I can’t help but to think of that stupid song... “it’s bananas! B-a-n-a-n-a-s!”Bananas!
I’m with you. I could’ve gone for the banana bone, but that (IMO silly) shield killed it for me. That’s OK, though. I need all the help I can get to keep my jittery trigger finger still every time I see a new knife.The rotten banana bone is very unique, but I that banana shield is not for me...different strokes
Bananas!
Mine measures in at a hair under 3 3/4”. The way it fits my hand and feels for me definitely isn’t big, but it’s not really too small either.I just got shipping notice for my unicorn today. Wow it looks small in that picture.
Yep, that's what mine looks like, too. Like random scrimshaw. I guess because the edges of the scales aren't as rounded off as other areas, some lines remain to trap the dirt. I haven't bothered to try, but maybe it would wash out with soapy water or mineral oil.I looked at mine under magnification today, and it does look like the black marks are polishing compound embedded in little micro cracks at the edges of the handles. There is even some imbedded in the edge by the liner that is only noticeable under magnification. I can live with it, but I think GEC should switch to a white compound in the future... it looks like the compound goes down in the acrylic cracks deep enough that it won't wear out easily...
White compound probably wouldn't make a difference, since it turns dark with swarf, at least it does when I use Flitz Polish. It's white from the tube, but after polishing metal, the rag turns dark.
Yep, that's what mine looks like, too. Like random scrimshaw. I guess because the edges of the scales aren't as rounded off as other areas, some lines remain to trap the dirt. I haven't bothered to try, but maybe it would wash out with soapy water or mineral oil.
White compound probably wouldn't make a difference, since it turns dark with swarf, at least it does when I use Flitz Polish. It's white from the tube, but after polishing metal, the rag turns dark.
Exactly right. When buffing, regardless of the color compound used, it will leave black residue that it has picked up from the buffing process. My guess is they use a white or green bar; as the grey/black bar usually still has a little cut to it. On these, either the material had an issue or they didn't get a completely smooth finish before buffing. You could get some high grit paper and knock it off then buff it back smooth (low rpm) in a couple minutes. If we never see this material again - we will know that it had chatter that wouldn't properly smooth off.
If I was you I’d find the highest grit sandpaper possible if I was to go about this at all. Woodturners who’ve tried our hands at acrylic can tell you it’s easy to scuff, hard to buff due to how apparent scratches are. The usual method is to buff up to 12000 for a mirror polish. It’s possible on a fast enough wheel to even get enough heat from friction to temporarily melt the surface and get your sanding medium caught in the surface (the adhesive of sandpaper gives out at high temperatures). If this was produced on a wheel it’s possible buffing compound got embedded in the acrylic. r8shell is 100% on that being used buffing compound. If you use a slip strop you’ll notice it gets black pretty quick.Yes... of course, you are both correct. I hadn't thought of the polish turning dark... I suppose if a person wanted to try to remove the marks, a fine file might do it? I might try it some day, but I'm happy with my knife the way it is.
I learn stuff here all the time...
Just when I thought I was going to sit out another run, all these pics weakened my resolve and BINGO, unicorn ordered
The black is indeed polishing compound. If mine shows any it will get hit with some 800 grit paper and rebuffed. Short of that, I have also found a clean cloth and a bit of rubbing alcohol does wonders to remove polishing compound.