beginner level, that's OK. Its just to set a minimum standard.
 
Would people like me to add category three: scrap steel, no verifiable heat treat, anything goes? If even two people want it, I'll add it. Moose yard, can I assume you will be in with this category?
 
I cant make any promises because of my current situation but I will be in if I can get one done in time. Ill let ya know if I get it finished in time. Probably be beginner section since I am not up on hidden tangs all that well yet.
 
I understand where Moose is coming from but also understand where your coming from Willie which is why noone usually volunteers for the KITH leader ( I think). Its hard to set guidelines that everyone will agree with.
 
I understand that it can be frustrating to have a number of rules. I don't see any way around them though to make sure there is some equity in submissions. I want to stress I didn't put the rules in to discourage people, and skill level is the least of the concerns. If you do your best it is good enough!!!
 
"Blade length will be 5-7" tip to guard"

Personaly I think that is over the top. I´ve been in the 2009 and 2012 KITH both with a ~4" hunter
Both people that got my knife emailed me that they were very happy with what they got. They were good user knives and 3" to 4" make a good user.
I recieved a very handy 3" drop point knife with plain but good osaga scales that I use a lot (in Europe osaga is an exotic) and am very happy with. 2nd time I got a impressive liner lock knife that I am also very happy with.
I think the rules are a bit to restrictive.
I also understand that there should be rules to prefent disappointment and the left-right handed rule is a good one.
But if say Nick Wheeler or Bruce Bumb would make a 4" drop point hunter they shouldn´t be in the beginner class.
I think that the class should reflect more the skill used to make the knife, not size or material.
I think it is not correct to determen what gritt a blade should be finished to. Everybody can take a blade up to 2000gritt, but not everybody can make a clean 400gritt.

Do there have to be classes?
Just an idea I don´t even know if I like it but how about posting a pic of the finished knife and let the others vote if it is in or out?
(anonymous votes)
 
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I don't know that there has been an issue with knife quality in the past, so I'm not understanding the need for separate classes and requirements for the knife. The issue was having two KITHs in 2011, novice and regular, and one of the best knives in the novice class moved from that KITH and ending up going to the regular KITH. This set a bad precedent and should have never been allowed or encouraged. If an MS or JS want to enter a knife in the novice KITH to "give back" to the knifemaking world, let them. If a novice produces JS/MS quality work, great! That's completely in the spirit of a KITH. What's not in the spirit is saying "Oh, your knife is too good for the novices, enter it in ours so we can have a shot at it!"

Willie, I appreciate your effort on this. However, I would recommend closing this thread and opening a new one discussing what people want in a KITH. At the end of that thread you could open a new thread for the KITH. In the meantime, people who want to enter a KITH should be working on their entry regardless of the thread.

My opinion is that there should be only one class, knifemaker, and it should be open to all. There should be no requirements on what type or size of knife. A 3" framelock, 5" partoku, 7" bowie, all should be welcome. Even the Buck lockback with granite scales should be welcomed.
 
"Blade length will be 5-7" tip to guard"

Personaly I think that is over the top. I´ve been in the 2009 and 2012 KITH both with a ~4" hunter
Both people that got my knife emailed me that they were very happy with what they got. They were good user knives and 3" to 4" make a good user.
I recieved a very handy 3" drop point knife with plain but good osaga scales that I use a lot (in Europe osaga is an exotic) and am very happy with. 2nd time I got a impressive liner lock knife that I am also very happy with.
I think the rules are a bit to restrictive.
I also understand that there should be rules to prefent disappointment and the left-right handed rule is a good one.
But if say Nick Wheeler or Bruce Bumb would make a 4" drop point hunter they shouldn´t be in the beginner class.
I think that the class should reflect more the skill used to make the knife, not size or material.
I think it is not correct to determen what gritt a blade should be finished to. Everybody can take a blade up to 2000gritt, but not everybody can make a clean 400gritt.

Do there have to be classes?
Just an idea I don´t even know if I like it but how about posting a pic of the finished knife and let the others vote if it is in or out?
(anonymous votes)

I like that idea. I understand that there are issues with different levels of skill, and I think that is a good way of doing it. A maker with few skills may get upset if their knife is not allowed in, but it will give them something to shoot for in the next year. I think the key to it is for people to give the maker CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. Explain what it was about the knife that wasn't pleasing, maybe tell them how to prevent the problem in the future, or send them to a WIP video showing the proper way.
 
Willie, I appreciate your effort on this.

My opinion is that there should be only one class, knifemaker, and it should be open to all. There should be no requirements on what type or size of knife. A 3" framelock, 5" partoku, 7" bowie, all should be welcome. Even the Buck lockback with granite scales should be welcomed.

i agree with Zaph1

randy
 
I thought the name "beginner" might have left people with a negative connotation. Its simply for those who don't want to put the effort into an advanced knife, or who don't have the skill. People can enter one or all classes as they choose.

Hengelo, I see your point regarding the quality of finish. I have posted a few times that the quality is not the issue, if someone does the best they can. I know I cannot make a knife like wheeler, bump, or stacy, but I can make a decent hunter or bowie.

From the comments I have received, it seems that people have made and received knives that easily fit in these categories. You could do more if you want, as I noted a hidden tang in the beginner class, and you could do a 14" jeweled dagger in the intermediate and up class, but don't expect that from someone else. Make what you want to give. All this is meant to be is preventing someone from getting something that isn't a knife. For example looking at Vintagefan's knives, his grinds are so clean, he would be fine in either class. IF someone has something that isn't exactly like the rules, but equivalent (brut forge for example) that's fine, but those are advanced skills. Friction folders would go beginner, all other folders advanced.

I don't plan to take this down, but if the mods choose to, so be it. Currently we have 2 people in, and a maybe. If that's all it is, then that's all it is.

Upon reflection, how about a large knife and small knife class. I will remove the finish restrictions. Too many styles of finish that I didn't take into account.
 
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A couple of points.

1. I won't please everyone.
2. I don't like the idea of restrictions/minimums, but I have seen issues with every gift exchange where the best and worst make a mark on the exchange. There is always a suggestion in an exchange, such as $20.00, $100.00 or whatever. People go over and under causing problems. In a utopian world there would be no hard feelings, but we live in the real world.
3. Quality is too subjective to gauge. Judging quality causes hard feelings.
4. There was already a thread where people could post what they wanted. I received a couple PMs and that was it.
5. No one else offered to host it.

People can prove me wrong, and everyone can enter the third category. No restrictions. It's already there.
 
Hi Willie,

Obviously its impossible to please everyone, cudos to you for taking on this years KITH. However it plays out (I've seen the rules revised a couple times this morning), I would like to participate in Group 2 / Small Knives / Beginners group. PM to follow
 
I don't know that there has been an issue with knife quality in the past, so I'm not understanding the need for separate classes and requirements for the knife. .............
My opinion is that there should be only one class, knifemaker, and it should be open to all. There should be no requirements on what type or size of knife. A 3" framelock, 5" partoku, 7" bowie, all should be welcome. Even the Buck lockback with granite scales should be welcomed.

I totally agree.
 
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